Blow out water lines question
First time trying the blow out method. The one thing that I typically dont see is what do folks do with the freshwater pump? The one thing I read was to fully drain the freshwater tank. Then turn ...
Forum Discussion
Lantley wrote:
Fixing the Pex is generally easy enough. It's finding the leak and gaining access to it in order to fix it that is the challenge. That does not include any damage caused by the leak.
Murphy's law dictates the leak will not be in a easy to access spot!
For the record standard insurance policy procedure is to pay for damage caused by a leak but they don't actually pay to fix the leak itself.
The damage is generally a bigger problem than the leak!
My point is use anti freeze and avoid any issues. Antifreeze is cheaper than shark bites. Easier to use than a saw, requires less effort than removing the underbelly. Does involve drying anything out. Antifreeze is also much cheaper than replacing, fixtures, valves,pumps or a host of miscellaneous parts
:R
Silly person you are, just can't wrap your head around this dirt simple way of clearing the lines.
You simply repressurize the stupid water system WITH AIR in the spring time to TEST the system!
Yeah, it IS THAT simple.
I have to check and fill my tires anyway in the spring, tires lose pressure over the winter months so I do BOTH things at the same time in the spring. Or perhaps you NEVER check and air your tires, perhaps that is why so many folks grumble about tires blowing out on them?
Put 30 PSI of air on the system then let sit for an hr then check the pressure, no drop, no air noise and you are good to go with water.
AIR will not do any damage and you WILL hear it hiss if something is wrong.
A $39 Harbor Freight compressor can easily do both jobs or like I do, add 50ft of air line hose to my shop compressor. I have done it both ways.
EVEN if I were to use RV antifreeze I WOULD STILL PRETEST WITH AIR ONLY in the spring.
That is how you test brand new plumbing in new homes, stub out then add a air gauge then pressurize with air. Wait an hr and check for pressure drop, no pressure drop you are good to go with water.
As far as finding and getting to lines, no, they are not hidden in walls, they are run in a chase at floor level (fivers and some MHs might be under the floor in the basement but still not all that hard to access) in a RV, sometimes may run under the tub but pretty good chance that they WILL be not all that hard to get to..
At least in the several TTs I have had they both have been very easy to get to, out in the open under a couch, base cabinets and such.
Fixtures? Really, $50 at Home Depot or Lowes will get you FAR BETTER faucets than what RV manufacturers use, first thing I do is remove and toss the RV faucets, they are Dollar General quality stuff.
LEAVE the faucets OPEN and absolutely NO water will be trapped in the faucet, PERIOD.
Do YOU fill your water heater up with the pink stuff? Perhaps you should, perhaps you do not realize that when you drain the water heater, the drain IS above the bottom of the tank, it leaves at least 1 inch of water in there (water can't go below the drain hole).
Like I said, IF YOU feel better using the pink stuff then by all means use it. HOWEVER, there have been and are plenty of other folks who do not and never have any issues for many years.
