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Brake controller advice, what do i need?

rob37dawn
Explorer
Explorer
I searched brake controller in the forms and did not come up with much. Do most new TT come with electric brakes? If so any advice on a good controller (not a cheap one)? I like the sound of the proportional ones over timed. Do the controllers come with everything needed to hook it up? I have no problems wiring something in. Looking at a Trail runner SLE SLE 23 5000lbs.

98 chevy 3door short bed c1500 5.7 4l60 3.42 (going to 4.11 before getting a TT) 31s on the back 200k miles but still runs good.
30 REPLIES 30

larry_barnhart
Explorer
Explorer
Campfire Time wrote:
Me Again wrote:

Hundreds of thousand's of people tow with Prodigy's and think they are fine. I never liked mine, having to play with Boost settings, and city vs highway was always a compromise.


Controllers like the Prodigy require the tow vehicle to slow down first. So they add boost settings that start applying part of the braking current to the trailer to minute you touch the brake pedal.



What in tarnations are you talking about? Never had to do anything special with my Prodigy. Never heard of anyone else stating they had to do this either. It's set it an forget it. The only time I had to adjust it was when I got a new trailer.

I'm Benk, if you were getting jerking, banging, being pushed by their trailer, etc. then it wasn't set up right.




Never had a problem with our Prodigy needing adjustments on 2 chevs.

chevman
chevman
2019 rockwood 34 ft fifth wheel sold
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy



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scanguage II
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bikendan
Explorer
Explorer
rob37dawn wrote:
I searched brake controller in the forms and did not come up with much.


How can you not come up with much, when the Prodigy brake controllers are recommended overwhelmingly in these Forums, all the time?:h
Dan- Firefighter, Retired:C, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur:W, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP:(), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
BenK wrote:
Am also willing to change *IF* I find
that they are superior to my P3...


*IF* If you would have tried a MaxBrake or BrakeSmart years ago, you would be singing a different tune. I carry my Prodigy as a spare, but REALLY hope I never have to re-install it!

Chris
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
Someone could steal my truck as long as they mail the MaxBrake controller back to me! I kick myself as I wanted a BrakeSmart years ago, but thought they were to pricey.

Chris
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
"Part" of their problems may lay in their TV's brake pedal switch.

If it is a traditional button switch (think of a door bell button switch), then
theirs is not easily setup like those with GM's nifty brake pedal switch
*BUt* they can be adjusted to almost as tight as the GM (false switch
actuations then become a potential issue)

The GM brake pedal switch snaps 'on' with about 0.01" to 0.03" movement and that
is about 0.062" BEFORE the MC piston rod is moved. Then the stroke of that MC
rod dictates how much MC PSI is developed

Meaning that with the GM brake pedal switch sensed controller...you can turn on
the brake lights of both TV & Trailer *AND* turn on the trailer brakes BEFORE
the TV's MC develops ANY pressure. If the boost feature is set higher than zero,
then the trailer brakes will be braking that much higher

The GM brake pedal switch is NOT adjustable, where as the door bell types have
to have an adjustment mechanism

On the TV computer port based...it is not much different than the brake pedal
switch based. As the brake pedal switch is sensed by the computer, then the
computer tells that brake controller to turn on the trailer brakes and brake
lights

Am a major KISS kinda of person and know I'll not convince anyone sold on the
other, non-P2/P3 controllers. Nor will they convince me, but am always willing
to review and learn how other types works. Am also willing to change *IF* I find
that they are superior to my P3...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Campfire_Time
Explorer
Explorer
Me Again wrote:

Hundreds of thousand's of people tow with Prodigy's and think they are fine. I never liked mine, having to play with Boost settings, and city vs highway was always a compromise.


Controllers like the Prodigy require the tow vehicle to slow down first. So they add boost settings that start applying part of the braking current to the trailer to minute you touch the brake pedal.



What in tarnations are you talking about? Never had to do anything special with my Prodigy. Never heard of anyone else stating they had to do this either. It's set it an forget it. The only time I had to adjust it was when I got a new trailer.

I'm Benk, if you were getting jerking, banging, being pushed by their trailer, etc. then it wasn't set up right.
Chuck D.
โ€œAdventure is just bad planning.โ€ - Roald Amundsen
2013 Jayco X20E Hybrid
2016 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Z71 LTZ2
2008 GMC Sierra SLE1 Crew Cab Z71 (traded)

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
BenK wrote:
My personal preferences:

P3 here and would not touch any that requires tapping into my brake's hydraulics

Many have stated that the MC pressure switch will never fail, but there is another
recent thread where a guy has had his fail.

As for the TV bus sensed, not going to be as good as my P3

IMHO, most who do not like their P2/P3's do NOT have their system adjusted
correctly or optimised. Jerking, banging, being pushed by their trailer, etc.

Mine does none of that and my adjustment has the trailer brakes lead my TV's
brakes. To the point that I can modulate the TV's brake pedal to have ONLY trailer
brakes and the TV brakes NEVER come on...if I wish

Also do NOT like these 'Highly integrated' OEM brake controllers. Attune to all
in one copier/FAX/printer/scanner. One breaks and the whole thing has to be
replaced. On that other thread, the OP also says he gets a code each time he
starts it and that is going to be tough to diag...as it is 'Highly integrated',
meaning it is tied to many other functions and the problem maybe 'over there' and
not at the brake controller

Highly integrated is okay for some applications, but INMO not for a brake controller


2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
My personal preferences:

P3 here and would not touch any that requires tapping into my brake's hydraulics

Many have stated that the MC pressure switch will never fail, but there is another
recent thread where a guy has had his fail.

As for the TV bus sensed, not going to be as good as my P3

IMHO, most who do not like their P2/P3's do NOT have their system adjusted
correctly or optimised. Jerking, banging, being pushed by their trailer, etc.

Mine does none of that and my adjustment has the trailer brakes lead my TV's
brakes. To the point that I can modulate the TV's brake pedal to have ONLY trailer
brakes and the TV brakes NEVER come on...if I wish

Also do NOT like these 'Highly integrated' OEM brake controllers. Attune to all
in one copier/FAX/printer/scanner. One breaks and the whole thing has to be
replaced. On that other thread, the OP also says he gets a code each time he
starts it and that is going to be tough to diag...as it is 'Highly integrated',
meaning it is tied to many other functions and the problem maybe 'over there' and
not at the brake controller

Highly integrated is okay for some applications, but INMO not for a brake controller
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

hone_eagle
Explorer
Explorer


directlink


Very good ,maybe the best since Maxbrake is gone.
2005 Volvo 670 singled freedomline 12 speed
Newmar 34rsks 2008
Hensley trailersaver TSLB2H
directlink brake controller

-when overkill is cheaper-

memgrove
Explorer
Explorer
I just replaced a digital timer model controller I had with a plug and play Direclink controller and love it! I have had the pendulum/ accelarometer type controllers before and never liked any of them. The Direclink controller is more money but for me it is well worth it.
Mike
2006 Chevy 2500 4X4 crew cab Gasser
2013 Dutchmen Denali 311 BHS (Love the trailer HATE the manufacture!)

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
There is only one remaining higher end controller with MaxBrake out of production. It is http://www.brakecontroller.com/direclink.htm.

If you can find a used MaxBrake and work with Dutch and Di to get the brake line fitting for your vehicle, you will have the best controller available in recent years.

Hundreds of thousand's of people tow with Prodigy's and think they are fine. I never liked mine, having to play with Boost settings, and city vs highway was always a compromise.

With the MaxBrake the truck and trailer always just stop like a single unit, as it measures brake fluid pressure with a load cell in the brake line.

Controllers like the Prodigy require the tow vehicle to slow down first. So they add boost settings that start applying part of the braking current to the trailer to minute you touch the brake pedal.

So I would set this for highway use and in the city we would get the trailer jerking on the truck. Turn down Boost for city drive and forget to turn it back up for highway driving and you can come up short when you really need your brakes.

Chris
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

Shadow_Catcher
Explorer
Explorer
X4 Prodigy
And to answer the original question, depending on the state any trailer weighing 1500# (the lowest number) requires brakes and you really do NOT one with out them.

ChooChooMan74
Explorer
Explorer
Avoid time based controllers. Those slowly increase the braking power the longer you keep your foot on the brakes. Get one made by Tekonsha, like the Prodigy. They use accelerometers to add more braking or decrease braking. I use an old school Tekonsha from the 90s. Still works for me.
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traildog66
Explorer
Explorer
x3 Prodigy P2

abc40kids
Explorer
Explorer
X2 prodigy
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