Hey, I'm new to this site and Joining the RV world :) So I've got a 2020 Ram 3500 6.7 cummins SRW 6"4" box and ordered the 2021 Northern Lite 8-11 EXLE. There're 2 things that I'm kinda hung up on and can't decide. (1) Should I really get the A/C? I live in lower BC and the summers don't get to hot here. We might get 2-3 weeks of +30C (86f) but other than that it's bearable. So I was thinking of saving the weight and eventually more sealant and getting the A/C deleted. I'm just not familiar with a TC and don't know if it gets hotter than usual in a small rig like that. (2) Do I need some kind of suspension upgrade? I should mention that the TC I'm getting has a dry weight of around 2800lb. So I was thinking of getting the torklift lower stableload as a start and then go from there. Or is that a waste of time and money? Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

Mammoth that sounds like sound thinking. I too am new. I was looking at the 8-11 also but went with the Wolf Creek 890, which is 500? lbs lighter so I don't plan on doing any up grades. I already have the helper springs. You will know straight off if you do need/want to upgrade. That is a top of the line camper have fun with it!

You will be spending a lot of money. I expect that there will still be hole for a vent if you delele the AC. You probably don’t know if you’ll end up hanging out at Okanogan, etc or not when the weather turns unnormally hot. I’d get the AC, but do get the low profile model which is quite a lot shorter in height.We don’t use our AC a lot, but I do remember stoppping near Yellowstone and on one of those hot nights it was 95 F at dark. Obviously, just a fan would have never cooled off for sleep.Fyi, I got my first TC, but not first RV almost 15 years ago. A lot has changed including the truck, but I still have the same TC. So, I’d say buy an AC to future proof the rig.

Mammoth501 wrote: So I was thinking of saving the weight and eventually more sealant and getting the A/C deleted. Never owned a truck camper, but suspect the AC to be the same as other RVs. Most ACs have a dependable roof gasket, that requires no additional sealant. The weight savings is not much either, so I would recommend getting the AC. Just needing it once in a while, you will be glad you have it.Jerry

We live in New England and ordered our current Eagle Cap sans AC. Don’t need it here and the weight up high won’t help handling.We do have a fantastic fan that is great. If it does get hot turn fan on exhaust and crack the small slider window, or bedroom windows at night, you’d be surprised how well that works.We boondock a lot also, so AC won’t really help us. The ceiling fan runs on 12V.As far us suspension, NL (nice camper BTW) aren’t all that heavy. You’ll probably be fine with the one ton. You can always add Stableloads later if you think you need them.Congrats!

I’ve had 5 truck campers over the years. 8ft no cab over, Kodiak, Snowbird with slide, Alaskan, Cirrus.Try without A/C because in BC there are lots of trees in the way of the scenery but the positive is you can get in the shade. Order A/c pre wire from the factory in case you want to install a roof one in the future. You will want an efficient 2way fan mounted somewhere.Use the camper with the truck before you spend $1 on “upgrades”. Today’s trucks are pretty capable. Use the $$ and time for travellin’ and truck campin in places and elevations where it cools off at night...PS - if you like to camp in the trees I would be tempted to get a quote on a pair of “branch rails” like expedition trucks have along the edge of the roof to help keep tree branches off the body work of the camper.

Buying a new TC | Good Sam Community

run100
Explorer
Apr 03, 2021
This past February marked our 20-year anniversary of truck camping. The span of years has included two truck campers and two F350's. We added air bags to the first truck, but have been running our 2012 6.7 s/b stock. Both set-ups handled amazingly well - especially our current truck. Uphill, downhill, curvy roads and even high winds have never presented an issue. Honestly, it is extremely fun to drive and we did so again this week, with a couple days of mid-week camping.

Although each truck and camper combination will have different specs and characteristics, I also agree with others that suggest running stock, at first, to see if you're satisfied with how the rig handles.

Good luck with your upcoming purchase. Most of all - Be safe and have FUN!
billtex
Explorer II
Apr 02, 2021
JimK-NY wrote:
billtex wrote:

GVWR is pretty much meaningless for carrying a TC. Rear axle rating (tires/wheels) is what you need to pay attention to. I carry a much heavier camper on SRW F350 gasser. I am within my axle rating by several hundreds pounds on stock Michelin tires.
...... Bill

The GVWR is certainly not "meaningless". Typically that load rating is based on the load capacity of the tires. The stock tires for the OPs truck are 275/65r/18 with a load capacity of 3415 or a combined axle load of 6830. Replacing tires with a larger size might be the first step for upgrading but manufacturers often use rims that are similarly rated so it might be necessary to upgrade rims and wheels. That leaves the shocks and springs which were not designed for the heavier weight. That leads to another round of upgrades. Fact is the camper is too heavy for the truck the OP bought.

You are confusing RAWR with GVWR.
noteven
Explorer III
Apr 02, 2021
JimK-NY wrote:
noteven wrote:
But yes when you look at advertised base weight you add weight for factory options.

A little work with your dealer should make it possible to discover this info.

Unfortunately that depends on the manufacturer and whether they provide that data to the dealer or prospective buyer. Look at manufacturer specs and you will often see no mention of the weight of accessories.

In addition I have not seen dealers who are interested in warning or discussing the weight issue with prospective buyers.

I had to sign a waiver at time of delivery that the weight and center of gravity of the camper as equipped and what payload capacity truck was recommended was explained and discussed.
JimK-NY
Explorer II
Apr 01, 2021
noteven wrote:
But yes when you look at advertised base weight you add weight for factory options.

A little work with your dealer should make it possible to discover this info.

Unfortunately that depends on the manufacturer and whether they provide that data to the dealer or prospective buyer. Look at manufacturer specs and you will often see no mention of the weight of accessories.

In addition I have not seen dealers who are interested in warning or discussing the weight issue with prospective buyers.
noteven
Explorer III
Apr 01, 2021
But yes when you look at advertised base weight you add weight for factory options.

A little work with your dealer should make it possible to discover this info.
noteven
Explorer III
Apr 01, 2021
JimK-NY wrote:
noteven wrote:
The manufacturer weight placard for my Cirrus camper is very accurate.

The "placard" gives the dry weight of the specific completed unit. The OP is looking at advertised weights which are often much different because they do not include upgrades, options, modifications.

For my camper the advertised spec weight did not include the weight of the AC, microwave, or awnings. The specs also did not include the weight for an extended overhang to accommodate a queen sized bed.

Actually it lists and includes the base camper, plus fresh water, plus propane, plus 2.2 lbs of ice in the fridge, plus options: rear awning, roof racks, backup camera, solar kit, glow step, pass through window.

It is accurate.
Bert_the_Welder
Explorer II
Apr 01, 2021
Then on top of that, add the rarely mentioned components/brackets/fasteners that mount/hold all those components to the truck frame. Spec's of those would also go into the GVWR.

If you are just converting your truck camper to a shack and setting it down on a rear axle only, then the axle rating is going to be your primary consideration. Next would be keeping balanced while you get in and out......
JimK-NY
Explorer II
Apr 01, 2021
billtex wrote:

GVWR is pretty much meaningless for carrying a TC. Rear axle rating (tires/wheels) is what you need to pay attention to. I carry a much heavier camper on SRW F350 gasser. I am within my axle rating by several hundreds pounds on stock Michelin tires.
...... Bill

The GVWR is certainly not "meaningless". Typically that load rating is based on the load capacity of the tires. The stock tires for the OPs truck are 275/65r/18 with a load capacity of 3415 or a combined axle load of 6830. Replacing tires with a larger size might be the first step for upgrading but manufacturers often use rims that are similarly rated so it might be necessary to upgrade rims and wheels. That leaves the shocks and springs which were not designed for the heavier weight. That leads to another round of upgrades. Fact is the camper is too heavy for the truck the OP bought.
JimK-NY
Explorer II
Apr 01, 2021
noteven wrote:
The manufacturer weight placard for my Cirrus camper is very accurate.

The "placard" gives the dry weight of the specific completed unit. The OP is looking at advertised weights which are often much different because they do not include upgrades, options, modifications.

For my camper the advertised spec weight did not include the weight of the AC, microwave, or awnings. The specs also did not include the weight for an extended overhang to accommodate a queen sized bed.
noteven
Explorer III
Apr 01, 2021
The manufacturer weight placard for my Cirrus camper is very accurate.

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