2013 Ram 6.7 With Some Motor Issues

[SweetLou]

I hate the dealer but that is where I am headed for an electrical issue that makes my volume and switches not function. But, my concern is that I am getting poor mileage, I hear a lot of clattering, and just going down the road at 30 mph the truck is doing 1000 rpm so I switch it manual to get them up. Anything come to mind that I can do for a diagnostic so they don't go fishing and entering deeper into my wallet?

[Grit_dog]

Spectacular Lou!

[Cummins12V98]

SweetLou wrote:
Picked up my truck after repair and it runs good and solid. Must have been running in poor condition for awhile because I do notice better performance. My mileage so far is only slightly better but maybe that will increase with time. My switch module is nice also, so computer I am sure had to be reset so learning process for the truck before I can determine mileage.

Another "Happy Ending" on RV.NET :B

[SweetLou]

Picked up my truck after repair and it runs good and solid. Must have been running in poor condition for awhile because I do notice better performance. My mileage so far is only slightly better but maybe that will increase with time. My switch module is nice also, so computer I am sure had to be reset so learning process for the truck before I can determine mileage.

[Cummins12V98]

SweetLou wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Of course the actuator is a 2-3 hour job.

For someone who had done it before total time including running it to get the antifreeze back to full 3 hours max.

Awh, you forgot the special tool and time to calibrate it. Look, they are part of the food chain and thy gotta eat. Under normal circumstances and watching enough Youtube on how to do this, I could have done it. Would have taken a day, a fair amount of beer, some tunes, and a giant fan as it was so hot in the shop. However, things are not normal on many fronts, and as Grit says, shelves are emptying. Good news, maybe after we get a change in thinking in DC, we can stop getting made in China and made in USA, where people want to work, be innovative, and restock the shelves. I think you all get my drift and its very rough waters ahead. I feel sorry for the young folk that can't turn a wrench. My .02. Lets hope we don't into Mexico where they interchange Ford, Chevy, Dodge parts to keep **** running

The City Diesel Actuator does NOT require calibration. For the MOPAR Mechanic the calibration is a minimal step.

Nice you are getting it done at a reasonable price.

[Grit_dog]

SweetLou wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Of course the actuator is a 2-3 hour job.

For someone who had done it before total time including running it to get the antifreeze back to full 3 hours max.

Awh, you forgot the special tool and time to calibrate it. Look, they are part of the food chain and thy gotta eat. Under normal circumstances and watching enough Youtube on how to do this, I could have done it. Would have taken a day, a fair amount of beer, some tunes, and a giant fan as it was so hot in the shop. However, things are not normal on many fronts, and as Grit says, shelves are emptying. Good news, maybe after we get a change in thinking in DC, we can stop getting made in China and made in USA, where people want to work, be innovative, and restock the shelves. I think you all get my drift and its very rough waters ahead. I feel sorry for the young folk that can't turn a wrench. My .02. Lets hope we don't into Mexico where they interchange Ford, Chevy, Dodge parts to keep **** running

Ha, that's true, I was staring at mine this weekend while I did the manifold gaskets, but I have alot less things "in the way."
Glad you got a path forward, best of luck getting up n running quickly.
Suffice it to say I agree with the latter part of your statement as well, although I hope you're right about more 'Mericans wanting to work, because we're struggling now to find help in one of the higher paying blue collar industries (prevailing wage construction).

[cummins2014]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

cummins2014 wrote:

SweetLou wrote:
Ok, here is the diagnosis from the dealer. Code P00AF which they say is the actuator. Also, the electrical issue I have been having is the Switch Bank Module which controls all those buttons we turn on for TH, or EB. They have an actuator in stock (Mopar) obviously remanufactured, for $2200 installed. The switch bank module is $400 installed. I asked if the service manager can do more to get the cost down. He says he should be able to do so. Also, keep in mind the private shops I have been calling can't even look at the truck 2-3 weeks. It's a pickle and even if you go with Geno's whose part is backordered for two weeks, it's really a difference of how much from an independent shop vs dealer at this point. Truck also is in limp mode, plus more recourse at a dealer if something goes wrong. Might just go with the dealer on this one.

That’s good to hear on cost , sounds like a standard repair from Mopar @ $2200, same as mine . Sounds like the repair 12v got was a bit of a gouge at over 3k . Sounds like some dealers got their own idea of cost .

The breakdown for mine was about $1750 parts , $360 labor plus the taxes .

They showed me the list price, I guarantee Mopar did not pay them as much as what they showed me.

After hearing the quote from Lou, I would agree ,its a set price that Mopar pays , especially on warranty. I suppose you get a less then reputable dealer they could get you for more if its on your dime .. I had no idea what the cost would be until they gave me a quote.

[ShinerBock]

FishOnOne wrote:
One has to ask why Cummins/Holset can't fix this problem. This problem has been going on since the 6.7 was introduced.

They did come out with an updated actuator, but heat is the major culprit here. Back in 2007 when they came out with the 6.7L, it actually met the 2010+ emissions while the DMAX and PSD only met 2007. They did this so they did not have to spend money engineering the engine again to meet another round of emissions regulations. However, this caused a lot of issues with carbon build-up in EGR valves and the turbo because these systems were basically doing what the EGR and SCR do today.

This also caused a lot of heat which burns up the Cummins electronic actuator. The reason why they went with an electronic unit was that they needed to meet the aforementioned 2010+ emissions without an SCR and they needed better control of the air pulling through the EGR and heavy use of the EGR created more soot. Ford and GM did not use a fully electronic actuator until recently. GM with the L5P and Ford with the 2021 PSD so time will tell if they too have the same issues once the trucks get more miles on them.

Ford also had turbo/heat issues with the 2011-2014 trucks, but it was not related to the VG actuator.

[ShinerBock]

Grit dog wrote:
Did the dealer say their actuator was a reman? Or is that supposition?
Seems strange dealer would be putting reman parts in, but who knows. If it come with a warranty, it maybe the best option on all accounts.

This stuff is so frustrating I’m sure.

Cummins has reman. We sell it all of the time and the part numbers generally end in RX. They also have new parts but have a core attached to them with parts numbers ending in NX. The reason for a new part having a core is either because they don't want that part to get into the market so others can make reman versions or they plan to make reman versions later on once there are enough of them out.

[SweetLou]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Of course the actuator is a 2-3 hour job.

For someone who had done it before total time including running it to get the antifreeze back to full 3 hours max.

Awh, you forgot the special tool and time to calibrate it. Look, they are part of the food chain and thy gotta eat. Under normal circumstances and watching enough Youtube on how to do this, I could have done it. Would have taken a day, a fair amount of beer, some tunes, and a giant fan as it was so hot in the shop. However, things are not normal on many fronts, and as Grit says, shelves are emptying. Good news, maybe after we get a change in thinking in DC, we can stop getting made in China and made in USA, where people want to work, be innovative, and restock the shelves. I think you all get my drift and its very rough waters ahead. I feel sorry for the young folk that can't turn a wrench. My .02. Lets hope we don't into Mexico where they interchange Ford, Chevy, Dodge parts to keep **** running

[SweetLou]

Grit dog wrote:
Did the dealer say their actuator was a reman? Or is that supposition?
Seems strange dealer would be putting reman parts in, but who knows. If it come with a warranty, it maybe the best option on all accounts.

This stuff is so frustrating I’m sure.

You give them the core so it's like a car battery. They all are reman unless you go after market.

[Cummins12V98]

FishOnOne wrote:
One has to ask why Cummins/Holset can't fix this problem. This problem has been going on since the 6.7 was introduced.

I think they have fixed it with an upgraded part.

[Cummins12V98]

Grit dog wrote:
Of course the actuator is a 2-3 hour job.

For someone who had done it before total time including running it to get the antifreeze back to full 3 hours max.

[Cummins12V98]

cummins2014 wrote:

SweetLou wrote:
Ok, here is the diagnosis from the dealer. Code P00AF which they say is the actuator. Also, the electrical issue I have been having is the Switch Bank Module which controls all those buttons we turn on for TH, or EB. They have an actuator in stock (Mopar) obviously remanufactured, for $2200 installed. The switch bank module is $400 installed. I asked if the service manager can do more to get the cost down. He says he should be able to do so. Also, keep in mind the private shops I have been calling can't even look at the truck 2-3 weeks. It's a pickle and even if you go with Geno's whose part is backordered for two weeks, it's really a difference of how much from an independent shop vs dealer at this point. Truck also is in limp mode, plus more recourse at a dealer if something goes wrong. Might just go with the dealer on this one.

That’s good to hear on cost , sounds like a standard repair from Mopar @ $2200, same as mine . Sounds like the repair 12v got was a bit of a gouge at over 3k . Sounds like some dealers got their own idea of cost .

The breakdown for mine was about $1750 parts , $360 labor plus the taxes .

They showed me the list price, I guarantee Mopar did not pay them as much as what they showed me.

[Cummins12V98]

SweetLou wrote:
Ok, here is the diagnosis from the dealer. Code P00AF which they say is the actuator. Also, the electrical issue I have been having is the Switch Bank Module which controls all those buttons we turn on for TH, or EB. They have an actuator in stock (Mopar) obviously remanufactured, for $2200 installed. The switch bank module is $400 installed. I asked if the service manager can do more to get the cost down. He says he should be able to do so. Also, keep in mind the private shops I have been calling can't even look at the truck 2-3 weeks. It's a pickle and even if you go with Geno's whose part is backordered for two weeks, it's really a difference of how much from an independent shop vs dealer at this point. Truck also is in limp mode, plus more recourse at a dealer if something goes wrong. Might just go with the dealer on this one.

Reasonable price and a warranty to go along with it. Hope they can get it down a bit more, I would get er dun!!!