Can't believe my payload is so low.

SidecarFlip wrote:
We all tend to forget that internal components like axle bearings and internal gearing as well as U joints, when taken past their design limits or run at close to their design limits, tend to fail sooner.

GeoBoy wrote:
I can’t believe Jaycocreek hasn’t been all over this discussion.:B

3 tons wrote:

mbloof wrote:

JoshL wrote:
I've decided I want to for sure and certain get a truck camper. I've been reading and researching for about two weeks now. Looking at what I want, the sizes, the weights. Plugging numbers into the weight calculator. Weighed my truck and blah blah.

It seems like my 2007.5 Chevy diesel 2500HD has a very low payload. 1468 lbs to be exact!I should've broken this truck years ago if that is in anyway accurate.

Just last week I hauled 2000 lbs of sack-crete in it. And for nearly 6 months I was hauling 2900 lbs of water in it about 2-3 times a week!

I'm just about to say heck with it all. :R

Lets see if my memory works. :)

1 ton = 2000lbs

3/4 ton = 1500lbs

Sounds like the payload on the truck is fairly close. :)


- Mark0

For those who actually pay attention, the above referenced tonnage ratings have no basis in fact with today's truck offerings...Today, even a properly configured half ton may have a rating of over a ton.

mbloof wrote:

JoshL wrote:
I've decided I want to for sure and certain get a truck camper. I've been reading and researching for about two weeks now. Looking at what I want, the sizes, the weights. Plugging numbers into the weight calculator. Weighed my truck and blah blah.

It seems like my 2007.5 Chevy diesel 2500HD has a very low payload. 1468 lbs to be exact!I should've broken this truck years ago if that is in anyway accurate.

Just last week I hauled 2000 lbs of sack-crete in it. And for nearly 6 months I was hauling 2900 lbs of water in it about 2-3 times a week!

I'm just about to say heck with it all. :R

Lets see if my memory works. :)

1 ton = 2000lbs

3/4 ton = 1500lbs

Sounds like the payload on the truck is fairly close. :)


- Mark0

bighatnohorse wrote:

jimh425 wrote:
The question is do you want to ignore the sticker or not. From what everyone guesses, 2500s are derated to stay under the 10000 lb GVWR. For the most part, tires are the limiting factor on what you can carry in the rear on 2500 and 3500s. So, that’s (2 x tire capacity) - weight on rear.

Also, passenger vehicles tend to include the weight of the passengers in the calculation of what TC you can carry at 150 lbs for each seat being filled.

Still, if you want significant more ability to carry, you should upgrade your tires, or switch to a DRW. Upgrading the tires on a SRW won’t make it stop faster, but will significantly decrease the chance of a blowout.

Finally, search for other recent threads to get more ideas.

The above is really good advice.
Most truck GVWR's are based on their tire and rim load capacity. And the axle rating as it comes from the axle manufacturer (which is not Chevy, Ford or Ram) is usually much, much higher than what is posted on the door frame sticker.

jimh425 wrote:
The question is do you want to ignore the sticker or not. From what everyone guesses, 2500s are derated to stay under the 10000 lb GVWR. For the most part, tires are the limiting factor on what you can carry in the rear on 2500 and 3500s. So, that’s (2 x tire capacity) - weight on rear.

Also, passenger vehicles tend to include the weight of the passengers in the calculation of what TC you can carry at 150 lbs for each seat being filled.

Still, if you want significant more ability to carry, you should upgrade your tires, or switch to a DRW. Upgrading the tires on a SRW won’t make it stop faster, but will significantly decrease the chance of a blowout.

Finally, search for other recent threads to get more ideas.