6.7L CAC hose rupture..beware!

[nremtp143]

NOTE! Not trying to start a brand war of who's truck is better! Just pointing out a potential problem here!
I am posting to let you guys that have 6.7L Fords know of a problem that can leave you on the side of the road, but it is a VERY EASY fix that takes less than 5 minutes. The CAC(Cold side intake pipe) hose that comes from just inside the driver's side battery up to the throttle body can be prone to failure. A new CAC hose can be bought for around $100 shipped from the net. This CAC hose will rupture under high boost situations and the engine loses all boost pressure and you coast to the side of the road. The hose is plastic and will weaken after many heat cycles of the engine and the end at the throttle body will come apart. I carried a spare hose as a friend's left him on the side of the road just outside NYC during rush hour traffic.(because of his, i bought a spare) Mine let go weekend before last on I-85 just NE of ATL running 65mph with 22K miles on the truck. If you carry a spare, you only need a 3/8" ratchet, 10" extension and a 7/16" deep well socket and a pair of leather gloves to make the swap. The gloves are for the heat. Loosen the 7/16" spring clamp on the bottom of the hose at the charge air cooler(down beside driver's side battery) and slide the hose off. Then pull the large round spring clip from the other end at throttle body. Even when destroyed, this clip should still there. Pull off any remaining parts and wipe off the throttle body inlet to get the oil off of it. Disconnect the boost gauge wires on the side of the tube with it's quick connect. Then reverse the procedure on the install. If you have a new pipe, the throttle body end just clicks into place. You can actually be back on the road in less than 10 minutes.
IF you want to upgrade to get away from the plastic connection, both AFE and H&S Motorsports have pipes aluminum/stainless pipes that will alleviate this problem.
H&S Motorsports
AFE CAC Tube
Yep, they are expensive, but they also DO NOT require programming and bolt on to stock trucks. Thankfully, I had a spare intake tube after my friend's incident as I didn't want to be stranded somewhere with a problem I can fix in 5-10 minutes. It was a 94* day when mine let loose with my family and pets in the truck. I've just ordered the H&S for mine.
Just posted so 6.7L Ford owners will know of a potential failure that could leave them stranded.

[agesilaus]

RedRocket204 wrote:

agesilaus wrote:
The H&S kit deletes the air intake valve and requires the use of an aftermarket tuner to compensate for that.

Are you certain you are looking at the correct H&S Cold Side kit? H & S -
11-16 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke Absolute Performance Cold Side Pipe Kit, stock2017+ Ford 6.7 Powe...


The linked Cold Side kit for the 11-16 6.7L Powerstroke says no tuning required.


OK the Rudy's kit is out of stock indefinitely. I was looking at the H&S kit link in the first post of this series. But I've found the ones you are referring too now. The silicone hose kit is also out of stock. Neither the H&S nor the AFM kits seem like the simple 10 minute swap out people have described here, reading the instructions shows a somewhat complex evolution including relocation of the PS fluid reservoir.


The Rudy's kit I put on only replaces the actual tubing, reuses the sensor, o-ring and clip. No tuning required on that kit. Rudy's Diesel - Cold Side Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Kit For 2011-2016 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel 6....


EDIT: I see taken was quicker to respond with same info.

[taken]

agesilaus wrote:
Post a link to that H&S kit please because the link in the first post of this thread has this in it:

"Note: This product MUST be used in conjunction with a tuning device that allows for removal of the throttle body and electronics, otherwise you WILL have a check engine light."

I searched the H&S site and found their OEM kit which is just a silicone tube with and adapter. I'd rather buy the AFM kit which is stainless steel than spend $255 for a rubber tube. Why should we assume that would be any more enduring than the OEM tubing?

A couple things. It's not a rubber tube like the OE one. It's silicone. Secondly, it's not the tube that fails. It's the plastic slip collar that goes over the intake. On the H&S, that collar is billet aluminum.

Below are all OE style that don't delete the throttle body or require tuning. The older style kit for the 11-16 requires the PS res to be moved with a new bracket and is a multi section kit like the AFE. The new style is just like the 17+ kits.

11-16 Older Style Kit

11-16 New Style Kit

2017+ Kit

[RedRocket204]

agesilaus wrote:
The H&S kit deletes the air intake valve and requires the use of an aftermarket tuner to compensate for that.

Are you certain you are looking at the correct H&S Cold Side kit? H & S -
11-16 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke Absolute Performance Cold Side Pipe Kit, stock2017+ Ford 6.7 Powe...


The linked Cold Side kit for the 11-16 6.7L Powerstroke says no tuning required.

The Rudy's kit I put on only replaces the actual tubing, reuses the sensor, o-ring and clip. No tuning required on that kit. Rudy's Diesel - Cold Side Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Kit For 2011-2016 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel 6....


EDIT: I see taken was quicker to respond with same info.

[agesilaus]

Post a link to that H&S kit please because the link in the first post of this thread has this in it:

"Note: This product MUST be used in conjunction with a tuning device that allows for removal of the throttle body and electronics, otherwise you WILL have a check engine light."

I searched the H&S site and found their OEM kit which is just a silicone tube with and adapter. I'd rather buy the AFM kit which is stainless steel than spend $255 for a rubber tube. Why should we assume that would be any more enduring than the OEM tubing?

[taken]

agesilaus wrote:
KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BUYING

Maybe this has been brought up before, I re-read the beginning of this thread and didn't see it mentioned.

OK I guess I'm going to order one of these. BUT buyer beware! The H&S kit deletes the air intake valve and requires the use of an aftermarket tuner to compensate for that. Apparently the AFE kit uses the OEM connectors and maintains the valve.

I've searched around and found a couple of other brands but except for the AFE they all seem to delete that valve. So read the fine print before buying.

No, that's not the H&S kit we are talking about in this thread. The H&S kit that that is being referred to here is a direct OE replacement that doesn't delete the throttle body and requires no tuning. There is a version that deletes the throttle body and requires tuning but I don't know anyone running one or see the advantage.

Here's a link to the H&S page with all their different CAC kits. You will find the stock replacement style in two styles for 11-16 and one for 17+ trucks. None require tuning. H&S CAC Tubes

[agesilaus]

KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BUYING

Maybe this has been brought up before, I re-read the beginning of this thread and didn't see it mentioned.

OK I guess I'm going to order one of these. BUT buyer beware! The H&S kit deletes the air intake valve and requires the use of an aftermarket tuner to compensate for that. Apparently the AFE kit uses the OEM connectors and maintains the valve.

I've searched around and found a couple of other brands but except for the AFE they all seem to delete that valve. So read the fine print before buying.

[taken]

There is no upper clamp on the Ford 6.7 OE hose where the failure happens. It's a slip collar with a snap ring.

[Cummins12V98]

Turbo hose clamps are to be tightened as part of your maintenance no matter the brand.

As far as being in KOMIFORNIA, simply have the desired part mailed to someone outside that State and mail to you and install it. Very unlikely anyone is going to notice it during an inspection.

[RedRocket204]

taken wrote:
There have been a few threads about this issue on FTE. I think mine might have been the first.

Cold Side Tube Thread

Yes indeed. "Lucky you"??? 😉

A big thank you to you and the others who forged the way for many to hopefully avoid the pipe blowout issue. I don't tow nearly as heavy as many of you but am towing mountain grades all the time when towing my fairly heavy TT with 850lbs ATV in the bed. Just thought gong with an aftermarket pipe was good insurance even though it took me a year to get around to getting it installed.


Quick Cliff's Notes on an aftermarket install from those FTE threads:

• Small screwdriver to pop the clip up.
  
• If your kit didn't come with the o-ring, you'll need to reuse it from the OEM pipe.
  
• Do not dry fit the aftermarket pipe expecting to install it that way. Instead, start at both sides installing and meet in the middle with the aluminum 90 degree pipe.
  
• Use Windex to help fit the pipes together when installing, makes a huge difference.
  
• If you need to disassemble a clamp to get it on there after the pipe section was installed, you can use something like channel locks to hold it together while you get the spring, washer and nut on.
  
• When installing the sensor, make sure the retaining tab is situated correctly so when you rotate the sensor 90 degrees, the tab goes over the ramp and then settles in, locked in place.
  
• Give yourself up to two hours to complete the job however, easy to complete in an hour or just over.

[mowermech]

I had a similar occurrence years ago, driving a Dodge Ram 3500 CTD, towing a 32 foot fiver, on I-15 along the Virgin River where the freeway cuts through a corner of Arizona. The flex boot on the bottom of the intercooler slipped out of the clamp and blew off. I put it back (nothing was torn or broken), tightened the clamp, and a couple hundred miles later it happened again.
After the third time, I took the clamp, straightened it out on a block of wood, and dimpled it with a center punch so the inside surface looked sorta like a cheese grater. After that, it never slipped again.
Then, a couple years ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD, equipped with a boost gauge. It never showed more than 10 PSI. I thought the gauge was bad, because the engine ran just fine. One day, while checking something else, I found that the same clamp I had trouble with on the '94 was loose, but the connector hadn't blown off. I reinstalled and tightened the clamp, and the boost gauge showed normal pressure. In fact, it showed over pressure. Some previous owner had disconnected the waste gate actuator feed hose, and plugged the port!
As much as I like to pick on Fords, when it comes to boost pipes they aren't the only ones with problems!

[taken]

Dave5143 wrote:
Forgive my ignorance of all things turbo but is the CAC pipe the same as an intercooler pipe? I see what appears to be the H&S silcone pipe upgrade on Amazon and it looks like the OEM part referenced earlier.

As RedRocket said, it is indeed the cold side intercooler tube. There have been a few threads about this issue on FTE. I think mine might have been the first.

Cold Side Tube Thread

Mishimoto, H&S, Rudy's, and AFE all make replacement tubes. On the 11-16 trucks, the difference between brands is some need the PS res spaced over and some don't require that. (I see H&S now offers two styles for this gen.) Either way, it's an easy install. I'm not sure if all 4 brands make them for the 17+ trucks yet but that one is an even easier install. Ford actually redesigned the pipe on the 17+ trucks but let the plastic collar that slips over the intake inlet untouched so the potential for blowing them on a 17+ is the same as the previous gen...

[taken]

mrw8i wrote:

taken wrote:
mrw8i, it's a 10 minute swap. Run the H&S for 2 years and swap it out for each inspection to potentially save your turbo.

I see H&S has two versions, an aluminum with two silicone connectors and 3 clamps and now an all silicone pipe with 2 clamps. Which are you using? I'm leaning towards the all silicone for ease of installation.

For a while there was only the single one piece silicone kit for the 17+ and the 11-16 needed the old style kit. It would appear that they now have the 17+ style for the 11-16 too so yes, I would recommend going that route. It's even easier to install and doesn't appear to require the PS res relocate bracket like the older style kit did.

[RedRocket204]

Dave5143 wrote:
Forgive my ignorance of all things turbo but is the CAC pipe the same as an intercooler pipe? I see what appears to be the H&S silcone pipe upgrade on Amazon and it looks like the OEM part referenced earlier.

It's the cold side intercooler pipe - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1492371-popped-the-hot-side-intercooler-tube.html

Thread says hot side as the title but if you read in a few posts it is corrected.

Coincidentally, I replaced mine yesterday with a Rudy's version aftermarket pipe I bought a year ago but never go around to replacing it until yesterday. Fairly easy replacement and all the info you need is in the FTE thread.

[Dave5143]

Forgive my ignorance of all things turbo but is the CAC pipe the same as an intercooler pipe? I see what appears to be the H&S silcone pipe upgrade on Amazon and it looks like the OEM part referenced earlier.

[mrw8i]

taken wrote:
mrw8i, it's a 10 minute swap. Run the H&S for 2 years and swap it out for each inspection to potentially save your turbo.

I see H&S has two versions, an aluminum with two silicone connectors and 3 clamps and now an all silicone pipe with 2 clamps. Which are you using? I'm leaning towards the all silicone for ease of installation.