ClassA to small TT set up.

[Gjac]

I have been looking at selling my Class A and downsizing to a small TT with a slide(18-24ft). Those of you that have, did you find the setup of backing into a site and leveling the TT much more difficult over disconnecting a tow and using HYD jacks to level? I looked at several last week and found out that the scissor jacks don't level the TT only stabilize it and was told I still needed wood or leggo blocks under the tires. Can't heavier scissor jacks be installed or is driving up on blocks not that big of a deal? I was also told I needed a sway hitch and would be better of getting a combo WDH and sway. I know that FW capacity is less but see several with 40 to 58 gals. I am assuming that the truck bed would make up for lack of basement storage. Is there any other issues that I need to under stand before switching. My wife and I are both 73. I bought the Class A at age 58 and put over 100K miles on it but my wife never liked the huge vehicle or going around mountainous curves with it.

[AJR]

Gjac

For me hooking and unhooking a car is allot easier than a TT. I ended up with a class C because there are two steps to get into it and three doors to get out of it. It is so nice to pull up to a gas pump and just open the door and get out.

Plus I found a floorplan I like that is very livable with the slide in. It also has more inside & outside storage than I will ever use because I travel alone with my dog.

Should you consider a class C. If possible drive the same unit on a Ford & Chevy chassis. I have found the Chevy handles cross winds better.

[Gjac]

AJR wrote:
OP, I would look at the OD RV 21RVS. I only suggest this because it has a bigger shower and a 60x80 queen bed.

As far as auto leveling goes. I would call the company and ask. The truth is I had a 2004 Arctic Fox 22H, made by the same family, and took it from Wisconsin to Alaska and then to Maine then back to Wisconsin in one year and never had a problem with it other than the poop valve started to drip. For one person & a dog it was a great TT. Why? Because you parked it and everything inside was ready to use without slides and you knew you would be comfortable, hot or cold outside.

I know one would have to take a trip west to get one. Well worth the time and effort.

Just a thought… If I were to go to a TT again. I would be looking for a heavy duty window van of some kind as a TV. A 4x4 if there is such a thing.

I see you have a Leprechaun Class C. What made you switch to a class C? Was it easier to set up than the TT? While looking at Class B's and B pluses I noticed a 2019 Leprechaun 230 CB is was about the same size as the Regency B plus about 24 ft, about the same height, a little wider but a shorter WB. It also had a lot more room inside, water, and a lot of storage. The rear storage bay was huge add could hold 2 bikes. It had the Ford 350 chassis and did not ride as well as the B's but was much cheaper. To me it seemed like a good trade off to go with the small C with no slide for about 30% less money.

[AJR]

OP, I would look at the OD RV 21RVS. I only suggest this because it has a bigger shower and a 60x80 queen bed.

As far as auto leveling goes. I would call the company and ask. The truth is I had a 2004 Arctic Fox 22H, made by the same family, and took it from Wisconsin to Alaska and then to Maine then back to Wisconsin in one year and never had a problem with it other than the poop valve started to drip. For one person & a dog it was a great TT. Why? Because you parked it and everything inside was ready to use without slides and you knew you would be comfortable, hot or cold outside.

I know one would have to take a trip west to get one. Well worth the time and effort.

Just a thought… If I were to go to a TT again. I would be looking for a heavy duty window van of some kind as a TV. A 4x4 if there is such a thing.

[GravelRider]

I'm still very new to TTs, and have actually only leveled a few times since buying mine, and did so with some 1x6 blocks I cut. It worked fine, but was a pain getting the right height for leveling. Then a friend turned me on to Anderson levelers. I bought a set and am sold! So easy. Just back onto them and keep going until it's side-to-side level! I am keeping a few 1x6 planks just in case I find that I need more height at certain spots.

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S

Check out the video on the Amazon ad.

[Gjac]

AJR wrote:
If I were to go back to a TT. I would get an Outdoors RV. As said above they really have all the right features. Auto leveling option would be a must have.

But I there is no way I am going back to a F250 ¾ ton diesel for my daily driver.

I looked at these TT's on line early on they have 78 gals of FW and a good frame construction, the Creekside 21KVS is the one I liked but not sold where I live and a little longer than I wanted. I did not see where they added auto leveling for this model. I would not want a HD truck either for my DD that is one reason a small (18-24ft) TT looked like a good option.

[AJR]

If I were to go back to a TT. I would get an Outdoors RV. As said above they really have all the right features. Auto leveling option would be a must have.

But I there is no way I am going back to a F250 ¾ ton diesel for my daily driver.

[TurnThePage]

I am quite happy with my Equal-I-zer brand hitch just for the reason that the entire assembly can stay attached to the tow vehicle for the duration of the outing. I do cover it with something bright to avoid running into it with my shins. That benefits others too. 🙂 I think some other brands emulate their setup now too.

Somebody else already mentioned Outdoors RVs. Their newest models offer a self leveling system, and they all come with dual pane windows, good insulation, and fairly large fresh water and waste tanks.

[GrandpaKip]

You’re welcome.
Here’s hoping you find a good solution.

[Gjac]

GrandpaKip wrote:
A lot of folks remove the hitch from the truck when in camp. Some of those weigh upwards of 100 pounds.
I also remove mine, but it weighs about 35 pounds.
You also can leave the hitch in the receiver and use a locking hitch pin.
As far as leveling side to side, I use a pair of homemade Andersen type levelers. I have a level on the front driver’s side of the camper that I can see in the mirror. Makes leveling about as simple as can be.
We can set up or break down in 30 minutes or so.

Thanks for the explanation. I just assumed that hitch always stayed with the truck and did not realize they were that heavy. I was thinking folks were talking about the hitch that is on the trailer. I trailer a 19 ft boat and lifting it to put it on the ball is very heavy

[GrandpaKip]

A lot of folks remove the hitch from the truck when in camp. Some of those weigh upwards of 100 pounds.
I also remove mine, but it weighs about 35 pounds.
You also can leave the hitch in the receiver and use a locking hitch pin.
As far as leveling side to side, I use a pair of homemade Andersen type levelers. I have a level on the front driver’s side of the camper that I can see in the mirror. Makes leveling about as simple as can be.
We can set up or break down in 30 minutes or so.

[Gjac]

prichardson wrote:
Yes you need blocks under the tires for side to side leveling as TTs are not designed to be lifted by the stabilizers. As far as heavy hitch assy.; it does not need to be removed from the truck. In fact on an overnight stop you don't even need to unhitch unless front to back leveling is grossly off. It shouldn't take any longer to get a TT on the road than a class A with a toad. It all depends on how complicated you make it for yourself on either rig. I can be on the road with my TT is less than 30 minutes and I have friends that can take half the morning getting their class A ready.

I guess the devil is in the details. I still don't understand what makes the hitch heavy? Are people referring to removing the anti sway bars? You don't have to physically lift the hitch to position it on the ball like a boat trailer do you?

[prichardson]

Yes you need blocks under the tires for side to side leveling as TTs are not designed to be lifted by the stabilizers. As far as heavy hitch assy.; it does not need to be removed from the truck. In fact on an overnight stop you don't even need to unhitch unless front to back leveling is grossly off. It shouldn't take any longer to get a TT on the road than a class A with a toad. It all depends on how complicated you make it for yourself on either rig. I can be on the road with my TT is less than 30 minutes and I have friends that can take half the morning getting their class A ready.

[Gjac]

K Charles wrote:
We went from a TT to a class A because the hitch was heavy. We had electric stabilizers and Jack but setup was getting hard for two old folks. I can unhook the toad in just a couple minutes.

When you say the hitch was heavy, doesn't the front jack lift the hitch off the ball? Or do you mean you have to lift and move the TT hitch to position it over the ball on the truck?

[AJR]

Around age 70 I went from a 22’ TT to a 36’ class A. I did not like the change and went to a 28’ class C and now a 29’ class C.

The TT was becoming more difficult to set up and tear down for me. We all age differently. Now on a bad day I still can hook or unhook the toad in less than 15 minutes. Plus, like the TT, there are only two steps to get into the rig.