Hey folks, It has been a while since I posted. My wife and I purchased a 2017 Jayco 34RSBS travel trailer. We love it. However, I don't have a truck that can pull it. I borrowed a friends F350 to get it to the campground and I am looking to purchase a good used truck by mid May. The TT is 10900 empty. We have about 500 pounds of stuff in the TT. I need a 4 door truck, since we will be taking our German Sheperd with us. I am also going to need an 8 foot bed so we can load the Golf Cart. I am concerned about the EGR issue with the F250's. I have seen where some are bulletproofed and others have had the EGR delete. I have also looked at the Ram 3500. I want diesel. I would appreciate any and all input from personal experience on the F250 and the Ram 3500. Also if there is a Chevy that can do the job, please feel free to post. It just seems that there are more F250's available in my area. Thanks in advance. I will be using a weight distribution hitch with the camper. Tom in Virginia

Any of the later diesels...Ford, GM, Ram...but with a 11000 lb DRY trailer...absolutely go with a 350/3500.Congrats, andEnjoy your new trailer

If you want a Ford, choose a 2011 or newer with the 6.7 diesel.

Thanks downtheroad! I didn't want to be first to break the news to the OP! My thoughts exactly. At 11000 pounds dry, 3500 or f350 is a must.OP: You may have to get outside of your home area to find a suitable truck. Nothing wrong with that. Start with an internet search "Long Bed, F350, Crew Cab" and see what and were something turns up. That's exactly how I ended up getting my 3500 duly diesel Silverado. Took a drive to the dealership (it was a Sunday and they were closed), drove around the lot until we found it. Call, left a message. Next morning called again, mad an appointment for a test Drive on Tuesday after work and asked if I could tow my trailer with it. Tuesday after work, hitched up the camper, went to the dealer, they let me slap on the hitch, went for a 10 mile drive towing the trailer, returned. Unhitched, put the hitch back on my original truck, went inside and signed the dotted line. I asked for running boards to be installed, which they did with no extra cost, and said I could pick it up in 2 days. 2 days later, returned, running boards on, all cleaned up, got the tour, the On-Star activation and drove her home! And what a joy to tow that trailer! It's been a honeymoon now for 3 years! Gosh I love that truck! Tows magnificent!

Go With a 2012 and up F250 diesel. I would avoid the 03-11 Ford Diesel. The only reason I included the 2011 is because I do not tend to buy first year models and there was some teething issues with the fuel pump in 2011. Ram..hard to beat the 03-06 ish 5.9 Cummins. I personally would avoid any of the big three that had the DPF only. I'd try for one that has both the DPF and the DEF. typically that means the 2011's ish and up models. Google is your friend as my years are just running from memory. Thanks!Jeremiah

That's 1 ton territory but feel free to buy higher. Registration will kill ya though...

Bought the Camper now I need a truck | Good Sam Community

john1928
Explorer
Feb 15, 2017
1320Fastback wrote:
That's 1 ton territory but feel free to buy higher.

Registration will kill ya though...

Depends where you live and how they price their tabs... Around here cars and 3/4-ton and lighter trucks pay tabs based on value $10 + 1.25% X MSRP (decreasing by 10% of MSRP per year). So, for an $80K 3/4-ton you'd pay $1010 for your tabs (presumably because you must be a lousy rich person).

On the other hand 1-ton and heavier trucks pay based on weight and 1-tons are at the very bottom of that fee table. If you buy a $80,000 1-ton pickup (gross weight under 15K) your tabs will run you $120 (presumably because you must be a salt of the earth working class stiff rather than a lousy rich person). Yes, the logic is flawed.

The difference is smaller with lower priced trucks, and decreases with age (eventually favoring the 3/4 ton after 10 years). That said, if you're buying new around here you're likely not going to come out on top in the registration fee column over the life of the truck going with a similar 3/4-ton vs 1-ton.
ctilsie242
Explorer II
Feb 15, 2017
The price difference between a one ton and a 3/4 ton can be so low... I'd just go for a one ton, and be done with it.

Even though this sounds like heresy, I do wish Ford still sold F-350s with the V-10 engine. I don't need a diesel for what I do, and gassers are relatively headache free and need relatively little upkeep to keep them going.
dodge_guy
Explorer II
Feb 15, 2017
As was already mentioned the trailer is not 10,900 dry.

Actual specs.
Unloaded Vehicle Weight 8600lbs
Dry Hitch Weight 1275lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating 10950lbs
Cargo Carrying Capacity 2350lbs

So 8600lbs dry will end up weighing approx. 9800lbs loaded for a trip, maybe a bit less if you pack light. hitch weight will be approx. 1225lbs (12.5%).

Knowing you will be taking a golf cart I would definitely get the 1 ton. a 3/4 ton would be OK without a golf cart.
deltabravo
Nomad
Feb 15, 2017
downtheroad wrote:
Any of the later diesels...Ford, GM, Ram...
but with a 11000 lb DRY trailer...absolutely go with a 350/3500.

Ditto.

I love my CHevy.
ulvik
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
LIKE2BUILD wrote:
I have a '14 Ram 2500, crew cab, 8' bed, with 6.7L Cummins. That trailer is well within the specs of this truck. GCWR is 25,000lbs and max trailer weight is 16,870lbs. It has coil springs on all 4 corners and rides very smooth when unloaded. I can put my 5er on the hitch (14,000 GVWR) and it squats just about 1" and rides very well. Power is never a problem when hooked to the trailer.

So, no you don't need a 3500. My truck would pull your TT without issues.

KJ

As far as best bang for the buck this is the way to go. And in a tradesmen edition 4 door 4wd and diesel you can get them new for under $40K
1stgenfarmboy
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
I am not a ford guy but I am in the diesel world hip deep with all brands, if you can buy a 6.0 that has had the EGR system already taken care of along with new head gaskets they are really a pretty good engine after that, the duramax engine is quite powerful and pretty dependable but parts and labor will kill ya if needed, some folks won't even look at trucks that are more than a few years old ( why I will never know ) but a dodge from 91.5-98.5 which takes in two body styles but still has the 12V mechanical pump cumins would be my choise for a truck to get you there and home, parts are better priced and most any diesel shop or farmer can work on them with no problems. I have had 4 trucks of this vintage all went well over 200k before I sold them with zero engine problems, they are not quiet, the truck it's self has a few problems but they are hard to beat.
noteven
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2017
another job for a V10 EcoBoost, 600HP! ...
deltabravo
Nomad
Feb 14, 2017
downtheroad wrote:
Any of the later diesels...Ford, GM, Ram...
but with a 11000 lb DRY trailer...absolutely go with a 350/3500.

Ditto.

Drive each, pick the one you like the best
Camper_G
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
Agree with the others, but check your weights real good. My 17 Ram 2500 has over 3100 lbs of payload.

Absolutely avoid, and run from like the plague any 6.0 l ford diesels. They are very problematic.
jerem0621
Explorer II
Feb 14, 2017
Just a quick word on the golf cart in the bed of a long bed Ford. You will not be able to close the tailgate. I had to strap mine up when I hauled my golf cart in the bed. I highly recommend a Dually if you are going to do the golf cart in the bed plus pull a TT at the same Time.

Worked great for us...this was my old rig... mine was a v10...miss this trouble free/worry free truck.

Thanks,

Jeremiah