Buying a new TC

[Mammoth501]

Hey, I'm new to this site and Joining the RV world 🙂 So I've got a 2020 Ram 3500 6.7 cummins SRW 6"4" box and ordered the 2021 Northern Lite 8-11 EXLE. There're 2 things that I'm kinda hung up on and can't decide. (1) Should I really get the A/C? I live in lower BC and the summers don't get to hot here. We might get 2-3 weeks of +30C (86f) but other than that it's bearable. So I was thinking of saving the weight and eventually more sealant and getting the A/C deleted. I'm just not familiar with a TC and don't know if it gets hotter than usual in a small rig like that.
(2) Do I need some kind of suspension upgrade? I should mention that the TC I'm getting has a dry weight of around 2800lb. So I was thinking of getting the torklift lower stableload as a start and then go from there. Or is that a waste of time and money?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

[run100]

This past February marked our 20-year anniversary of truck camping. The span of years has included two truck campers and two F350's. We added air bags to the first truck, but have been running our 2012 6.7 s/b stock. Both set-ups handled amazingly well - especially our current truck. Uphill, downhill, curvy roads and even high winds have never presented an issue. Honestly, it is extremely fun to drive and we did so again this week, with a couple days of mid-week camping.

Although each truck and camper combination will have different specs and characteristics, I also agree with others that suggest running stock, at first, to see if you're satisfied with how the rig handles.

Good luck with your upcoming purchase. Most of all - Be safe and have FUN!

[billtex]

JimK-NY wrote:

billtex wrote:


GVWR is pretty much meaningless for carrying a TC. Rear axle rating (tires/wheels) is what you need to pay attention to. I carry a much heavier camper on SRW F350 gasser. I am within my axle rating by several hundreds pounds on stock Michelin tires.
...... Bill

The GVWR is certainly not "meaningless". Typically that load rating is based on the load capacity of the tires. The stock tires for the OPs truck are 275/65r/18 with a load capacity of 3415 or a combined axle load of 6830. Replacing tires with a larger size might be the first step for upgrading but manufacturers often use rims that are similarly rated so it might be necessary to upgrade rims and wheels. That leaves the shocks and springs which were not designed for the heavier weight. That leads to another round of upgrades. Fact is the camper is too heavy for the truck the OP bought.

You are confusing RAWR with GVWR.

[noteven]

JimK-NY wrote:

noteven wrote:
But yes when you look at advertised base weight you add weight for factory options.

A little work with your dealer should make it possible to discover this info.

Unfortunately that depends on the manufacturer and whether they provide that data to the dealer or prospective buyer. Look at manufacturer specs and you will often see no mention of the weight of accessories.

In addition I have not seen dealers who are interested in warning or discussing the weight issue with prospective buyers.

I had to sign a waiver at time of delivery that the weight and center of gravity of the camper as equipped and what payload capacity truck was recommended was explained and discussed.

[JimK-NY]

noteven wrote:
But yes when you look at advertised base weight you add weight for factory options.

A little work with your dealer should make it possible to discover this info.

Unfortunately that depends on the manufacturer and whether they provide that data to the dealer or prospective buyer. Look at manufacturer specs and you will often see no mention of the weight of accessories.

In addition I have not seen dealers who are interested in warning or discussing the weight issue with prospective buyers.

[noteven]

But yes when you look at advertised base weight you add weight for factory options.

A little work with your dealer should make it possible to discover this info.

[noteven]

JimK-NY wrote:

noteven wrote:
The manufacturer weight placard for my Cirrus camper is very accurate.

The "placard" gives the dry weight of the specific completed unit. The OP is looking at advertised weights which are often much different because they do not include upgrades, options, modifications.

For my camper the advertised spec weight did not include the weight of the AC, microwave, or awnings. The specs also did not include the weight for an extended overhang to accommodate a queen sized bed.

Actually it lists and includes the base camper, plus fresh water, plus propane, plus 2.2 lbs of ice in the fridge, plus options: rear awning, roof racks, backup camera, solar kit, glow step, pass through window.

It is accurate.

[Bert_the_Welder]

Then on top of that, add the rarely mentioned components/brackets/fasteners that mount/hold all those components to the truck frame. Spec's of those would also go into the GVWR.

If you are just converting your truck camper to a shack and setting it down on a rear axle only, then the axle rating is going to be your primary consideration. Next would be keeping balanced while you get in and out......

[JimK-NY]

billtex wrote:


GVWR is pretty much meaningless for carrying a TC. Rear axle rating (tires/wheels) is what you need to pay attention to. I carry a much heavier camper on SRW F350 gasser. I am within my axle rating by several hundreds pounds on stock Michelin tires.
...... Bill

The GVWR is certainly not "meaningless". Typically that load rating is based on the load capacity of the tires. The stock tires for the OPs truck are 275/65r/18 with a load capacity of 3415 or a combined axle load of 6830. Replacing tires with a larger size might be the first step for upgrading but manufacturers often use rims that are similarly rated so it might be necessary to upgrade rims and wheels. That leaves the shocks and springs which were not designed for the heavier weight. That leads to another round of upgrades. Fact is the camper is too heavy for the truck the OP bought.

[JimK-NY]

noteven wrote:
The manufacturer weight placard for my Cirrus camper is very accurate.

The "placard" gives the dry weight of the specific completed unit. The OP is looking at advertised weights which are often much different because they do not include upgrades, options, modifications.

For my camper the advertised spec weight did not include the weight of the AC, microwave, or awnings. The specs also did not include the weight for an extended overhang to accommodate a queen sized bed.

[noteven]

The manufacturer weight placard for my Cirrus camper is very accurate.

[billtex]

JimK-NY wrote:

Mammoth501 wrote:
...
The camper will be somewhere around 3300lbs wet, that only gives me about 600lbs for stuff including the wife and me. GVWR on the truck is 11800 and the truck weighs about 7900........

I don't know, what do you guys think?

What I think is that your rig is going to be WAY overweight.

I would never trust the manufacturer "specs". They tend to be way under reality. For one reason, the specs do not typically include any options such as microwave/oven, awnings, generator, solar panels, etc. Don't forget any mods and accessories you might make. You will lose the tailgate weight but will more than make up for that with the weight of the tiedown brackets, fastguns, and bed mat. Then you need to consider the weight of "personal" items. Those typically hit more than 1000# and would include bedding, towels, clothing, toiletries, kitchen gear, tools, cleaning supplies, rope/extension cord, BBQ grill and fuel, chairs, folding table, camera/computer/hobby stuff, and food/drinks. Food and drinks are going to be much heavier than you think and the basics for a couple of people for a week or two can hit several hundred pounds.

Your rig is going to be overweight by at least 1000# and all of that excess is going to be on the rear axle. If you have time, I would rethink your choices for camper and/or truck. Forget that 90# AC unit, you have a much bigger issue with being 1000# overweight.

Yeah. OP should just stay home on the couch.

GVWR is pretty much meaningless for carrying a TC. Rear axle rating (tires/wheels) is what you need to pay attention to. I carry a much heavier camper on SRW F350 gasser. I am within my axle rating by several hundreds pounds on stock Michelin tires.
We travel all around North America . Always leave home with full fresh (50 gals) and whatever else we need. Weigh your setup fully loaded for a trip. You’ll be heavy, but I suspect that non-slide NL is much lighter than our EC.
Don’t stress.

Gotta go-heading out for last ski camping trip of 2021.
Safe travels, Bill

[JimK-NY]

Mammoth501 wrote:
...
The camper will be somewhere around 3300lbs wet, that only gives me about 600lbs for stuff including the wife and me. GVWR on the truck is 11800 and the truck weighs about 7900........

I don't know, what do you guys think?

What I think is that your rig is going to be WAY overweight.

I would never trust the manufacturer "specs". They tend to be way under reality. For one reason, the specs do not typically include any options such as microwave/oven, awnings, generator, solar panels, etc. Don't forget any mods and accessories you might make. You will lose the tailgate weight but will more than make up for that with the weight of the tiedown brackets, fastguns, and bed mat. Then you need to consider the weight of "personal" items. Those typically hit more than 1000# and would include bedding, towels, clothing, toiletries, kitchen gear, tools, cleaning supplies, rope/extension cord, BBQ grill and fuel, chairs, folding table, camera/computer/hobby stuff, and food/drinks. Food and drinks are going to be much heavier than you think and the basics for a couple of people for a week or two can hit several hundred pounds.

Your rig is going to be overweight by at least 1000# and all of that excess is going to be on the rear axle. If you have time, I would rethink your choices for camper and/or truck. Forget that 90# AC unit, you have a much bigger issue with being 1000# overweight.

[billtex]

Mammoth501 wrote:

zzyzxpat wrote:
I have a 2020 F350 4X4 SRW with an AF865. It has an 11,300 GVWR, the camper wet is about 4200#. I am over the GVWR by a few hundred pounds, but well within the axle ratings. I changed the tires to 4080# rated Coopers and feel I am good to go.
As everyone has said, drive it first. I have added a Helliwig BigWig sway bar which was a huge improvement, and Firestone air bags to level it to keep the headlights out of others eyes. I am still experimenting, the overloads do not contact the bumpers even with the camper on, so I have added 2" bumpers to get the overloads to work. Taking it out this weekend so we will see.[ /quote]

That sounds pretty close to what I figure mine will be like. I will be upgrading my tires for sure, I don’t trust the stock Firestone tires much. My rear axle is rated for 7000# and the front for 6000#. **** I keep going back n forth ?? to upgrade now or later

Your rear axle is limited by your tires. It is likely > 7000 lbs.

[Bert_the_Welder]

Mammoth501 wrote:
Thanks for all the input, it's really helped me make a decision. I've never really been a fan of A/C's and never needed them, but then again I've never been to the desert either 🙂 I'll go without it but have it prewired. 100lbs is not much but think how much more beer that is haha. I'm still a little hung up on the suspension problem. I know for a fact (looking at the numbers) that I will be pretty much maxing out my trucks payload capacity so I wonder if I should just get the lower torklift stableloafds or timbrens for now and use it for a while. Or maybe add a couple leafs would be worth it. It's a 6.5 hour drive for me when I pick it up so I just don't wanna run into problems half way though.

AH! East Kootenay I see. "Never been to the desert"?. Have ye not been to the So. Central in the summer laddy? Insufferable hell of a furnace it can be. Hateful sun. Drive through there during peak summer and all you have playing in your head is "The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly" theme!
Ha ha ha ha 🙂

I get the 6.5 hour drive thing and not wanting to be fu.....uneasy.
Two options:
First, give the boss at NL a call. Tell them what you got. They might just have first hand experience with your combo and be able to say, nope, don't need nothing or yeah, get this for sure and wait and see if you need XYZ later.
Second option, order the Stableload lowers. Bring them with. If you need them, you got them. If not, then you can return for a refund. Drive the combo around a bit. If you want them, re order them.
But it's your budget and your comfort level. Take us with a grain of salt.
And be sure to fill us in on how it goes and what you did or didn't add. Nothing worse then not getting closure on a show.