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99 Suburban 1500 5.7

TrueBlueKC
Explorer
Explorer
Before I buy a new TV I figured I'd post some numbers and see what you all think. We were looking at trailers and found one we like a lot. The Keystone passport 23RB. At first it seemed like it would be too much for my burb but I'm not sure.

TV is 99 Suburban 4x4 5.7L with a 3.73 axle.
6000# trailer rating
7300# GVWR
4000# RAWR
base payload is 2000#
Wheelbase is 131.5"
I can't find the GCWR anywhere.

The trailer is 26'3" long and 11' high
Dry wt. is 4760#
Dry hitch wt. 565#
CCC is 2053#

My 'burban has plenty of life left with 150,000 miles and I'd hate to trade her in just yet, but I will if I have to.
17 Ram 2500 6.4L
28 REPLIES 28

TrueBlueKC
Explorer
Explorer
MARK VANDERBENT wrote:
I have had that same truck towing many miles with an even heavier camper and five in our family plus dog. I now have an 07 5.3 with 373 rear end. The 350 has less hp but touch more torque. I towed in 3rd gear only and had no issues even in mountains. I did put e rated tires on her which made her ride harder but much less rear wiggle.


That doesn't surprise me really. It's been a great SUV for us. We tent camped out of it for 9 years and pulled our pop-up many thousands of miles over the last 7 years. That costly OEM fuel pump is my only complaint.
17 Ram 2500 6.4L

TrueBlueKC
Explorer
Explorer
Driving the 'burb today and lost power, had to have it towed. Distributor cap was fried. I take it as a sign. :B

We could absorb two payments but we are going to hold off on that trailer and focus on the TV and start saving for a bigger down payment as I want a heavy duty pick-up truck and they are expensive.

Soooo....as far as trucks from this decade, are there any model year/engines I should stay away from? This truck will be used for towing and for winter driving mostly with the occasional hauling of wood etc. And I'm open to Ford or Dodge, too. I'm not one of those guys.

Would one of these be sufficient enough? It's 2WD but that is a good price compared to what I've seen.
17 Ram 2500 6.4L

MARK_VANDERBENT
Explorer
Explorer
I have had that same truck towing many miles with an even heavier camper and five in our family plus dog. I now have an 07 5.3 with 373 rear end. The 350 has less hp but touch more torque. I towed in 3rd gear only and had no issues even in mountains. I did put e rated tires on her which made her ride harder but much less rear wiggle.

TrueBlueKC
Explorer
Explorer
Grit dog wrote:
Ymmv, but I towed 6-7klb trailers all over the country with the gmt400 half ton trucks, what you have. Still are on the top of my list of reliable bomb proof trucks.
You'll need to help the rear suspension, reccomend trailer brakes of course and the chassi will handle it fine. Power wise, no where near any of the new V8s but everyone used it in 1999 no problem. It'll struggle in the hills but otherwise capable chassi if you are prudent in your decisions.
Now if you load the Burb down with 4 screamin kids, 500lbs of luggage, trailer full of everything but another kitchen sink I'd say you don't have enough truck. Also towing heavy will not be friendly to a 250kmi old auto trans. Keep it cool!
Bottom line, you're right on the edge of what your vehicle will be happy towing.
Problem is, you don't want to sink a bunch of upgrades into your old whip just to sell it after the first trip.
I'd reccomend if you're an experienced wrench and experienced towing, go for it. If you're not that guy, I'd go bigger and newer for peace of mind and factor of safety.


Thanks. It seems my first instinct is right. We are experienced campers and could load light and make it work but I would rather have plenty of truck. I think I'm just too attached to that old thing and I was trying to talk myself out of trading it.
17 Ram 2500 6.4L

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
J2807 will help...just a bit, as there are many, many wiggle spots for
the OEM marketing folks to play...my guess after decades in dealing with
specifications and regulatory agencies...and my internal marketing folks

Not automotive, but industrial controls for military/black-badge/gov/commercial/people-movers/etc

All spelled out in the fine print, and not just in one spot, but everywhere
where there are ratings.

Most just want a label to tell them everything. Most do NOT take the
time and effort to go out and actually weigh their whole setup.

The labels are getting better, but I still adhere to weighing it...especially
if you have after market stuff...plus whatever you load in/on the TV

My GMC 1996 Suburan K3500 SLT is listed by the OEM to Calif DMV as
5,250 lbs curb and at the local garden scales just under 7,200 lbs with
me (180), toolbox (+200lbs) and misc stuff.

But folks still believe theirs weighs in at curb. The current door
label listing cargo or payload is pretty accurate. A fellow member
used to work for one of the OEMs and owned that label process. Said
it is computer generated via each option listed. Must be accurate as
it is part of the shipping info (billing by weight)

{edit} pic of my sub

mysub mysuburban K3500Sub
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

TrueBlueKC
Explorer
Explorer
BenK wrote:
Thunderbolt wrote:

Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.



Easy and most folks derived it the same way...why always advise to
go out and actually weigh it, axle by axle, fully loaded ready to
go camping. Not just the newbies asking for help, but senior advisors
here also don't understand that concept of curb being the basis for
most all the ratings

Take the OP's 7,300 GVWR minus it's curb of around 5,300 and you get
approx 2,000 of cargo/payload/etc...only if he has a curb weight
TV...Curb is the stripper with no options, other than the towing option
and one 150lb driver. Some OEMs use full up fluids (fuel) and some
a partial tankful

Below is a quote from another thread on this with more detail of my
Suburban and get: 3,350 lb cargo/payload over curb

Ditto folks referencing the MTWR...correct, as that is what the OEMs
all publish, but fine print says used a 'curb' vehicle...

This OP will most likely find that his actually weighs in around 6.5K
fully loaded. If each seat belt filled with 200 pounders...it will push
it to around 7K or more

Agree that this trailer will be at the hairy edge or more and suggest
consideration of 4.1's for the diff(s). The 5.7L is capable, but way
down in HP compared to today's ICE's.

Take a look at the below GCWR chart from GM and notice the tow rating
between the 3.73 and 4.1 for the 5.7L



BenK wrote:
GCWR is fairly new rating and not listed widely, yet. Also note that many DO NOT
consider GCWR matters, so not many will have that info here on these
forums

Gotta grab these charts from the OEM the year they publish them...as they remove
them the next model/gen...as it is a source of liability for them it something
goes south (all OEMs has something go south sooner or later). This is the brochure
spec you need to get a hold of

GCWR GCWRchart

Generally, it is the curb weight + tow option + one 150lb driver + hitch + MTWR

Factored by components on the TV. Like the diff ratio, etc...also note that aftermarket
stuff like over sized tires, lift kit, etc, etc

Here is an old thread on this using my Suburban as an example


Help Understanding How Factories Detemine Truck Weights
BenK wrote:
This comes up all the time...and most who have not gone through this
before...go away to not talk about this again...deny and argue...or
some actually understand how this works-especially those who went
out and actually weighed their TV

Pure marketing with some reality sprinkled in...meaning how else can
the OEMs do this and still be competitive with the public who believes
the marketing data as gospel...AKA "King of the Hill" or "mine is
bigger than yours"

Reality, as how else can they provide a manageable level of rows/columns/etc

Meaning if they listed every option on a row with a column for the
various ratings.

Like a row for 4x4 and columns for MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

Then a row for 4x4 & AC and columns for MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

Then a row for 4x4 & AC & power seats/windows/locks and columns for
MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

and so on, and so on, and so on...betcha that would be dozens of sheets
and even more confusing than what we have now...where they define or
put into context with the fine print




This is my Suburban, as I've actually weighed it at a county weights
and measure certified (their sticker for that year) to be accurate
enough for commerce (sell by weight and charge money for that weight)

That 5,250 Lb CURB is on the California DMV data base and is provided
by GM, the OEM of my GMC Suburban. Against the VIN number.

These Calif SMOG test reports are official state documents and are
also legal documents that I'd use if I need to prove anything about
the data on my SMOG test/registration/etc

Have noodled what options I'd have to unbolt, cut out, etc in order
to get my Suburban down to the listed 'curb'...There wouldn't be any
carpet, sound insulation, 4x4, AC, automatic, etc, etc, etc

"Test Weight" is the 'curb' weight, not the actual...again, have
actually weighed it at a county weights and measure certified scale
at my local garden center

BenK wrote:
My Suburban GMT400/1996 was before the weight stickers on the the newer
TVs door...

So here are my numbers:

5,250 curb
8,600 GVWR

3,350 lb cargo/payload over curb


My 2014 smog certificate...note that this is an official state
document and the info supplied by each OEM for that VIN...
mysub mysuburban mysubsmog mysmog

mysubGVWR mysubdoor mysubdoorlable doorlabel subdoorlable


Mine weighs in around 7,200 at the local garden scales, county
weights&measure certified, with me (180) and toolbox (+200) and misc stuff (+50)

Also has full up option package, SLT, 4x4, big block, and over sized
wheels and tires

8,600 minus
7,200

1,400 lbs cargo/payload

All with a 6,000 RGAWR...that AAM rates at 10,000 GAWR. The 6K GAWR
GM lists is around 2,000 more than most 'half ton' TVs

Oh...also ordered the F60 option...which is the 1 ton front snow plow prep package
My FGAWR is 4,250 and near most half ton's rear GAWR.



And here is the glove box RPO code label listing every option that
my Sub left the factory with...plus I've added lots of stuff...how
many pages would the matrix listing each and each combo of options
take to list MTWR, GCWR, etc...


mysubrpo suburbanrpo mysuburbanrpo



{edit}...here is my 1980 Siliverado C10 Big Ten (1500HD of it's era)
and note the 'curb' vs GVWR

Ditto what would I have to unbolt/cut-out/etc to get it down to 'curb'


mytrucksmog mysilveradosmog trucksmog silveradosmog



Actual weight at the dumps...me (180), nephew (180), bed cap (~250),
over sized tires/wheels, tools, extra coolant, extra oil, etc, etc

This scale also had the county weights and measure certified sticker



mytruckweight truckweight silveradoweight truckdumpweight


vs it's door ratings label


mytruckdoorlabel truckdoorlabel mytruckgvwr truckgvwr




This one addresses diff ratio and how it affects MTWR/GCWR

changing gear ratio? myth?


Wow! So much input. Much appreciated! I'm really learning a lot about ratings and how they come up with them. My question to you is will the new J2807 standard change the game?
17 Ram 2500 6.4L

TrueBlueKC
Explorer
Explorer
Thunderbolt wrote:
Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.

TrueBlueKC wrote:
Before I buy a new TV I figured I'd post some numbers and see what you all think. We were looking at trailers and found one we like a lot. The Keystone passport 23RB. At first it seemed like it would be too much for my burb but I'm not sure.

TV is 99 Suburban 4x4 5.7L with a 3.73 axle.
6000# trailer rating
7300# GVWR
4000# RAWR
base payload is 2000#
Wheelbase is 131.5"
I can't find the GCWR anywhere.

The trailer is 26'3" long and 11' high
Dry wt. is 4760#
Dry hitch wt. 565#
CCC is 2053#

My 'burban has plenty of life left with 150,000 miles and I'd hate to trade her in just yet, but I will if I have to.


Well to be honest I was told that was my payload when I bought it a long long time ago. And I googled it.:D

Help me understand this... My hitch reads 10,000# with 1000# max tongue when using weight distribution so I thought that was OK. I also didn't think a 4700# trailer would way anywhere near 6800# loaded. Wouldn't that mean I would need 2100 lbs. of cargo and propane? Should I be adding the dry wt. plus the ccc and assume that number is what I'll actually be towing?

I'm clearly new but at least I'm learning rather than just hitch and go.
17 Ram 2500 6.4L

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Edit...that GCWR chart is for the GM 2000 or 2001 family of trucks...the 1999 will
be a bit less

Have the direct link to GM's specifications for 1999, but they took it down...all
OEMs take their spec pages down after a while...my guess misconception of applicability
to whichever era folks are trying find ratings for...like this thread
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Ymmv, but I towed 6-7klb trailers all over the country with the gmt400 half ton trucks, what you have. Still are on the top of my list of reliable bomb proof trucks.
You'll need to help the rear suspension, reccomend trailer brakes of course and the chassi will handle it fine. Power wise, no where near any of the new V8s but everyone used it in 1999 no problem. It'll struggle in the hills but otherwise capable chassi if you are prudent in your decisions.
Now if you load the Burb down with 4 screamin kids, 500lbs of luggage, trailer full of everything but another kitchen sink I'd say you don't have enough truck. Also towing heavy will not be friendly to a 250kmi old auto trans. Keep it cool!
Bottom line, you're right on the edge of what your vehicle will be happy towing.
Problem is, you don't want to sink a bunch of upgrades into your old whip just to sell it after the first trip.
I'd reccomend if you're an experienced wrench and experienced towing, go for it. If you're not that guy, I'd go bigger and newer for peace of mind and factor of safety.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Thunderbolt wrote:

Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.



Easy and most folks derived it the same way...why always advise to
go out and actually weigh it, axle by axle, fully loaded ready to
go camping. Not just the newbies asking for help, but senior advisors
here also don't understand that concept of curb being the basis for
most all the ratings

Take the OP's 7,300 GVWR minus it's curb of around 5,300 and you get
approx 2,000 of cargo/payload/etc...only if he has a curb weight
TV...Curb is the stripper with no options, other than the towing option
and one 150lb driver. Some OEMs use full up fluids (fuel) and some
a partial tankful

Below is a quote from another thread on this with more detail of my
Suburban and get: 3,350 lb cargo/payload over curb

Ditto folks referencing the MTWR...correct, as that is what the OEMs
all publish, but fine print says used a 'curb' vehicle...

This OP will most likely find that his actually weighs in around 6.5K
fully loaded. If each seat belt filled with 200 pounders...it will push
it to around 7K or more

Agree that this trailer will be at the hairy edge or more and suggest
consideration of 4.1's for the diff(s). The 5.7L is capable, but way
down in HP compared to today's ICE's.

Take a look at the below GCWR chart from GM and notice the tow rating
between the 3.73 and 4.1 for the 5.7L



BenK wrote:
GCWR is fairly new rating and not listed widely, yet. Also note that many DO NOT
consider GCWR matters, so not many will have that info here on these
forums

Gotta grab these charts from the OEM the year they publish them...as they remove
them the next model/gen...as it is a source of liability for them it something
goes south (all OEMs has something go south sooner or later). This is the brochure
spec you need to get a hold of

GCWR GCWRchart

Generally, it is the curb weight + tow option + one 150lb driver + hitch + MTWR

Factored by components on the TV. Like the diff ratio, etc...also note that aftermarket
stuff like over sized tires, lift kit, etc, etc

Here is an old thread on this using my Suburban as an example


Help Understanding How Factories Detemine Truck Weights
BenK wrote:
This comes up all the time...and most who have not gone through this
before...go away to not talk about this again...deny and argue...or
some actually understand how this works-especially those who went
out and actually weighed their TV

Pure marketing with some reality sprinkled in...meaning how else can
the OEMs do this and still be competitive with the public who believes
the marketing data as gospel...AKA "King of the Hill" or "mine is
bigger than yours"

Reality, as how else can they provide a manageable level of rows/columns/etc

Meaning if they listed every option on a row with a column for the
various ratings.

Like a row for 4x4 and columns for MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

Then a row for 4x4 & AC and columns for MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

Then a row for 4x4 & AC & power seats/windows/locks and columns for
MTWR, Payload, GCWR, etc

and so on, and so on, and so on...betcha that would be dozens of sheets
and even more confusing than what we have now...where they define or
put into context with the fine print




This is my Suburban, as I've actually weighed it at a county weights
and measure certified (their sticker for that year) to be accurate
enough for commerce (sell by weight and charge money for that weight)

That 5,250 Lb CURB is on the California DMV data base and is provided
by GM, the OEM of my GMC Suburban. Against the VIN number.

These Calif SMOG test reports are official state documents and are
also legal documents that I'd use if I need to prove anything about
the data on my SMOG test/registration/etc

Have noodled what options I'd have to unbolt, cut out, etc in order
to get my Suburban down to the listed 'curb'...There wouldn't be any
carpet, sound insulation, 4x4, AC, automatic, etc, etc, etc

"Test Weight" is the 'curb' weight, not the actual...again, have
actually weighed it at a county weights and measure certified scale
at my local garden center

BenK wrote:
My Suburban GMT400/1996 was before the weight stickers on the the newer
TVs door...

So here are my numbers:

5,250 curb
8,600 GVWR

3,350 lb cargo/payload over curb


My 2014 smog certificate...note that this is an official state
document and the info supplied by each OEM for that VIN...
mysub mysuburban mysubsmog mysmog

mysubGVWR mysubdoor mysubdoorlable doorlabel subdoorlable


Mine weighs in around 7,200 at the local garden scales, county
weights&measure certified, with me (180) and toolbox (+200) and misc stuff (+50)

Also has full up option package, SLT, 4x4, big block, and over sized
wheels and tires

8,600 minus
7,200

1,400 lbs cargo/payload

All with a 6,000 RGAWR...that AAM rates at 10,000 GAWR. The 6K GAWR
GM lists is around 2,000 more than most 'half ton' TVs

Oh...also ordered the F60 option...which is the 1 ton front snow plow prep package
My FGAWR is 4,250 and near most half ton's rear GAWR.



And here is the glove box RPO code label listing every option that
my Sub left the factory with...plus I've added lots of stuff...how
many pages would the matrix listing each and each combo of options
take to list MTWR, GCWR, etc...


mysubrpo suburbanrpo mysuburbanrpo



{edit}...here is my 1980 Siliverado C10 Big Ten (1500HD of it's era)
and note the 'curb' vs GVWR

Ditto what would I have to unbolt/cut-out/etc to get it down to 'curb'


mytrucksmog mysilveradosmog trucksmog silveradosmog



Actual weight at the dumps...me (180), nephew (180), bed cap (~250),
over sized tires/wheels, tools, extra coolant, extra oil, etc, etc

This scale also had the county weights and measure certified sticker



mytruckweight truckweight silveradoweight truckdumpweight


vs it's door ratings label


mytruckdoorlabel truckdoorlabel mytruckgvwr truckgvwr




This one addresses diff ratio and how it affects MTWR/GCWR

changing gear ratio? myth?
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

jmckelvy
Explorer
Explorer
Thunderbolt wrote:
Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.



What he said!

I was thinking the exact same thing.
06 RAM 3500,Dually,CTD,Auto(ATS Stage 1),QC,4X4,PacBrake,Spyntec Freespin Hubs,60 Gal Titan Tank,EFI Live, Line-X,Torklifts and SuperHitch,Fastguns
2013 Arctic Fox 990, 275 Watts Solar, 2 Grp 31 AGMs
US Navy 1964-1968, 2-Tour Vietnam Vet

MegaCab_PL
Explorer
Explorer
I'd say no. I had a 99 Tahoe with factory towing package, 373 gears, same truck like yours, just shorter and 500 lbs lighter. Tow capacity was 6500.

I had issues pulling 4000 up the hill, or getting going if I had to stop on a red light going uphill.

Now I am towing with an 2006 Explorer with a small 4.6 and the little ford outperforms the Tahoe by day and night. I'd say Tahoe was more comfy, wider and bulky, but power wise that 5.7 was not that great.

Thunderbolt
Explorer
Explorer
Where did you come up with a payload of 2,000 lbs ? There is no way you have that much payload. The tv would have to weigh 5,300 lbs and I know they are heavier than that. Your trailer has a gross weight of 6,813 lbs. That would put the hitch weight at around 800-1,000 lbs. Too much for that year Suburban IMHO.

TrueBlueKC wrote:
Before I buy a new TV I figured I'd post some numbers and see what you all think. We were looking at trailers and found one we like a lot. The Keystone passport 23RB. At first it seemed like it would be too much for my burb but I'm not sure.

TV is 99 Suburban 4x4 5.7L with a 3.73 axle.
6000# trailer rating
7300# GVWR
4000# RAWR
base payload is 2000#
Wheelbase is 131.5"
I can't find the GCWR anywhere.

The trailer is 26'3" long and 11' high
Dry wt. is 4760#
Dry hitch wt. 565#
CCC is 2053#

My 'burban has plenty of life left with 150,000 miles and I'd hate to trade her in just yet, but I will if I have to.
Bryan
2003 2500HD Ext. cab short box
6.0 liter 4.10 gears, Nelson performance PCM 293,000 miles
98 K1500 4x4 heavy duty 1/2 ton (Sold)
6,600lb GVWR 5,280lbs on the scale empty
14 bolt rear diff. 3:73 , Tranny and oil coolers
380,000 miles.

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Being on the edge of a TVs capability is not usually the best experience. If you add a large family, with lots of gear it could be too much.

If you are prepared to trade up to a more capable TV, you could give your Burb a try before doing so. IMO, it would work for the short term, unless you are planning a long trip right away. If you are not happy with it towing the new trailer, you could trade anytime.

Jerry