I have a 06 Dodge CTD, it started shuddering in low gears, and intermittantly would have trouble maintaining highway speeds. I suspected it was a transmission problem, I took it to the Dodge dealer for a diagnosis. They say the tranny is good, (it has an aftermarket TC). The diagnosis came back that the Turbo needs to be replaced. Price about $2200...Looking for advice, opinions, experience.1. What would have caused this? Did I do something to damage it?2. Is $2200 a reasonable price?3. I know with Tranny replacement, there are several things to consider, converter, shaft, etc... any considerations with this?4. Is there a "favorite" brand of turbo that I need?Thanks

Turbo should last several hundred thousand miles. The only thing I can think of is do you just shut it down after a hard pull? If you don't let the turbo cool down for a few minutes after its been working very hard, the oil in it will coke and eventually it will plug the oil passage enough that it may start to starve it for oil. An EGT gauge is good for knowing when to shut it off - preferably below 300 degrees.Otherwise it may have just been a latent failure.BTW, $2200 at a dealer isn't a bad price at all. You could probably get it done cheaper at an independent shop though.

If you are willing to turn some wrenches, you can order a rebuilt unit here for about $1200:http://oregonfuelinjection.com/index.php?pid=15#TURBOCHARGERSYou need the 4043600. Or for more HP use the IIS PS6280CR instead.

There's a guy down in Georgia that can repair your Ford 6.0... Oh wait this is a Cummins. Nevermind. :BI'm sure the Dodge guys will chime in to help soon. :)The only turbo I've seen on a Cummins is a Holeset. I'm guessing your'e asking about a rebuilder for yours?

If you are willing to turn some wrenches, you can order a rebuilt unit here for about $1200: http://oregonfuelinjection.com/index.php?pid=15#TURBOCHARGERS You need the 4043600. Or for more HP use the IIS PS6280CR instead. I'm willing, but time is limited, is it a big job with technical adjustments? or is it as simple as changing an alternator?

$2200.00 that's installed? You can get aftermarket turbos with slightly larger intake and exhaust, which would run a little cooler add some horsepower and increase milelage, for $500-600 less then what dealer wants...that's assuming price quoted is for turbo only. But as suggested, if yer handy with tools, its not that difficult a job. On a scale of 1-10 (1 being easy...) I would say a 6. Mostly due to lifting and holding turbo,exhaust manifold in place while installing manifold bolts.You can pm me for more install info...job is more physical then technical.

Dodge Turbo Problems | Good Sam Community

Trail-Mate
Explorer
Aug 20, 2013
The Waste Gate being stuck can cause shudder. To get the High Boost it must be stuck Closed, That will cause excessive heat there and crack the housing also reverse pressure at the Air Box. All of these conditions were present when I did the work my sons 2002. I would replace it. Do some searches, We found an online site and got a replacement for about $550 for the 2002. Was a rebuilt unit.
DirtyOil
Explorer
Aug 20, 2013
I ran a boost fooler on my aftermarket turbo for yrs on the 2005, never had an issue, never threw any codes. You'll be fine with the "fooler". OEM turbo will max out at 30 lbs, which you most likely will never see anyways, unless you install supporting aftermarket goodies.. i.e. bigger injectors, more fuel... etc...
Wiley75
Explorer
Aug 19, 2013
MOREDLEG wrote:
OK, Here is the latest.

I took it to another shop, diagnosis for the shudder was worn out U Joints. Had those fixed, shudder is gone.

Diagnosis for the low power is the "wastegate is stuck" And the sensor is reading high boost. They measured it at 22 lbs. I could replace the Turbo, or install a boost fooler for $80. THats what I did. What can you tell me about boost foolers.

Don't put a fooler in. That is a Band-Aid fix at best. Basically just a Zener Diode. I haven't disassembled the turbo that you are describing. But I've disassembled plenty of other ones. The waste-gate is typically a pretty simple valve mechanism. I'd try pulling the turbo and investigating the waste-gate itself and the waste-gate actuator to see if a simpler solution to the problem exists.
wilber1
Explorer
Aug 17, 2013
MOREDLEG wrote:
OK, Here is the latest.

I took it to another shop, diagnosis for the shudder was worn out U Joints. Had those fixed, shudder is gone.

Diagnosis for the low power is the "wastegate is stuck" And the sensor is reading high boost. They measured it at 22 lbs. I could replace the Turbo, or install a boost fooler for $That'sHats what I did. What can you tell me about boost foolers.

The way I understand it, a boost fooler just lies to the ECM so it doesn't know maximum boost has been exceeded because the waste gate isn't opening. You won't get any more power but higher boost without adding more fuel will result in lower EGT's under heavy load. A good thing as long as the plumbing and intercooler are up to the higher pressure.
MOREDLEG
Explorer
Aug 17, 2013
OK, Here is the latest.

I took it to another shop, diagnosis for the shudder was worn out U Joints. Had those fixed, shudder is gone.

Diagnosis for the low power is the "wastegate is stuck" And the sensor is reading high boost. They measured it at 22 lbs. I could replace the Turbo, or install a boost fooler for $80. THats what I did. What can you tell me about boost foolers.
_40Fan
Explorer
Aug 12, 2013
Trail-Mate wrote:
Replaced a turbo on a 2002 not sure if the same. Was easy to replace and found a rebuilt replacement for $500 online. This one had the wastegate stuck open and had a crack the housing in the wastegate area due to heat. The truck I was working on had 290K miles on it. IT was a Garret but don't recall the number.

It was a Holset.
MOREDLEG
Explorer
Aug 12, 2013
DirtyOil wrote:
MOREDLEG,I kinda got caught up in the "dealer diagnosis" you can do some "homework" before buying a turbo. Pull the air intake tube off at filter box and at the turbo. You should be able to reach turbo impeller, if so check for any side to side movement, then back and forth movement and of course give it a spin with your fingers. If you hear any grinding noises while spin by hand then you have a problem. Then there is the obvious...have you or the "daff" wrench pullers at the dealer checked
your turbo hoses, clamps, intake manifold and intercooler for leaks?
slightest leak in any of these will cause you issues.

I definetly have homework to do, I really dont know what all the terms mean, Im looking on the internet for reviews of turbos. Ill pick it up on Tuesday and check out the impeller, movement etc...

thanks
DirtyOil
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
the 5.9L is a light-duty motor in the diesel world

the 4BT is light duty. but then are guys getting 500+hp out of these as well...
ghostrider42
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
carringb wrote:
ghostrider42 wrote:
I assume it's out of warranty now? I would call Cummins dealer and find out the real price. Cummins made the engine, not Dodge.

Holset made the turbo, not Cummins;)

Seriously though.... Cummins dealers are not the place to go if you are looking for the best deal, and turbos are not necessarily stocked, especially for light motors (yes, the 5.9L is a light-duty motor in the diesel world).

Holset is owned by Cummins! http://www.myholsetturbo.com/holsethistory.html I had the same 5.9L engine on my Mack 20yd dump truck. It's a medium duty engine, NOT light.
campingken
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
Our turbo had to be replaced at 135,000 miles. We were out of state when it died so we had to have it done at a Dodge dealer.

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