2018 Ram Dually and Arctic Fox 990

[towpro]

I first had a 2015 Ram 3500 Dually tradesman 4wd Cummins when I got my 990. I have run the 2015 across the scales and including tong weight of 7x14 trailer (motorcycle inside) and 1/2 tank of water, food for almost a week and the wife and I sitting in the truck: I saw 13920 lbs

Before I even loaded the camper in the 2015 I put the heavy Big Wig sway bar on it based on what it did for me on my 2006 SRW Ram I sold when I bought my 2015.

The 2015 would ride level, but always had some sway caused by corning and in fact even going straight on the roads we have around here in PA.

I tried Energy Suspension poly blocks on the upper over load springs. these raised the truck 1" in the back loaded. This helped remove even more sway. But these blocks were crushed pretty far by the weight of the 990 and they were not going to survive. I did run these 60,000 miles on my 2006 Ram SRW 3500 but that was towing a 5er, and some time spent carrying a Wolf Creek 840 which is lighter.

This year I decided to trade in the 2015 and custom order a 2018 Ram with the options I wanted. Dually, Cummins, Aisin, Laramie, 2wd with 3:73 gears. Took a couple months and the truck came in. First thing I did was move my sway bar to new truck.

Loading camper with same load above (accept the couple hundred lbs of tong weight) I found the truck was riding perfectly level but it still has some sway all the time.

I thought I would try air bags, but everything I read, have seen, and found out by calling the manufactures the air bags will make the truck ride higher in the back loaded, plus dealing with air. I know myself, I will always be screwing with air pressure.

I was not interested in using those bump stops that carry load as I also run this truck empty some off season.

I did not want to go with blocks on the upper over load springs as they also still come into play empty.

So I tried the Torklift lower stable overloads. I installed them last night. My truck was a no drill application. Install was simple, but be sure to read the whole directions, including the last couple pages as it explains the little locator bolts that stop the bracket from spinning on the spring. My springs are wide enough that using 2 bolts would not allow the plate to sit flush on the spring.

Since the camper was already on truck, basically I just disconnected my fast guns, lifted camper straight up to take the load off the truck and installed lower stable loads without moving the truck.
I installed all 3 stable load wedges on every corner.

Before height with camper loaded was 37" from ground to rear fender lip centered on hubcap.
Installed height with camper loaded was 37.5" from ground at same location. Great, still basically riding level enough that if I ever find a level campsite I still don't need blocks :).

Now the test ride:
Pulling out of the driveway I immediately can feel the difference, The truck feels solid. I live in SE PA out in the farm land where the roads are never level. The roads seem to follow the contour of the land which causes side to side sway as the truck leans one side to other following road. I can no longer feel this sway. I also notice I tend to not need to steer the truck to make it go straight on these roads.
I don't know if it rides any rougher on bumps but definitely a difference in side to side sway. Keep in mind its still a dually with over 4000lbs sitting up high in the bed and will never ride like a passenger car, but the Torklift lower Stableloads made a nice difference. I would recommend them to anyone.

and another nice part is when I unload the camper I can just pull a pin, use a 3/8" ratchet with extension and disengage the Stableloads.
I think I can do this through the wheel well but I did not try.

Could the lower stable loads be a 100% solution? I do not know, and I am not willing to pull my sway bar to experiment :).
But knowing what I have experienced, if I was prepping my truck again for a pickup camper I might try the lower Stableloads first, than add the sway bar if needed.

it will be a couple weeks until our next trip, but that is when the Wife decides how much they help with the ride:). I will report back here findings.

[towpro]

nope. I have a 2006 Jeep liberty (I bought this to flat tow behind the truck/camper to the beach for sand). A 2018 Ford Escape (wife) and a 2011 Ford Escape. camper comes off truck late November/early December and truck goes in heated/dehumidified garage for the winter :).

[mellow]

Why 2wd? Figured you would want 4wd for snow up your way.

[burningman]

I don’t think anyone with a late model diesel pickup and camper needs the low diff gears... maybe if you’re also pulling a really heavy trailer.
If I didn’t have the Gear Vendors overdrive unit on mine I’d regear it from 4.10 to 3.54.

[towpro]

FireGuard wrote:
Good info.

Curious to see how you like the 3:73 gears for a TC application?
I’ve got my eye on a 18 Laramie/Aisin but it has the 3:42 gears. Probably ok for a TC and towing light, but not sure if 4:10 would be better.

my 2006 had the G56, which has the wrong Overdrive ratio in 6th. I think it was doing 2200 RPM @ 70mph.
I can't get the gear ratio chart to work but I think my 3:73 are around 400-500 RPM less than my 4:10's were in the 2015.
The power difference on paper between the 2 truck more than makes up for the difference in RPM. I think I am doing around 1 to 2 better MPG when running at higher speeds. Is this because of the ratio? or because of the lack of 4wd? or the fact last truck has factory AT tires on it when new truck has highway rib style?

in live in Central PA area and travel the coast a lot, so its mostly rolling hills. downshifting is not a problem. and the 1st gear is low in the Aisin so no problems pulling out my 14% grade driveway.

[billyray50]

towpro wrote:
Yes, there is a thin round rubber bumper that has a tail that sticks in spring hole.

Thanks Towpro. Saw the rubber bumper on the lower spring. Time to spend more money! Ordering them tomorrow!

[TxGearhead]

If you want to see how it rides without a sway bar, just back off the 2 nuts on one side of the sway bar hangars. I did the drivers side...backed off (up) about 1.500". Helps a good bit on unloaded ride quality. I haven't done it with the camper on.
3.73 is working good for me. I had 3.42 (only choice) on the 2016 SRW 3500 and it worked pretty good.

[towpro]

Yes, there is a thin round rubber bumper that has a tail that sticks in spring hole.

[billyray50]

Hey Towpro, Thanks for pointing out that our truck was no drill application for lowers stableloads. I traded in my 2015 Ram 3500 DRW longhorn Laramie for a 2017 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie CTD 4x4 and did not even notice the lower spring is pre drilled. Was there a rubber stopper in there before install? As you can see my trucks lower is compressed with TC loaded with 2/3s water in tank.

[Grit_dog]

Lower Stable loads and sway bar both control body roll to some extent and of course the stable loads add/engage some spring capacity or higher spring rate with less sag.
I started with airbags. Then sway bar. Then lower stable loads (homemade, but same function).
Each addition helped in its own way and sway bar and stable loads both help the body roll of a camper.
I'll say though, you have about the stoutest ride possible for a camper that size already. But if I had a new truck dually or srw, swa bar and bottom spring wedges would be the primary mods, no questions asked.

[FireGuard]

Good info.
I had a 17 3500 SRW SB with a Lance 865. Probably 2500-3000 lbs loaded and used the lower stable loads. After a 5000 mi trip I think it handled very well because of the Stable Loads. I also had a Big Wig but didn’t install it.
I’m planning on going back to a DRW Ram and 9-10’ TC like a Lance 981 or AF 990.
Curious to see how you like the 3:73 gears for a TC application?
I’ve got my eye on a 18 Laramie/Aisin but it has the 3:42 gears. Probably ok for a TC and towing light, but not sure if 4:10 would be better.

[MrPhelps]

Great info! Thanks!!