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2016 SRW GMC 3500 Denali HD vs. Ambition AB-38FB - Thoughts?

tama2112
Explorer
Explorer
Hi Everyone,
I'm about to pull the trigger on an Ambition 38FB. Wondering if my truck is up to the challenge?

My tow vehicle: 2016 GMC 3500 Denali HD. Here are the specs:

CREW CAB, STANDARD BOX, SRW, 4WD
Axle Ratio: 3.73
Max Towing Capacity: 17,200 lbs

Now for the Ambition AB-38FB. It has the 9,000 lbs axles. The GVWR is 21,460. Dry weight is "around" 16,000. Pin weight is 3,710.

Do you think the truck is capable of safely pulling this trailer with my family of 4 riding along?

Thanks!
53 REPLIES 53

tama2112
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Yesterday you had the SAME post.....and it was closed.

I have same opinion/advice as yesterday
LINK to yesterdays posting

----------------------------------------------------------------------

"I am pulling the trigger on an Ambition 38FB this week."

Pin weight is 3,710 DRY pin weight based on the 16,000 dry weight
Door Sticker: The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 3,594 lbs.
Tires: Max Load Single: 3,525 lbs
Total tire capacity rear axle----7050#


Dry pin weight is Already exceeding your 'payload capacity' and you haven't even put a toothbrush in trailer.....let alone passengers, stuff, hitch in truck!
Rear tires good for 7050#......dry pin of 5vr is 3710# and truck rear axle curb weight is likely close to 3000#. Dry pin and curb rear axle=6710#, Tire capacity just about max'd and still haven't put any passengers, stuff, hitch in truck OR added anything to trailer



I won't likely have more than 18,000 pounds total for weekend camping.
Max Towing Capacity: 17,200 lbs

Exceeding max tow rating and you haven't taken in account for passengers, stuff and hitch yet.
Every pound of weight added to truck reduces max towing (GCVWR minus truck weight=max tow weight)



Just not a good towing combo.....too much trailer weight
18,000# using 22.2% (% used for dry weights) is 4000# wet pin weight

Truck Rear Tires overloaded (swap to new rims/tires 19.5")
Truck RAWR overloaded (truck mfg. rating lower then Axle Mfgs rating)
Trucks GVWR overloaded (not a big issue)
Trucks GCVWR overloaded (should not be exceeded)


Air bags do NOT increase any ratings...tow, payload or GVWR. Just add ability to level rear end sagging
19.5" tires/rims do NOT increase any ratings.....tow, payload or GVWR. Will add ability to carry more weight on rear tires so their load capacity is not exceeded. Does Not change/increase trucks ratings


Your 17,200# MAX Tow rating is for a Base trim level, 150# driver and 20# cargo.......EVERYTHING in truck decreases that capability pound for pound (options, accessories, passengers, backpacks, bags, stuff in door pockets, stuff under seats, stuff on seats, pets, stuff in bed etc)


I actually deleted this current thread and started a new one with the new 5th wheel info/specs. But it looks like an administrator closed that post and reopened this one!

RoyJ
Explorer
Explorer
tama2112 wrote:
On the contrary, I've been researching wheels and tires a lot the past two days. But several folks have stated that my truck isn't safe for this job, and that I should be looking at DRW. Trading in the truck will cost more than wheels and tires so I am absolutely interested in spending $4k-$5k.


One question you have to ask yourself is - are you willing to sacrifice the ride quality going to 19.5 commercial tires that run between 90 to 110 psi?

Since you bought a Denali, I figured you value luxury and aesthetics. Going to 19.5s may destroy the former, and 18s the latter.

But if that doesn't bother you, then wheel / tire swap is definitely an option. If you go with 19.5s, get a G load rated 225/70r19.5, this allows your gearing to remain similar to factory, and have 4000 lbs / tire. But, you HAVE to maintain 110 psi under full load.

RoyJ
Explorer
Explorer
Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote:
So then you buy a set of take offs from a vehicle specific site with tires and wheels and use them for towing. But what makes think 20" wheels are not rated for the same? According to Tire Rack 20" have the same load rating as the 18" which is the stock wheel for his truck.

Don


I'm not saying the stock 20"s are rated less than stock 18"s, I'm saying the 20"s won't handle 4080 lbs. Not saying the STOCK 18"s would either, but there must be some 18" out there than can.

The OP would have to look at his wheel to know for sure.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
tama2112 wrote:
GeoBoy wrote:
I believe what you want to hear is, "oh yeah you can tow that". You can do all the what ifs you want, the bottom line is after you spend all this money is your family and the people around you going to be SAFE?


I'm really just trying to understand why my truck isn't safe but a dually is. It would be different if I were driving a 2500. The only difference in my truck and a dually are the wheels/ tires. Right? So I just don't understand why replacing the wheels / tires doesn't do the trick. Why does everyone keep saying to buy a 3500 dually?

Of course I want my family and the people around me to be safe.. that's a given..


Two 'E' rated tires with a 3400# load rating equals 6800# of capacity
Four of the same 'E' rated tires with 2700# load rating (dually) equals 10800# of capacity (4000# more)

You don't have to buy a dually..but you should reconsider buying a LESS heavy 5th wheel.
One that is more in line with what your SRW truck can actually handle in the real world vs the magical marketing world of truck mfgs.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Yesterday you had the SAME post.....and it was closed.

I have same opinion/advice as yesterday
LINK to yesterdays posting

----------------------------------------------------------------------

"I am pulling the trigger on an Ambition 38FB this week."

Pin weight is 3,710 DRY pin weight based on the 16,000 dry weight
Door Sticker: The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 3,594 lbs.
Tires: Max Load Single: 3,525 lbs
Total tire capacity rear axle----7050#


Dry pin weight is Already exceeding your 'payload capacity' and you haven't even put a toothbrush in trailer.....let alone passengers, stuff, hitch in truck!
Rear tires good for 7050#......dry pin of 5vr is 3710# and truck rear axle curb weight is likely close to 3000#. Dry pin and curb rear axle=6710#, Tire capacity just about max'd and still haven't put any passengers, stuff, hitch in truck OR added anything to trailer



I won't likely have more than 18,000 pounds total for weekend camping.
Max Towing Capacity: 17,200 lbs

Exceeding max tow rating and you haven't taken in account for passengers, stuff and hitch yet.
Every pound of weight added to truck reduces max towing (GCVWR minus truck weight=max tow weight)



Just not a good towing combo.....too much trailer weight
18,000# using 22.2% (% used for dry weights) is 4000# wet pin weight

Truck Rear Tires overloaded (swap to new rims/tires 19.5")
Truck RAWR overloaded (truck mfg. rating lower then Axle Mfgs rating)
Trucks GVWR overloaded (not a big issue)
Trucks GCVWR overloaded (should not be exceeded)


Air bags do NOT increase any ratings...tow, payload or GVWR. Just add ability to level rear end sagging
19.5" tires/rims do NOT increase any ratings.....tow, payload or GVWR. Will add ability to carry more weight on rear tires so their load capacity is not exceeded. Does Not change/increase trucks ratings


Your 17,200# MAX Tow rating is for a Base trim level, 150# driver and 20# cargo.......EVERYTHING in truck decreases that capability pound for pound (options, accessories, passengers, backpacks, bags, stuff in door pockets, stuff under seats, stuff on seats, pets, stuff in bed etc)
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

tama2112
Explorer
Explorer
kzspree320 wrote:
A number of people have agreed it would work if, in addition to airbags, you use 19.5" wheels and tires rated high enough. I think that's the only way you can gain enough wheel and tire capacity. It would probably cost $4-5K or so to do this. Only way I would feel safe with any SRW. I just don't think you want to hear and adequately research the leads you have been given. I'm checking out of this thread.


On the contrary, I've been researching wheels and tires a lot the past two days. But several folks have stated that my truck isn't safe for this job, and that I should be looking at DRW. Trading in the truck will cost more than wheels and tires so I am absolutely interested in spending $4k-$5k.

kzspree320
Explorer
Explorer
A number of people have agreed it would work if, in addition to airbags, you use 19.5" wheels and tires rated high enough. I think that's the only way you can gain enough wheel and tire capacity. It would probably cost $4-5K or so to do this. Only way I would feel safe with any SRW. I just don't think you want to hear and adequately research the leads you have been given. I'm checking out of this thread.

tama2112
Explorer
Explorer
GeoBoy wrote:
I believe what you want to hear is, "oh yeah you can tow that". You can do all the what ifs you want, the bottom line is after you spend all this money is your family and the people around you going to be SAFE?


I'm really just trying to understand why my truck isn't safe but a dually is. It would be different if I were driving a 2500. The only difference in my truck and a dually are the wheels/ tires. Right? So I just don't understand why replacing the wheels / tires doesn't do the trick. Why does everyone keep saying to buy a 3500 dually?

Of course I want my family and the people around me to be safe.. that's a given..

GeoBoy
Explorer
Explorer
I believe what you want to hear is, "oh yeah you can tow that". You can do all the what ifs you want, the bottom line is after you spend all this money is your family and the people around you going to be SAFE?

Perrysburg_Dodg
Explorer
Explorer
So then you buy a set of take offs from a vehicle specific site with tires and wheels and use them for towing. But what makes think 20" wheels are not rated for the same? According to Tire Rack 20" have the same load rating as the 18" which is the stock wheel for his truck.

Don
2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab SWB 4X4 Ecodiesel GDE Tune.

RoyJ
Explorer
Explorer
kzspree320 wrote:
Don't assume your wheels/rims are rated to support more tire capacity. Often they are not. Look on the back of the wheel at the rating before you select any high capacity tires.


Was just about to say the same thing.

More likely than not, 20" wheels are NOT design for high payload.

kzspree320
Explorer
Explorer
Don't assume your wheels/rims are rated to support more tire capacity. Often they are not. Look on the back of the wheel at the rating before you select any high capacity tires.

Me_Again
Explorer III
Explorer III
I checked on 19.5 rims and tires. There are a few down sides. Limited choice, getting the correct offset, and the fact that the Mag/Aluminum wheels available do not allow for running reduced inflation(below 75 lbs I believe) while not loaded, do to the type of bead used. This leads to a harsh ride empty. Would be ok with a dedicated TV, not good for a daily driving.
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

tama2112
Explorer
Explorer
RoyJ wrote:
tama2112 wrote:
Hi all, just updated my post. Hoping to get some feedback from the experts. Thanks!


Are you willing to change out the wheel and tires to high capacity ones? 19.5s, or at say, LT295/70R18s that are rated at 4080 lbs.

Like everyone else have been saying, stock, your truck will be rear axle weight limited, especially seeing you've gone up in pin weight.

Most SRW 1 tons have plenty of axle capacity, it's the single tires that's the limiting factor. The axles are identical to DRW versions in most cases.


Thanks for your post. This brings up an interesting question. Technically, the only difference between my truck and a dually is an extra set of tires in the back, correct? So it's really not the axle or the rims that are lacking. It's the tires, right? Wouldn't it make sense that if I exchanged for some G or H rated tires that would solve the problem?