Check engine

[samsontdog]

I started my 2003 F250 Ford V10 eng with 105K miles. One owner, looks new. The check eng light came on and stayed on. I took it into the Ford place here in Yuma and 3 hrs later they said I need a new computer. Cost will be $700.00 WOW. At 100K miles I had a complete tune up as I did not want to pay over $40K for a new P/Up
That was $900 for new hoses, new brakes, trans flushed, rad flushed.
new plugs plus other things. Now I wished that I had sold it last year as I was offered $15K Oh well, after I get back to Calif I WILL sell it. I never in the past kept any Vehicle with over 75K miles
Anybody have computer problem on there Tow V ?

[enblethen]

Now we know the codes.
Did you have Autozone clear them?
Did they come back?

[enblethen]

UpdateThe OP does seem to want to respond about having someone else read codes.
Update: OP has just replied back on new thread.

[LIKE2BUILD]

carringb wrote:
If the computer was bad, I would expect much more than a check engine light. As in, it probably wouldn't even run.

Something smells fishy....

I'd certainly get a second opinion.

That's my vote. Someone else said go to O'Reilly, Autozone, PepBoys...any of the shops like these will hand you a scan tool and let you read your codes for free. Many of them will even look up the reported codes for you and tell you what components are reported bad.

It is possible there is a fault in the ECM that might require replacement. But I agree if your 'computer is bad' diagnosis is correct you'd most likely experience all kinds of running issues.

Read the codes and do some searching for yourself before buying into such a generic diagnosis and description.

KJ

[falconbrother]

If I'm away from home and get a check engine light I will always carry a code reader (or you can go to Auto Zone, Orileys, Advance, etc..). If it's running good I will fix it myself or wait till I get home.

[Grit_dog]

JALLEN4 wrote:
I really wish I could have hired some of these "key board" mechanics when I was a dealer. It is amazing how they know more than a trained mechanic all with a description on the internet without even being in the same State as the truck. How do they think the mechanic working on it made the diagnosis...he read the codes. He installs a new computer and it either fixes the problem or not. If it does, pay the man and go home. If it doesn't, they can't charge you and then they need to go back to work. Simply make the agreement before they do the work. If you can't afford the repair, keep driving it until it stops.

Well, the tech may be right, but the OP sounds like he knows absolutely nothing about vehicle mechanics, whereas the dealer not only knows about mechanics, they also know a sucker walking thru the door.

I'm just a shade tree mechanic who hasn't worked in the profession since cars had carbeurators but I've also experienced a few bad "computers" or control modules and the common thread was that the vehicle did not run or run properly.
If his runs well, its worth investigating further.

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

Me Again wrote:

JALLEN4 wrote:
I really wish I could have hired some of these "key board" mechanics when I was a dealer. It is amazing how they know more than a trained mechanic all with a description on the internet without even being in the same State as the truck. How do they think the mechanic working on it made the diagnosis...he read the codes. He installs a new computer and it either fixes the problem or not. If it does, pay the man and go home. If it doesn't, they can't charge you and then they need to go back to work. Simply make the agreement before they do the work. If you can't afford the repair, keep driving it until it stops.

You are right a 900 dollar computer was bad along with a 39 dollar sensor we found bad after installing the new computer. Your bill is $939 plus tax. :S :S :S

BTW dealer mark up on the computer is $450 and on the sensor $19.50.

Someone gets it. 🙂
And my ex-boss had a room full of bad parts for people that wanted their parts back. :B

[Me_Again]

JALLEN4 wrote:
I really wish I could have hired some of these "key board" mechanics when I was a dealer. It is amazing how they know more than a trained mechanic all with a description on the internet without even being in the same State as the truck. How do they think the mechanic working on it made the diagnosis...he read the codes. He installs a new computer and it either fixes the problem or not. If it does, pay the man and go home. If it doesn't, they can't charge you and then they need to go back to work. Simply make the agreement before they do the work. If you can't afford the repair, keep driving it until it stops.

You are right a 900 dollar computer was bad along with a 39 dollar sensor we found bad after installing the new computer. Your bill is $939 plus tax. :S :S :S

BTW dealer mark up on the computer is $450 and on the sensor $19.50.

[JALLEN4]

I really wish I could have hired some of these "key board" mechanics when I was a dealer. It is amazing how they know more than a trained mechanic all with a description on the internet without even being in the same State as the truck. How do they think the mechanic working on it made the diagnosis...he read the codes. He installs a new computer and it either fixes the problem or not. If it does, pay the man and go home. If it doesn't, they can't charge you and then they need to go back to work. Simply make the agreement before they do the work. If you can't afford the repair, keep driving it until it stops.

[Sport45]

I agree with Grit Dog. You've already spent $900 on a wallet flush. It's time to stop the bleeding and figure out what you really need.

[Grit_dog]

samsontdog wrote:
I went on line and found a rebuilt computer for my P/Up $299 plus shipping
3 yr warranty I wonder how hard to change one out?

How do you know which one it is? Does your truck have an ECM, TCM, BCM?
Since you don't know anything about this, you're going to be dumping money down the drain. And re-furnished solid state devices like this are/could be suspect.

However, as suggested, open your ears and listen to the advice given by others.
Take it to the nearest parts store and borrow their code reader. Check codes, write them down and do a little research first.

I'm being a bit Sarcastic, but trying to lead you to the most efficient and least costly answer.
This is an ok place to ask mech advice, but better yet, get the codes and try a vehicle specific forum. And be prepared to provide some more info than "the tech said the whole thing is fried".

[enblethen]

OP:
Why does it see that you have some resistance about having someone else check the codes or is it my imagination?

[Me_Again]

Stop buy Franklin Auto 1845 S Arizona Ave, Yuma, AZ 85364, and see if they can read the code and tell you what is going on. I would have the code reset and see if it comes back again. I had brake work done there two years ago.

My dad got the short end of the deal several times from a car dealer in Yuma.

Chris

[RAS43]

Yak wrote:

carringb wrote:

samsontdog wrote:
I went on line and found a rebuilt computer for my P/Up $299 plus shipping
3 yr warranty I wonder how hard to change one out?

Takes about 5 minute a 9 mm socket.

Nothing on a Ford takes a 9mm socket. A new PCM is blank and has to be programmed

This!

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

samsontdog wrote:
The Tech said it shorted every thing out. I asked "Why does it still run good? "
He said "**** happens" This was at the Ford Dealership in Yuma

More like BS happens. Engines don't run good with "everything shorted out." In fact, they don't run at all! The tech is yanking your crank.