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Dually Chains?

Jimster
Explorer
Explorer
We have a F350 4x4 dually with an Arctic Fox 811, and plan on using the rig through many of the coming fall and winter months in BC, Yukon, ID, MT, OR, CA and WA. I found that Washington State requires trucks with a gross weight of over 10,000 lbs. to carry chains (actually, two sets of chains) and British Columbia also requires all vehicles to have M&S tires or chains between Oct. - Mar. 31. I realize that our rig with its BFG Rugged Terrain T/A tires will probably not have any problems in the snow, but I like to be prepared for the worst.
Do those of you with truck campers on duallies carry dually chains, or do you mount single tire chains on your outside tires? I've read pros and cons for both, and recently found a good Internet price on dually chains. My Jeep and I were pulled out of the snow on Bannock Pass with a chained up dually in Montana once, and I am inclined to pop for the dually chains.
2016 Ford F-350 Lariat, LB, 6.7L Diesel, 4X4, 3.73 LSD, DRW, Camper Package, Firestone Ride-Rite Airbags, TireMaster A1A
2017 Arctic Fox 811, Arctic Fox Landing, 160 watt solar panel, Torklift Fast Guns, Camera-Source Plug & Play Camper Camera Kit
37 REPLIES 37

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
Grit dog wrote:
Chain the outside rears and fronts if necessary.
If all 6 are needed to get through, you're in the wrong place!


Yet, if you happen to find yourself in that "wrong place" through no fault of your own, or even through some fault of your own, you do need to get out of there sooner rather than later. Better weather and/or help may be months away.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Jefe is spot on with his analysis as well.
To add to it, just like many things, there is a balance depending on conditions. Same goes for winter driving. More tread contact vs more ground pressure vs type of tires vs type of snow vs just ice.....on and on.
Like adjusting your wdh. Not a prescribed set of instructions that will work every time. Depends on vehicle capacity, tongue weight, length of trailer, axle placement..........
Some snow/ice is very challenging to drive on, like here on the wet side. Some is like driving a gravel road, when it's 30 below, snow and ice is almost "sticky."
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

jefe_4x4
Explorer
Explorer
This has been a fairly exhaustive discussion on the use of chains.
I have a little bit to add from a TC-er who lives in California and routinely plies the mountains.
When I was towing my jeep on a trailer from west of Reno to Lone Pine, CA one year we had a cold, slippery snow all the way, about 200 miles. It took 8 hours. I used 2 WD (with power lock limited slip) for a while until we hit some significant upgrades. When gravity overcame traction, the high preload limited slip tended to migrate the rear axle toward the low side, whichever that was, so I pulled the lever into 4WD. Now we were in level 2: 4WD with snow tires and pulling a trailer. There were several of 2WD pickups with slick street tires overturned in the ditch along the way. I pulled off the highway down a ramp to find the 7K pound trailer and jeep swinging around to the low side, even with the trailer brakes on. I quickly added more thumb trigger, and then less thumb braking power to the trailer which helped right the consist, but not as much as I was hoping.
We continued down Hwy 395 and came to a dead stop south of Topaz Lake. It was a narrow winding section cut into the hillside along the lake and had some banking of the roadway. This was the demise of someone pulling a RV trailer, even with chains. The only drive axle could not over come the drag of the trailer and gravity, even with chains. Waiting for the road to clear about 2003:

A California Highway Patrol man walked by and looked at our rig. He stopped and said, "Chain 'er up". He said if you tow, even with 4WD and snow tires, you need chains on one drive axle. I did not know this and happily complied. We had a new set of cable chains and I used my 2x4 block under the tire to easily put the chains on. No, they did not wear out, I think because I had them on very tightly with no slop. Once the choke point was cleared, we followed a single axle bob tail truck and trailer: 3 axles total. He had chains on the outside of one set of drive axle and one set on the single axle of the trailer. This what took the time: 10-15 mph for about the next 6 hours. I did observe many unchained dual wheel pickups on this long day and noticed that even in 4WD pulling a hill they were slipping all over. Why? Ground pressure or lack thereof. An abundance of floatation.
Back in the day, I chained up all four of my FJ-40's big, oversized tires with big, welded lug chains I had. As mentioned above it was unstoppable in deep snow. I didn't move very fast, but the rig just kept chewing away at the 3 feet of snow I was trying to breach.
After all this, I still hate the idea of using chains.
Remember that just using single chains on one tire of duals is preferred on pavement because of ground pressure. Ground pressure? Yes, the smaller the footprint of the chain the more pressure is focused and exerted to the ground causing less slippage. I found this out when I chained up my real wide tires. They had less effect and tended to slip more on snowy pavement. Plus they are VERY heavy. I would only use them in dire straights around our abode and certainly not on a trip away from the compound.
So, I guess my recommendation (this is the internet, you know, and everything is true; i love that from the poster above) is to keep the strongest cable chains, pre fit for your rig for one tire per side only, in a bag with a block that will fit between the cross links, and tighteners; be ready and able to install them; and hope you never have to use them. Only on a long winter TC trip in the norselands would I be obliged to take even the cable chains along.
jefe
'01.5 Dodge 2500 4x4, CTD, Qcab, SB, NV5600, 241HD, 4.10's, Dana 70/TruTrac; Dana 80/ TruTrac, Spintec hub conversion, H.D. susp, 315/75R16's on 7.5" and 10" wide steel wheels, Vulcan big line, Warn M15K winch '98 Lance Lite 165s, 8' 6" X-cab, 200w Solar

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
It is wet, heavy and right at freezing point most of the time - This is what makes it so slick and so hard to push through. I learned to drive on tall crowned two lane roads with deep ditches on the Olympic Peninsula and have not found challenges like this anywhere else I have driven.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
For all the pnw guys....and everyone else in on the convo, I'll say that snow here in the pnw is unique and I never owned chains anywhere else before moving here.
Used them else where, maybe deep snow ona skidder road getting out of elk camp, but typically it's colder than here.
This snow is the worst for everything snow related. Doesn't get cold enough. Roads are 2x as slick here and yes just 6-12" of wet unplowed snow can stop a rig dead where you could blow right through fluffy snow.
Here they are almost a necessity if you get off main roads in the mountains in the winter.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

bighatnohorse
Explorer II
Explorer II
Avoidance is my first rule of snow. Even so, I carry a set of AutoSocks all year as part of the trucks preparedness.
At 2.6 pounds, it's reasonable weight-wise.
AutoSock on YouTube
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bb_94401
Explorer
Explorer
Reality Check wrote:


True story on the 10k/chains required. Reality is, WSP does not enforce it on RV rigs. ...

Duals...? don't bother with the doubles. PITA, not required, and, did I say they are a PITA? Cables or chains both work. ...



Dual chains are a PITA and they are heavy. However if you get caught in a Cascade or Sierra Sno-Park where deep, wet heavy snow fell overnight and the DOT Plows are busy just getting the highway open, dual chains will get you out. Chains on just the outer dual cannot bite in this situation, as the inner tire packs and floats on the snow enough to prevent the outer chained tire from getting traction and does little more than dig a hole and spin. 4WD with chains on front and dual chains in back will let you chew your way out.

While cable chains will work in some situations, cross bar reinforced link chains on all corners have more bite in all conditions, even R3 in CA when it is raining on a layer of bladed compact snow.

Getting chains with cams makes tightening much easier.

Laws in WA and OR say vehicles >10k lbs have to use chains, even if 4WD and studded snow tires. CA laws say vehicles <6.5k, with 4WD and snow tires don't need chains when R2. Over 6.5k lbs it is chains only, although I've never seen this enforced. The traction control laws emphasize that you be able to control your vehicle. To me this means having very good studded snow tires on all corners. Mine are Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT.
'05 Ram 3500, 4x4, DRW, LB, 6spd man, CTD, PRXB exhaust brake, Roadmaster bar

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Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Nomad II
Jimster wrote:
Thanks for the advice on chains for a dually, and thanks also for the warning on the BFG tires; they came with the new truck and have only 2,000 miles on them, so I'll use them through this winter. I think I'll order chains for the outside rear wheels only. Now the question is whether to buy chains with cams or the type of chains that I've used for years without cams.


I went with heavy duty cam chains for my dually. I have 8000 pounds on the rear axle and when I used a lighter set on my SRW they were toast after 20 miles. We had the heavy duty cam chains on our fire engine which weighed over 30k and in the ten winters I was up on the mountain using them we never damaged the original set
2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 2019 Lance 1062, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
I'm on my third 4wd truck in 27 years. Although I have always carried chains for the trucks and drag cables for my trailers, I never had to use them. I have test fitted them, but it has been so long that I should reacquaint myself before I need them. Typically there is no place I need to be that requires me to chain up to get there. If weather changes while I am away, I will take the easiest way home and can be prepared if it really requires chains.

Years ago, I traveled most of the Alps with a rear wheel drive Opel and no chains. There were some difficult passes but nothing that caused me to lose control going up or down. As posted, the wet snot in western WA and OR are much more difficult.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I have and carry chains for both truck axles and one trailer axle when conditions may require. Have used them but not all as conditions did not require it. I prefer to be prepared.

If I had a dually I would have dual tire chains. Although in light conditions I might use the singles(front set) on the outer dual.

If I am putting on chains I don't want those snap on plastic or sock outfits. I need something that will get down and grip the ice below 6+ inches of wet slush on the 8% grade.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Carry chains for both the TV and 5er, not had to use, Yet!
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

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Reality_Check
Nomad II
Nomad II
OK, I get it, it's just me. But I read these threads (they come up fairly often) and I just don't understand some of the thinking.

What is the big deal about throwing on a set of cables or chains? (skip the arguments about which is better, etc.. I carry both and they both have their place in life). Face it, very few get "off road"...which means you're usually on a plowed, slick surface (we're talking western WA/OR here it appears). I get it; anyone can drive in dry stuff...or should be able to. So most all terrain/all season tires will be a good start. But when it's slippery...and it's not hard to figure out when it is, I have to ask....what goes through one's mind? All of a sudden everyone 'else' is an idiot and can't drive, but...?

Anyhow, what's the hangup?? It's about 10 min for us to throw two sets, another 5 or 10 to throw on a drag set. You're driving a 20, 40, 60, or more thousand dollar rig, with a 10, 20, 40, or more thousand dollar camper, maybe towing a trailer worth..??? filled with stuff worth..??

Which brings me to the other question..

What's the hangup with drag chains? Getting going is only half the problem. If you go up a hill, chances are you're going to go down. And down is more of a problem than up for sure. Yet, I read here, listen to folks often that just poo-poo the idea. What's keeping you out of the ditch when you're off camber, trying to stop and the trailer can't track? Seriously, think about it. It doesn't have to be "that bad"... just another day with snow.

Funniest part of some of these threads is all the answers from folks, all the wisdom and advice, followed by...."I don't actually have much experience in this...."

Just asking.. cracks me up sometimes, but hey, makes great reading.
'16 F550 CC, 4x4 with Link Ultraride air suspension, '18 AF 1150. Just so we can play with our snowmobiles, dirt bikes and fishing boat. And new 20' tag along...kayaks, bikes, mc's and extra water and food!!

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Jimster, remember, if it gets slick out, airing down, even with highway tires, helps a bunch. Kind of a pain with a dually but if she's gettin sideways on you too much, even with the camper, air down until you get some noticeable squish in the sidewalls.
Another option since your tires are almost new, is to get them siped. They will wear quicker when loaded with the camper, on dry pavement, but will do a lot better on slick/icy roads, which is the real culprit on highways. They're typically plowed well enough that deep snow traction is a non issue.

I've got some road runner tires on my Dodge right now. They snucked last winter. If I don't find some better tires, I'll sipe them before winter.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

jtfcons
Explorer
Explorer
George H wrote:
I carry chains for the outer wheels, must admit that I have never used them.


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