Ammonia versus Compressor Fridge...
After all the talk about Danfoss compressor fridges and how much better they were than the old school Ammonia Units, I decided to 'fiddle with mine and do a long term test using a remote digital recor...
Forum Discussion
Kayteg1 wrote:
With HVAC the biggest issue is insulation.
I do have one of those 7 foot tall fridge/freezer at home and it does use the same size compressor the 5 footer does, yet the huge freezer goes below 0F easy.
I assume the insulation and door gaskets is playing huge role here.
Just for the sake of it, we are expecting 100F this weekend.
I will start my ammonia refrigerator and see how low it will go.
My plan is to start it before noon in full heat and time it.
Any other suggestion for the test?
If the board is Thermister controlled, you can only get the refrigerator section to around 32-34 no matter what you do unless you get one of those adjustable 'snip the top' Thermister replacements. Stock Thermisters will start to cycle the propane to the burner at that 32-34 temp.
Do a 'dollar bill test' on the door gaskets. If you can easily pull the bill out (no effort) with the door closed and latched, it's either door gasket time or adjustment time. You want good resistance to the bill coming out.
Door gaskets tend to take a 'set' after a while and not seal tightly but there is a fix straight from the Dometic Shop manual and I haven't tried it because my fridge is pretty new but...
You can take s some insulation and roll it up and place it between the gasket and the fridge door and the heat the gasket with a blow dryer and let it cool. That will cause the gasket to assume the shape of the insulation wad behind it and seal properly.. I would assume that would apply to any RV Fridge, ammonia or compressor.
Right out of the Dometic manual. I'd do the bill test first to see it it seals properly however.
Probably work for a home fridge as well.
