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Building my own truck camper

Rebic
Explorer
Explorer
Hello, I am new here and would like to introduce myself. My name is Ante and I would like to build a truck camper. I am a college student and have never built anything of these proportions, but I have a good knowledge of physics, some free time and determination. I am also willing to learn.

I am an honors student and in order to finish the program I need to do a project that stretches over 2 semesters. So I decided to build something that could last for travels after college. I got tired of tent camping.

Facts:

The program gives me $3000 and I am willing to invest some of my money. I have an option of buying things for almost a year before building it and I am will be attending a lot of garage sales and going to junkyards. Of course Ebay is also an option.

I have available my girlfriends 2013 F150 XLT 5.5' bed SuperCrew with the OEM towing package, aftermarket stiffer shocks and airbags. The camper should be within 1500 lbs.

Dimensions I have so far are 6.5ft long (in the bed), 8ft wide, 8 ft tall, with the overhang (over the cab) of 6ft.

I'm planing on making it out of lumber (2x4's primarily), and plywood walls on the inside (that give more support to the frame), insulation in the walls, and some kind of plastic on the exterior with a sealant. Jacks and tiedowns to the truck are a must! I would also like to have 3 outside storage compartments and a door.

I would like to have some solar panels, a 12V 100Ah deep cycle battery, led lighting, small refrigerator (already have), small microwave (already have), vents, power controller, wiring, 3-4 outlets, outside receptacle, and if money permits a small tv and an ac unit (those could be added in later years).

For water I only want a sink with a 15 gal tank and an electrical or manual water pump.

Also, I would like a propane cooking stove and a propane heater.

Other than those, I want some windows and an escape sunroof.

As for the interior goes, I want some cabinets, countertops, a bed, a seating area and a table. Other small things I might already have and are not necessities.

Questions:

Can you think of something that I am missing but is a necessity in a truck camper?

Do you think $3000 would be enough to build only the necessities and then later as money comes add other things?

Should I use pressure treated wood or not? As I understand those are not dry and I would have to wait for them to dry and they might not end up straight.

What is a good inexpensive way to cover the outside of the camper and protect the wood from moisture?

I have more questions that I cannot think of now. I will appreciate any kind of help! If you plan on telling me that the truck is small and that it will not be enough space in the camper I understand, but currently that's my best shot.
22 REPLIES 22

COboondocker
Explorer
Explorer
Read this entire build and do it exactly as he did. His is a steel subframe, 1x2's, 1/2" ply on the floor and 1/4" everywhere else. For a large longbed/flatbed camper his dry weight was right around 2000lbs. I'd say with your size difference you could possibly pull it off within your weight limitations.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1111870-idashos-idacamper2-0-a.html

youngm357
Explorer
Explorer
Don't put a window on the front of the cabover you will save weight and future leaks.

Eh1133
Explorer
Explorer
I am in NC. I have stove, fridge, tanks, sink, converter, etc. out of a 99 truck camper. Camper was damaged and I am scraping it out. You can have what ever you can use. Just have to pick it up. Let me know if I can help

work2much
Explorer
Explorer
It sounds like you better be nice to your girlfriend. ๐Ÿ˜‰ Good luck with the build and keep us posted with your project.
2022 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD DRW Crew 4x4 Aisin 4:10 Air ride.

2020 Grand Design Solitude 2930RL 2520 watts solar. 600ah lithium. Magnum 4000 watt inverter.

tempforce
Explorer
Explorer
2x4's will be too much weight.. most rv's are built using 2x2's and 1x2's. paneling on the inside and 1/4 or 3/8" for the lower walls and bed area. i would go to 5/8" for the bed area and floor. and use at least 1/4 for the roof, a better choice would be 3/8 or 1/2 so you can walk on it. laminating two 1/4" sheets after getting the first curved and screwed would be the best method. i would recommend a thin sheet of foam and a layer of paneling, a radiant barrier then your skin. either fiberglass or metal. use foam or fiberglass to insulate your walls. you will need to split r-13 insulation as it will be too thick. the roof use 2x3's or build trusses. insulate and use a radiant barrier. over the plywood. use fiberglass, metal or rubber on the roof. if using rubber, insure it is glued down very well. or it will lift and possible separate. you can pick up the windows, vents and doors from a rv salvage company. along with your lights and plumbing fixtures. sometimes they have the battery charger voltage regulator units available. they should have used solar panels and charge controllers. along with your shore power cables. pex plumbing is pretty much standard now. buying the tool is worth it, to get the fittings and clamp rings tight. look up some designs, they should have examples on building the dinette and drawers. or buy some used kitchen cabinets. a couple of staple guns are your best friend for building a rv. structures use screws and large staples 1-1.5" wide. 3/16- 1/4 staples for paneling. if you know how to weld aluminum, that will save you lots of weight compared to a wood frame.... remember weight is your enemy. you will go over your 1500 lbs, real easy.. have fun and post your progress.

somewhere in the texas 'lost pines'


currently without rv.
'13' Ford Fusion
'83' Ford Ranger with a 2.2 Diesel.
'56' Ford F100, 4.6 32 valve v8, crown vic front suspension.
downsizing from a 1 ton diesel and a 32' trailer, to a 19-21' trailer for the '56'.

rexlion
Explorer
Explorer
Pressure treated wood contains chemicals that should not be present in a closed, occupied space. Plastic exterior? Plastic tends to degrade in UV (sunlight) with relative rapidity. A skin of fiberglass with gelcoat would work better.

Most truck campers of similar dimensions weigh more, often quite a bit more, than 1500 lbs. Those that weigh less have bare-bones interiors, I think. Some of the really knowledgeable TC people will be along shortly, I'm sure, to add what they know.
Mike G.
Liberty is meaningless where the right to utter one's thoughts and opinions has ceased to exist. That, of all rights, is the dread of tyrants. --Frederick Douglass
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burningman
Explorer II
Explorer II
2x4s and plywood is going to produce a VERY heavy camper. Campers are generally built with much smaller lumber. I can't imagine you're going to meet your weight goal with such an overbuilt rig.
If I were scratch building I think I'd look for a rotted and/or damaged camper to obtain cheap for parts.
You'll get windows, a sink, a power converter, stove, jacks, lights (inside and outside) etc.
Otherwise I don't think you've got enough money, and I'm a resourceful type that does things a whole lot cheaper than almost everyone else on here.

I've been in a lot of junkyards, you won't likely find truck camper stuff there.
2017 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CD SE
99 Ram 4x4 Dually Cummins
A whole lot more fuel, a whole lot more boost.
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jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
Take a look at these two threads. They both created their own.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26735683.cfm

and this one

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28742455/gotomsg/28743332.cfm

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

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