Forum Discussion

EEEO's avatar
EEEO
Explorer
Apr 23, 2015

AF 811 mods & upgrades, solar, satellite, etc.

My wife and I upgraded from an old '99 Winnebago TC (our first TC) last year. We deliberated for some time as to what we should do, since a Class B seemed like a good option, but we happened across a good deal on a 2013 AF 811, so we decided to pull the trigger. I'm starting this thread to document the upgrades I plan to do, and solicit input and advice from anyone who might be willing to share. I'm planning on pulling it out of storage next week, and get after some of these upgrades.

I'm planning the following:

1: Installation of solar panels. I've ordered a 200 watt kit from Windynation. Yes, I've read the RV Charging Puzzle. My intent is to adjust the charge controller and see how things shake out. I can always change things around or replace the controller if need be. My plan was to place the panels above the bed running N-S on either side of the skylight as I don't think there are many other places they would fit. My AF is pre-wired for solar (no idea if the wire they used is adequate yet), and there is a sticker on the wall behind the sink stating that the wiring is in that location. This kit comes with a temperature sensor as well. Has anyone installed a similar system? I'm guessing that they didn't pre-wire for a temp sensor, so I'll have to determine how to best route that to the battery compartment.

2: Installation of a Winegard Carryout G2 satellite dish.
This one poses a few problems. The largest of which is where to locate the receiver. I can put it inside the cabinet behind the TV, but I don't want to have to open the door to change channels. Any ideas on receiver placement? I've considered modifying the door to accommodate a screen or something, and also seeing if there is a way to mount it between the top cabinet and the bottom.

3: Adding an inverted outlet somewhere in the kitchen area.

4: Doing this basement fan mod that I'm apparently not the first one to think of!

5: Completing some sound mitigation work on the Onan LP generator. I can't seem to find it now, but I ran across a thread a while back where someone had installed some sound-deadening material inside the generator compartment. Any ideas where he got that stuff from? He also added a resonator or some type of 2nd muffler. I'm not sure if I have the room to do that or not. I'm guessing I'd have to remove most of the exhaust pipe to accommodate it so it wouldn't stick a foot out of the back of the camper.

6: Not exactly a mod to the AF, but I'd like to try and convert this coleman grill I already own to use the on-board propane on my AF. I have the quick coupler on the back, but I need to ditch the regulator that came with the grill and replace it with a simple control/metering valve along with the appropriate connector and hose assembly to connect it to the AF. The rub is that they don't make a conversion kit for it, so it may not be all that easy to do. Why try, why not just buy a new grill you ask? Well this grill fits nicely in the storage compartment under the dinette, and I haven't found one that uses on board propane that would fit in there. If I could find a grill that would pack somewhere easily I would gladly buy a new grill, but I'm not hopeful.

7: Replace all incandescent lamps with LED's. If anyone has any suggestions in this department, my ears are open. They need to be dimmable, since some of the lights are on dimmers in the AF. I had bought some LED lamps off Amazon for our last TC, but several of them failed after a short time or never worked in the first place.

If I had it here I would have taken some photos to add to this post, but I'll have to get to that once I get it out of storage.

Cheers!
Truck Campers
  • deltabravo's avatar
    deltabravo
    Nomad
    Apr 29, 2015
    I will have to play with mine more and re-wire it back to having the basement fan on the switch, and try the auto setting on the T-Stat.

    Mine:

  • brholt's avatar
    brholt
    Explorer II
    Apr 28, 2015
    EEEO wrote:
    trail-explorer wrote:
    brholt wrote:
    On item #4 there is an easier way to do that. The basement fan is actually controlled by the thermostat (pull the cover and you will see the wire). You can replace the thermostat with a digital one which has a fan only option. This will let you manual turn on the fan at any time.


    It works just like you mentioned, but also note that the fan will no longer turn on when the furnace is running. Moving the wire makes the basement fan "manual control only", which should be fine, so long as you remember to turn it on in really cold climates.


    Thanks for the heads-up. It didn't occur to me that the fan would be wired separately into the thermostat, but it's not surprising since that's similar to how most home furnaces operate. Many thermostats have a "on" and "auto" setting, so I wonder if it would be possible to wire it like you would a home HVAC system, where "on" will make the fan run constantly, and "auto" will make it run only in conjunction with the furnace.

    I'm picking my camper up tomorrow, I better start making a list.....



    Correct, that is how it works. I probably should have been clearer that the options on the thermostats are usually auto and on..
  • EEEO's avatar
    EEEO
    Explorer
    Apr 28, 2015
    trail-explorer wrote:
    brholt wrote:
    On item #4 there is an easier way to do that. The basement fan is actually controlled by the thermostat (pull the cover and you will see the wire). You can replace the thermostat with a digital one which has a fan only option. This will let you manual turn on the fan at any time.


    It works just like you mentioned, but also note that the fan will no longer turn on when the furnace is running. Moving the wire makes the basement fan "manual control only", which should be fine, so long as you remember to turn it on in really cold climates.


    Thanks for the heads-up. It didn't occur to me that the fan would be wired separately into the thermostat, but it's not surprising since that's similar to how most home furnaces operate. Many thermostats have a "on" and "auto" setting, so I wonder if it would be possible to wire it like you would a home HVAC system, where "on" will make the fan run constantly, and "auto" will make it run only in conjunction with the furnace.

    I'm picking my camper up tomorrow, I better start making a list.....
  • trail-explorer's avatar
    trail-explorer
    Explorer
    Apr 28, 2015
    brholt wrote:
    On item #4 there is an easier way to do that. The basement fan is actually controlled by the thermostat (pull the cover and you will see the wire). You can replace the thermostat with a digital one which has a fan only option. This will let you manual turn on the fan at any time.


    It works just like you mentioned, but also note that the fan will no longer turn on when the furnace is running. Moving the wire makes the basement fan "manual control only", which should be fine, so long as you remember to turn it on in really cold climates.
  • brholt's avatar
    brholt
    Explorer II
    Apr 28, 2015
    On item #4 there is an easier way to do that. The basement fan is actually controlled by the thermostat (pull the cover and you will see the wire). You can replace the thermostat with a digital one which has a fan only option. This will let you manual turn on the fan at any time.
  • EEEO's avatar
    EEEO
    Explorer
    Apr 24, 2015
    wcjeep wrote:
    With my 2008 AF811 I bought all of my LED's from LED Trailer Lights. The lights are a few years old now. None have burned out. The power draw is a big difference from stock.

    I looked at more sound proofing from the Onan. I didn't feel comfortable placing insulation too close the generator. I also has an open bottom. Wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make.

    I also upgraded the thermostat to electronic for more precise control. I also added additional 12v outlets for charging. Then placed dual USB chargers in the two extra 12v outlets to maximize charging activities. I also swapped out the stock Kenwood stereo for one with front USB. Then loaded MP3's on a nanoUSB. It barely sticks out. The NanoUSB won't snag on anything.


    Yeah. Those LED's are like twice as much as those I bought on Ebay that were junk. I guess "you get what you pay for" is true in this case. I'll have to check which lamps are in the pot lights. The descriptions didn't say whether they were dimmable or not so maybe once I find out what lamps I need I'll email them and ask.

    I found the thread about the resonator and insulation. It was B Quiet sound insulation. I'm going to try it. We dry camp quite a bit and though we don't use the generator all that often, I'd prefer it to be as quiet as possible when we do.

    The stereo that NW put in ours actually has a USB port I believe. It will also play DVD's to the TV and CD's with MP3's. I think I'm going to use one of those outlets with an integrated USB charger in it for the inverted outlet I'm planning on installing.
  • wcjeep's avatar
    wcjeep
    Explorer
    Apr 23, 2015
    With my 2008 AF811 I bought all of my LED's from LED Trailer Lights. The lights are a few years old now. None have burned out. The power draw is a big difference from stock.

    I looked at more sound proofing from the Onan. I didn't feel comfortable placing insulation too close the generator. I also has an open bottom. Wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make.

    I also upgraded the thermostat to electronic for more precise control. I also added additional 12v outlets for charging. Then placed dual USB chargers in the two extra 12v outlets to maximize charging activities. I also swapped out the stock Kenwood stereo for one with front USB. Then loaded MP3's on a nanoUSB. It barely sticks out. The NanoUSB won't snag on anything.
  • EEEO's avatar
    EEEO
    Explorer
    Apr 23, 2015
    KMP44 wrote:
    For item #2 - you can buy inexpensive IR "eyes" on a cable that allow you to put the receiver in the cabinet and use the remote with cabinet closed. You just need to have the extension mounted outside the cabinet. There are a bunch of different products on Amazon and elsewhere. $15 should get you what you need.

    On the Coleman grill, I don't have a picture handy, but if you look closely at the regulator assembly, it is actually two pieces with a threaded connection between the regulator and the part that attaches to the burner. If you unscrew that, you have (I think) a 1/8" npt thread that you can add fittings to so that it will connect to your low pressure LP line. Be careful when you unscrew it - there are some small parts including a spring on the regulator side...


    Haha. An IR extender, such a simple solution! And here I was trying to re-invent the wheel thinking of how to modify the cabinet, etc.....

    I think you're right. The grill is in the camper, so I'll have to look at it when I get it back here, but I think you're right about the pipe threading into the regulator. If that's the case I should be able to use brass fittings to go from there. Now to find a valve that will work. It may sound silly, but I thought about just using a simple ball valve, but I'm not sure that it's adjustment would be precise enough for the task.
  • KMP44's avatar
    KMP44
    Explorer
    Apr 23, 2015
    For item #2 - you can buy inexpensive IR "eyes" on a cable that allow you to put the receiver in the cabinet and use the remote with cabinet closed. You just need to have the extension mounted outside the cabinet. There are a bunch of different products on Amazon and elsewhere. $15 should get you what you need.

    On the Coleman grill, I don't have a picture handy, but if you look closely at the regulator assembly, it is actually two pieces with a threaded connection between the regulator and the part that attaches to the burner. If you unscrew that, you have (I think) a 1/8" npt thread that you can add fittings to so that it will connect to your low pressure LP line. Be careful when you unscrew it - there are some small parts including a spring on the regulator side...

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