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Brakepad & rotor advise

patperry2766
Explorer II
Explorer II
Power Stop rotors/pads

I have a 2013 Ford F-150 that I at the minimum need to have the front rotors turned and new brake pads due to warping.

I am considering just replacing with new rotors, and have been doing Internet research. I have seen this brand on several different websites and they get generally favorable reviews. I know that there are several other brands out there such as Wagner, Bosch, Duralast, etc.

While I drive a Ford, I would appreciate and suggestions or comments about any results, irregardless of it being a Ford, Chevy, Dodge, etc.
Courage is the feeling you have right before you fully understand the situation
19 REPLIES 19

GBuilders
Explorer
Explorer
I used Napa on my old truck and they squeeled so bad they replaced them with new set and it did the same thing. My brother had his 3500 in at Brake Check using their pads at a much lower cost and had really good wear on those pads.
2005 Jayco Eagle 305 BHS 5th wheel

New truck: 2019 Ford F-250 power stroke platinum 4x4

Former truck: 2014 Ram Megacab DRW Laramie 4x4 6.7/Aisin 6 speed 3:73

patperry2766
Explorer II
Explorer II
is it friday yet? wrote:
I replaced mine with Wagner parts. I just don't think its worth it to turn the rotors anymore. I order all my parts from Advance Auto Parts. Use a discount code from "Retail me not" and place your online order with Advance and go to the store to pick-up your parts an hour later. This has save me hundreds of dollars. You can place a couple orders and use different discount codes fyi.


Took your advise and got new rotors and pads for under $200 including sales tax. Their prices were a bit higher than Autozone or O'Reillys, but I still managed to save over $70.....SWEET!!!

Thanks !!
Courage is the feeling you have right before you fully understand the situation

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
patperry2766 wrote:
Any thoughts on semi-metallic vs ceramic pads?
Have not tried ceramic. I do read they are not recommended for towing as all the heat goes into the rotor vs. the semi-metallic absorbs more into the pad for better heat dissipation.

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
patperry2766 wrote:
coolbreeze01 wrote:
Curious how many miles on your truck?


52k, but should have been done about 18 months ago. It's not too bad until the pads & rotors heat up.

All it took was one trip down Pike's Peak to jack them up, and that was even with me downshifting.

I'm gonna go with my gut instinct and replace the rotors.

Any thoughts on semi-metallic vs ceramic pads?


Like most things in life, brakes are a compromise. Most of the time OEM does a very, very, very good job of getting it correct.

Sure, you can get pads that grip better, but then they wear faster. Or you can get a high steel pad, but then it will wear out your rotors faster. Or you can get a pad that is very good when it heats up, but it won't be worth a **** when cold.

All in all, the OEM does a very good job in getting it right the first time.


PS. Read Bryans link for some good information. It's spot on.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
True dat on warped vs buildup/change in section thickness.
Back to the ops question. You'll get good life out of OE spec pads and rotors. You should upgrade if you're roasting your brakes (either upgrade vehicle or upgrade brake system components).
I recently did pads on both the car and the truck in my sig. Opted to go with EBC ceramic pads. Red stuff on the car green stuff on the truck. I can't comment on longevity as both have less than 20k mi on them. But the braking power is at least as good as OE semi metallics and the brake dust is greatly reduced. This is a big deal to me and I'm sure others who keep their rigs clean. Where the OE pads would start showing dust on the fronts after only a couple days, the ceramics take a couple weeks of driving before they look like that. It is very noticeable.
Also no noise from the brakes.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

OH48Lt
Explorer
Explorer
No worries about ABS wires or parts on the F150. All you have to do is jack it up, place your jackstands, remove tire and wheel, remove caliper and hang it up out of the way, and just pull off the rotor. It is captured by the wheel studs, wheel, and caliper. Make sure the rotor is clean, and slide it on. Remove old pads from caliper, free up and lube the caliper bolts and slides, replace the pads (right and left and inside and outside are all different, get it right....), replace the clips, put it back together.

Some people like to rough up the new pads with light sandpaper before install, I don't do that. I also never replace the brake fluid unless I had to break open that sealed system (rebuild calipers, master cylinder, replace line, etc), or if I had a zillion miles on the vehicle. The worst rotors I ever got were from O'Reillys, they lasted 2 weeks on a Lincoln Mark I had, they warped so bad.
2017 Ford F-150 Crew Cab 4x4 3.5 EcoBoost
2014 Cruiser RV Fun Finder 215WKS
2015 Harley Road Glide Special in Amber Whiskey
2019 Mustang Bullitt
Yamaha Grizzly 660 (his)
Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O.(hers)

patperry2766
Explorer II
Explorer II
coolbreeze01 wrote:
Curious how many miles on your truck?


52k, but should have been done about 18 months ago. It's not too bad until the pads & rotors heat up.

All it took was one trip down Pike's Peak to jack them up, and that was even with me downshifting.

I'm gonna go with my gut instinct and replace the rotors.

Any thoughts on semi-metallic vs ceramic pads?
Courage is the feeling you have right before you fully understand the situation

RWDIII
Explorer
Explorer
patperry2766 wrote:
Power Stop rotors/pads

I have a 2013 Ford F-150 that I at the minimum need to have the front rotors turned and new brake pads due to warping.

I am considering just replacing with new rotors, and have been doing Internet research. I have seen this brand on several different websites and they get generally favorable reviews. I know that there are several other brands out there such as Wagner, Bosch, Duralast, etc.

While I drive a Ford, I would appreciate and suggestions or comments about any results, irregardless of it being a Ford, Chevy, Dodge, etc.


Been there and my F150 brake problems ended when I traded it in and got a F250
OLD 2006 F150 4wd 7200gvw,Lt275-65-18,Scan Guage,Garmin,flowmaster,load levelers,Firestone work rites Bronco 800

NEW 2015 F250 Scab 4wd 10000 gvw, 6.2 Scan guage,Garmin,work rites,3200 lb load,1800lb Palomino Backpack SS1200

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Explorer
Curious how many miles on your truck?
2008 Ram 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2014 Sandsport 26FBSL

carringb
Explorer
Explorer
It's probably not actually "warped" and there's way you can prevent the pulsing:

Warped Rotor Myth
2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
is it friday yet? wrote:
I replaced mine with Wagner parts. I just don't think its worth it to turn the rotors anymore. I order all my parts from Advance Auto Parts. Use a discount code from "Retail me not" and place your online order with Advance and go to the store to pick-up your parts an hour later. This has save me hundreds of dollars. You can place a couple orders and use different discount codes fyi.


Exactly what I do! Coupon codes are your friend no matter where you shop.

I'd definitely replace the rotors with higher end ones from an auto shop and you'll be fine. I have 40k on my rotors now, and absolutely no pulsation.

mtofell1
Explorer
Explorer
Another vote for replacing the rotors. Reading this is reminding of the why I went to a 2500 truck. Every half ton I owned absolutely tore through brakes. I've been down the warped rotor road and tried having them turned - 10K miles later the dreaded pulsating from the brake pedal was back.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
+1 for new rotors.

That kit should be fine. Don't forget to flush the brake fluid.

I have use Performance Friction brand and they seem to work better after warming up a bit. Lately I have been buying EBC yellow as they perform more like OEM only better friction characteristics.

I have not replaced a rotor in a long time. My truck has original rotors at 15 years and 190,000 miles. The more I read it seems the drilled and slotted is more gimmick and best to just get premium solid rotors. Can't speak for this as I have never tried them.

Motive Products makes a good pressure bleeder.

patperry2766
Explorer II
Explorer II
fj12ryder wrote:
I certainly wouldn't turn a warped rotor. If it warped before turning, you may have an even worse problem with it being thinner. Besides the price of rotors allows you to replace them without breaking the bank.

I would also go with Wagner brake parts, but my personal preference is with O'Reilly's. But that's mainly because there's one nearby and they're usually cheaper than Advance Auto Parts. I usually check Rock Auto also just to see if I can make it worth while with the shipping costs. They are usually much cheaper than locally, but the shipping charges usually kill any savings.


I'm really leaning on replacing everything. don't want to go thru this hassle again in another year or so.
Courage is the feeling you have right before you fully understand the situation