chevy suburban

I might be unique here on my experience. I have two - 2004 k2500 8.1L Suburbans currently. Both are even white! The only difference between them is one has the lift gate, the other has the barn doors.

Both will open while hooked up to my trailer. I do have an electric jack that is fairly short on my trailer. Close, but it does clear.

Not sure which one I like the most. It is nice to use the barn doors because you can open only one side. I never have bumped my head on the barn doors (I am tall). It is nice to be able to pop the lift glass on the tailgate version and put stuff in the back. Or open the lift gate and be able to be out of the rain while loading groceries. It is easier to pull the burb into the garage a bit further and still be able to get in the back with the barn doors, the lift gate requires much more room to open it. Visibility with the hatch is better due to no center obstruction. hatch also has a windshield wiper, which is nice. Groceries that have shifted have never fallen out of the back when I only opened the hatch glass. I have had some 2 liters roll out when the barn door is opened up and explode. That was fun, mainly because it was my wife and not me who opened the door.

they both have pros and cons. I guess if I found the burb I wanted, I would not let either option stop me from buying it. Then again, I have proved that by owning both I guess.

Oh, and rust not sure. My 94 had doors, never rusted. My 99 the tailgate bottom rusted out and I had to replace it. 2004 both are rust free, one is not driven on streets in winter as it is left hooked to the camper for mobility.

Good luck

Have had both, and could open either one while hitched. The advantage of the liftgate is if you are loading groceries or something while it is raining, the liftgate acts like an umbrella.

Get the black one. They look like you're a G-man.

I have barn doors and like them. When I think of Suburbans I think of barn doors...they just go together to me.

6.0 3.73 4x4 lt3 leather. Dual buckets and sunroof. Oh how I wish it had a big block.

Our 2004 Yukon XL 2500 SLT with 3rd row bench, 2wd, 8.1L, 4.10 geared, 8600 GVW and stickered payload is 2440# and the maximum trailer weight is 12,000# and GCWR is 19,000#. I don't believe GM ever made a more capable full-size SUV than this configuration. It gets 10.3mpg combined driving or towing our ~7200# loaded TT. Doesn't matter and it doesn't sweat the hills either!

I haul wood, dead deer, tow camper, and jon boat. Occasionally 3 rows for the mother in law.

K2500 subs were built with towing upgrades to the transmission, axles, suspension, engine, lt tires, ect.


Glamper Denali 1/2 ton AWD have a 6.2 but lack the 2500 upgrades.

The k2500 is currently dead due rear crunch zone/irreplaceable hitch and unable to tow heavy tongue weight.

I want one with barn doors they are a lot easier to load and unload heavy loads with a forklift.

I recommend a 2001 to 2006 2500 Suburban/YukXL 8.1L to tow. (If you can find one)
After that, 2008 to 2013 2500 6.0L with 4.10 axle.
The 1500 Subs/Yuks don't have much payload. Especially if you're carrying a family.