Battery Separator Problem

[hdblair]

Hi All: Here is my configuration: Lance 2003 1161 on my 2002 Ford f-350 dually, crew cab, long bed, diesel. The truck has two new batteries (less than 6 months old) and the camper has a new (2 months old) deep cycle jell cell battery.
My Problem: About two weeks ago I began to hear a "clicking" sound in the camper while the truck was idling (the camper is on the truck since we are still returning home from a three month sojourn to Newfoundland). I traced the sound to my battery separator (it was a Sure Power model 1314). It would click, wait a few seconds and then click again. At about this same time I noticed my camper battery did not seem to be charging well. Also, I have a inverter I charge my computer with that I plug into the 12v outlet. It converts the 12v to 110. The inverter is rated at 375 watts. I have had this inverter in operation like this for over two years without any problems. If I turn off the inverter, the battery separator does not "click" any more. However, after looking at my camper schematic, I noticed the battery separator also drove the halogen docking lights directly. So I unplugged the computer inverter and turned on the docking lights. The battery separator again clicked (opening the circuit.)

I did the following:
1. Replaced the 1314 with a 1314A (apparently the A means it can provide remote assist start but I do not have this option hooked up.)
2. Had all three batteries checked. They all tested out fine (however, I did not load test them.)
3. Measured the voltage form the truck to the battery separator (it is ok also.)

After putting in the new separator, the new one now "clicks" on and off. The last thing I have tried was replacing a 40amp circuit breaker that resides on the camper battery side of the battery separator. I have not had a chance to see if this helps.

I am at a loss as to what the problem is (unless the new circuit breaker works, meaning the old one had just gotten weak.)

Does anyone have any ideas, suggestions, help, etc. you can pass along?

Thanks,

Harold Blair

[monkey44]

Had the exact same problem with my Lance, same isolator - clicking, no charging. It was the same Sure Charge but not in the recall numbers - although it failed in the same way as the recalled isolators. Lance replaced the isolator under warranty, I installed it and it worked fine for a couple months. Then same thing, clicking no charge. Had a discussion with Sure Charge supervisor several times - essentially, got blown off.

Finally, bypassed the isolator and everything charged as it should. So, took the isolator out of the system and have had no problems with charging since.

I have a disconnect in my truck, so won't discharge my truck battery ... but if I install another isolator, it definitely will not be a Sure Charge. They allowed some into the recall, but the same issues with others on both sides of the recall numbers are the same failure issues. They should have backed up all of the failures, not just a convenient few ... just my 2 cents

[J_S_B]

Mine just started doing the same thing!! I also have one of the Sure Power 1314 recall replacements. It clicks on and off about every 15 seconds. My battery monitor shows a very weak charge status, if at all, with fridge on DC and engine is running. Last trip the fridge wouldn't cool on DC mode. Got to the campsite with nice warm beer.

So, what are the alternatives to the Sure Power separators. Is Lance still using them?

John

[mark_be]

Mine did the same and it had a serial number that was valid for the recall. I now have a new one (switched to a 200 amp model in the recall procedure)and everything is ok now.

[kohldad]

joerg68 pretty much covered my thoughts.

On the truck side of the seperator, start watching the voltage and then have someone start the truck. Things may happen so quick that you may not see the lower voltage, but if it goes up and down, the seperator is probably working properly.

Only other thing I could think of is make sure you have a good connection on the negative lead of the seperator, preferably to the truck's ground via the connector. The seperator draws ~1A of current so needs a decent ground.

[joerg68]

If all works well, the separator will switch on when it senses a specific voltage (for instance 13.4V), and off when the voltage it senses falls below a certain value (for instance, 12.5V - note these values are arbitary examples and the documentation of the separator should tell the actual values). That way, the camper is connected to the truck when the truck batteries are being charged, and disconnected when they are not. Which is a good idea because it prevents your camper from draining the truck batteries.


Can you measure the voltage at the entry (truck) side of the separator with the truck running? You should see it going up and down as the separator turns off and on.

One guess is that there is a bad connection along the way which lets the voltage break down as soon as a significant current goes through it. I'd check the wiring from the truck to the camper; especially at all connectors along the way. And do not forget to check the ground, too - which may be the primary culprit. Did you encounter a lot of rain in Newfoundland? Something may have corroded there.

Another guess is that the truck's charging system (alternator / regulator) is going out and doesn't handle the load properly any more.

ETA: and there may be some huge load which is alway present on the camper side of the separator (e.g. a short). In that case, the voltage delivered from the truck side would go down due to the load, separator switches off; w/o load the voltage goes up again and so on). You migth try to disconnect everything on the camper side from the separator and see if it switches correctly then.

[Boatycall]

When I plugged your battery isolator into Google, I found it has an active, somewhat recent recall.

Recall info

None of the things you've listed should be a problem. Your isolator is nothing but a simple solenoid, and it's clicking means it's engaging/disengaging. Could be bad, or could not be getting enough voltage/current to stay engaged. I would check the recall first.