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Battery time. 6V?

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
So the not so old batteries in the Camper are cooked. I pretty much knew it. One thing I didn't pay attention to and maintian the last few years. Never seen batteries so dry! Lol

Good time to switch to 6V batteries.
So standard GC batteries are a bit too tall unless I remove the sliding battery tray. I could do that, but what about the shorter flush post batteries like NPP NP6 or Mighty Max 200ah deep cycle batteries?
Little more spendy than the "bargain" 225ah GC batteries but they're AGM and I can keep the sliding tray becasue they're shorter.
Anyone use these brands?
Issues?
They appear to be quality deep cycle batteries. Maxing out on capacity, 225 ah vs 200 is not a big priority. They're all going to need charged up every day or 2 the way we camp, if Boondocking.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
22 REPLIES 22

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
^And I would too. They're only like $130 now. But they don't fit where I need em to fit.
The point of my thread was I found good capacity 6v's in a different shape "box" that actually fit.
Otherwise, Duracells or Costco batteries would be in there instead.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

MORSNOW
Navigator II
Navigator II
Hemi Joel wrote:
My theory on rv batteries is get the cheap ones and don't worry about them. Then I can spend my vacation time enjoying the trip, and not fretting about preserving several hundred dollars worth of batteries. The 6 volt deep cycles from sams club were about $75-80 each last time. They were used and abused and 3 years old in my Arctic Fox when I sold it and still working fine.


I agree! I bought inexpensive 6v batteries (Duracell Ultra) from my local Batteries Plus for $90 each 6 years ago and have yet to see a reason to replace them. I almost exclusively boondock camp so they get used often and last much longer than most give credit for.
2014 Wolf Creek 850SB
2012 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD 7,220# Truck/10,400# Camper Fully Loaded

jaycocreek
Explorer II
Explorer II
My theory on rv batteries is get the cheap ones and don't worry about them.


Mine also..The last set I had was still going strong at 7 years when I sold the trailer..

I thought about 6-volt for my TC then decided against it..Am thinking 4D right now for the space I have...
Lance 9.6
400 watts solar mounted/200 watts portable
500ah Lifep04

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
^ Thats a good deal. But there’s no worry about maintaining them if you’re set up right.
Which is the same way to be setup regardless of how much the battery costs
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Hemi_Joel
Explorer
Explorer
My theory on rv batteries is get the cheap ones and don't worry about them. Then I can spend my vacation time enjoying the trip, and not fretting about preserving several hundred dollars worth of batteries. The 6 volt deep cycles from sams club were about $75-80 each last time. They were used and abused and 3 years old in my Arctic Fox when I sold it and still working fine.
2018 Eagle Cap 1163 triple slide, 400W solar, MPPT, on a 93 Dodge D350 Cummins, DTT 89 torque converter, big turbo, 3 extra main leafs, Rancho 9000s rear, Monroe gas magnums front, upper overloads removed, home made stableloads, bags.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
^Which is why I bought the Mighty Max ( there are other same size different branded).
It is only 200ah vs 225-240 of true GC batteries but same advantages as GCs and just as much power as 2 group 27s.
Cost, $190-200 ea for Agm vs good group 27s flooded which are $150-180 and 27 AGMs which are $250-350.

Unless they don’t last, they hit the sweet spot for compact size, storage capacity, Agm and price. And it don’t cost anything to switch over. (I did have to build a jumper wire as the ones from the 12V setup were a bit too short.)
Only a 1 year warranty, but 10 year design life.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

rickjo
Explorer
Explorer
jimh425 wrote:
rickjo wrote:
Have lasted so much longer than 12v whatever cycle.


What batteries did you replace last, how long did they last, how much did they cost, and what did you replace them with, how long did they last, and how much did those cost?

I can only fit Group 24s in my compartment. I’ve used Interstate, Sears, and now have NAPAs. The NAPAs are still going, but the other two sets lasted 5 and 6 years respectively. All were lead acid batteries.


New camper in November 2006. Original batts lasted about 3 seasons. Replaced with 12v similar to originals and lasted to about 2013. As I said, Interstate dealer in my town suggested 6v golf cart batts (MUCH larger plates) but they were a bit too tall. So I was able to lower battery tray and go back for the install. I have had those ever since.I generally try to keep them above 11.5 v when camping. No solar, so I use the genset for multiple day camp sites. I set up my new truck to charge from the alternator and it works well when driving. I have a Blue Sea Systems Automatic Charging Relay # 7610. Since it is bidirectional, I can charge the truck with the genset as well (never had an emergency though). When home, I plug the camper into 110v and the on-board battery minder does a wonderful job of battery maintenance. It even charges the truck batt when loaded thanks to Blue Sea. Some Forest Service campgrounds now have electric sites which is a bonus for us.

I don't have old data on cost. 2013 after all. I am sure they were more than replacement 12v but clearly it has been worth it given the extended lifetime that I have experienced. Those prices would now be out-of-date anyway. An interstate dealer, or any brand that does golf cart batts, could supply current prices.

It is mostly determining if you can accommodate the height.

Rick
2019 F-350 4WD Crew Cab DRW 6.2 l gas engine (6500 lbs cargo capacity!)
2007 LanceMax 1181 loaded, King memory foam mattress (driver's side locker omitted).
"Leave the trail a little better than you found it."

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
So I went with 6v for longevity and deep discharge ability. Doesn't hurt that even these reduced size batteries still kick out 200ah, so same capacity as good group 27's.
Discharge rate isn't an issue unless your inverter is trying to kick start an air conditioner and Max charge rate is 54a on these.
Size wise, these are the smallest 200ah or greater I could find. Most GC batteries are over 10" tall, these are less than 9" tall with flush posts. And 12" long, many are longer. Fit perfect with no slop in my battery tray with about an inch of overhead clearance. GC batteries wouldn't fit in my battery compartment without removing the sliding tray.
And they're AGM.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
rickjo wrote:
Have lasted so much longer than 12v whatever cycle.


What batteries did you replace last, how long did they last, how much did they cost, and what did you replace them with, how long did they last, and how much did those cost?

I can only fit Group 24s in my compartment. I’ve used Interstate, Sears, and now have NAPAs. The NAPAs are still going, but the other two sets lasted 5 and 6 years respectively. All were lead acid batteries.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

rickjo
Explorer
Explorer
I was able to lower the tray enough to use 6v golf cart batteries. Have lasted so much longer than 12v whatever cycle. Advice from an Interstate dealer with his own RV.

Rick
2019 F-350 4WD Crew Cab DRW 6.2 l gas engine (6500 lbs cargo capacity!)
2007 LanceMax 1181 loaded, King memory foam mattress (driver's side locker omitted).
"Leave the trail a little better than you found it."

NRALIFR
Explorer
Explorer
Almost forgot, Kayteg.....
There is (was?) a common “old wives tale” that if you left a battery sitting on a concrete floor it would ruin it. That hasn’t been true since battery cases started being made of plastic, rather than hard rubber.

Do Cement Floors Ruin Car Batteries?

:):)
2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450 ‘Scuse me while I whinge.
And for all you Scooby-Doo and Yosemite Sam types………..Let’s Go Brandon!!!

NRALIFR
Explorer
Explorer
We’re actually in agreement Dave. You’re right, it depends on a lot of factors. One you didn’t mention was space. Some TC’s can’t accommodate the height of GC2’s in the battery compartment.

If you can only accommodate 2 batteries, you should at least consider if you can accommodate 2 group 31’s. If you choose the right batteries, you could end up with a few more amp-hours available with 2 group 31’s vs 2 GC2’s. Now, if your TC was designed to use 6 volt batteries, and if you have the room for four of them, that’s probably the best battery for you.

Two 12 volt batteries are also able to discharge at a higher rate than 2 6 volt batteries due to double the number of cells. That may be important to you if your planning on using an inverter to power a high wattage load, like a microwave. If your power needs don’t include microwave use, then that might not be a factor for you.

Personally, I always look at the available battery storage space, and then decide what voltage and form-factor battery will put the most useable amp hours in that space. I also prefer to not have to mess with flooded batteries, so I prefer AGM’s.

Lifepo is still to expensive for me to consider, but if it weren’t, they would be the clear amp-hour per cu/ft winner.

:):)
2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450 ‘Scuse me while I whinge.
And for all you Scooby-Doo and Yosemite Sam types………..Let’s Go Brandon!!!

crosscheck
Explorer
Explorer
NRALIFR wrote:
In the RV world, the idea that 6V batteries are always the way to go, for everyone, every time, is a myth as persistent as never letting a battery sit on concrete.

:):)


I have observed RVers posts over the years on what are the best batteries and everyone has their own opinions on which batteries are the best for their situations, but I have never heard about this "myth" regarding 6V batteries, just honest, real life experiences from RVers.

38 years ago we purchased a 1978 Vanguard 8' TC which had an ice box, hand pumped fresh water system, manual lit HWT and manual lit furnace and 3 small lights all receiving power from a 12 V battery in the truck. Made due electrically as long as we did not use the furnace much(warm weather camping).

Fast forward, we had a TC with 4x6V AGM's and presently a TT with 4x6V GC2's. Power requirements have changed over the years meaning that with the large increase in daily AH required, batteries have become a lot more relied upon in every day RV life. In our case we need batteries that can be drawn down a fair bit every day(we dry camp 95%) and charged back up to close to 100% with out having to be replaced every few years. Also, it would be nice if they were not too heavy and didn't break the bank.

On the advice of many on this site, 6V GC2's were the popular choice but not the only choice.

Your choice and number of batteries has a lot to do with your camping style(dry camping or power pole princess), battery location, (AGM required inside?) and budget(Lithium$$$).

Dave
2016 F350 Diesel 4X4 CC SRW SB,
2016 Creekside 23RKS, 490W solar, 2000W Xantrex Freedom 2012 inverter, 4 6V GC-2 (450AH)
2006 F350 CC 4X4 sold
2011 Outfitter 9.5' sold
Some Of Our Fun:http://daveincoldstream.blogspot.ca/

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
NRALIFR wrote:
In the RV world, the idea that 6V batteries are always the way to go, for everyone, every time, is a myth as persistent as never letting a battery sit on concrete.

:):)


:h