We stayed at Ocean Waves and enjoyed it, at Waves NC. Right behind the dunes.
Clicky for Ocean WavesAlso had fun dry camping at the NPS Ocracoke campground, again built just behind the dunes. When we were there in 2011, you could reserve, but not site specific...you picked your site and advised the entry ranger. May still be that way.
A real highlight for me was seeing lighthouses. Bodie Island has reopened for climbs, I think. Met the elderly son of the last light keeper there - he sometimes volunteers for the NPS at the little museum. Hatteras is beautiful. Ocracoke lighthouse is not open for visiting but you can park at the tiny lot and take pics.
I also liked the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum on Hatteras near the ferry to Ocracoke. German cipher machine brought up by divers from a sub wreck, other interesting stuff.
On Ocracoke, the village is great for exploring on foot. There's an English Cemetery there, sailors lost during WWII.
If you enjoy researching before trips, a Web site - the.lostlight.com - has some great books about the region by NC writer Kevin P. Duffus.
Kevin Duffus siteI heard him speak at our library annual meeting about the war off the NC coast and it was fascinating.
Added with edit: Kevin Duffus has a great soft cover book about the shipwrecks off the beach; we actually saw old ship's timbers visible in the shifting sand on the beach just across the road from Bodie Island Lighthouse. The state has marked some of these old wreck remnants.