Engines to avoid on F-250?

parker.rowe wrote:

Samsonsworld wrote:
Coming from a history of small engines, I never added a k&n where I didn't have to rejet a carb. They do flow better. But I'd never use one on anything with a long duty cycle. You have to wonder about a company that sells prefilters for it's filters.

Exactly! They flow more air, because they flow more...everything. :D

Basically, what my mechanic told me as well.

Samsonsworld wrote:
Coming from a history of small engines, I never added a k&n where I didn't have to rejet a carb. They do flow better. But I'd never use one on anything with a long duty cycle. You have to wonder about a company that sells prefilters for it's filters.

Exactly! They flow more air, because they flow more...everything. :D

Coming from a history of small engines, I never added a k&n where I didn't have to rejet a carb. They do flow better. But I'd never use one on anything with a long duty cycle. You have to wonder about a company that sells prefilters for it's filters.

The Ford 5.4L 3v is a good motor for towing up to 7k, the lower 4.10 rear makes it better. The 6.8L 3v is a towing machine when paired with a 4.10 rear gear (I have one). In fact I have owned both motors and never had to do a repair for anything other than normal wear over a 15 year period with them. the newer 6.2L 6 speed needs to be matched with the 4.30 rear for best results

Years ago, I saw a good comparo test done for off road engines. The three types of filter were K&N ( oiled cloth ), oiled foam, and pleated paper.

The results were the K&N passed the most dirt and allowed larger particles to pass thru, but it continued to flow fairly well when very dirty.
The pleated paper stopped the most dirt, and filtered down to finer particles, but when clogged with dirt, severely limited flow.
The oiled foam element was in the middle of the other two.

This convinced me to stick with pleated paper and change it often enough to maintain flow.

ib516 wrote:

Crabbypatty wrote:
Ive had K & N cold air kits on 5.7L Tahoe and 8.1L Suburban each sold with over 250,000 miles and going strong. It adds gas mileage and there is a noticeable uptick in power when towing. Tweaking the exhaust and a a 5star tuner, like I used on the Suburban, will increase horsepower more than 5% making towing easier and more fuel efficient. While diesels get better mileage and have more torque, it don't tow anything that heavy to warrant the extra initial price and fuel costs. 95% of the time the truck is used locally, then we tow with it. Very happy with the 6.2L 6 speed setup. The Burb was 3 speed and bruted through towing. This works for us.

Dyno test after dyno test says "cold air" kits from the aftermarket make zero power, and in some cases reduce it. The cotton/gauze filters also pass through a lot more dust. I had a K&N in my 2002 Dodge/Cummins. I found dust in the intake tube after the filter and gunk on the turbo blades. It went in the garbage.

Oh, and BTW, the factory air intakes are also cold air. Anyone who thinks and open filter element under the hood is sucking cold air is being lied to.

I had a similar experience on my 7.3L diesel. I was NOT happy when I saw how dirty the intake tube was downstream of the filter.

Crabbypatty wrote:
Ive had K & N cold air kits on 5.7L Tahoe and 8.1L Suburban each sold with over 250,000 miles and going strong. It adds gas mileage and there is a noticeable uptick in power when towing. Tweaking the exhaust and a a 5star tuner, like I used on the Suburban, will increase horsepower more than 5% making towing easier and more fuel efficient. While diesels get better mileage and have more torque, it don't tow anything that heavy to warrant the extra initial price and fuel costs. 95% of the time the truck is used locally, then we tow with it. Very happy with the 6.2L 6 speed setup. The Burb was 3 speed and bruted through towing. This works for us.

Exactly how can it add "gas mileage?" I would love to know how you think this works.

Crabbypatty wrote:
Ive had K & N cold air kits on 5.7L Tahoe and 8.1L Suburban each sold with over 250,000 miles and going strong. It adds gas mileage and there is a noticeable uptick in power when towing. Tweaking the exhaust and a a 5star tuner, like I used on the Suburban, will increase horsepower more than 5% making towing easier and more fuel efficient. While diesels get better mileage and have more torque, it don't tow anything that heavy to warrant the extra initial price and fuel costs. 95% of the time the truck is used locally, then we tow with it. Very happy with the 6.2L 6 speed setup. The Burb was 3 speed and bruted through towing. This works for us.

Dyno test after dyno test says "cold air" kits from the aftermarket make zero power, and in some cases reduce it. The cotton/gauze filters also pass through a lot more dust. I had a K&N in my 2002 Dodge/Cummins. I found dust in the intake tube after the filter and gunk on the turbo blades. It went in the garbage.

Oh, and BTW, the factory air intakes are also cold air. Anyone who thinks and open filter element under the hood is sucking cold air is being lied to.

Ive had K & N cold air kits on 5.7L Tahoe and 8.1L Suburban each sold with over 250,000 miles and going strong. It adds gas mileage and there is a noticeable uptick in power when towing. Tweaking the exhaust and a a 5star tuner, like I used on the Suburban, will increase horsepower more than 5% making towing easier and more fuel efficient. While diesels get better mileage and have more torque, it don't tow anything that heavy to warrant the extra initial price and fuel costs. 95% of the time the truck is used locally, then we tow with it. Very happy with the 6.2L 6 speed setup. The Burb was 3 speed and bruted through towing. This works for us.

Procrastinator wrote:
I am going to chime in here. I own a 6.0, yes I knew about all of its flaws before I bought it. I have owned multiple Cummins, a V10, a 7.3, and now a 6.0. I have driven a lot of miles in all of them.

My advice is simple. If you come to an online forum for diesel advice a 6.0 is not for you. I turn my own wrenches and I have a large tool box. I don't mind doing preventative maintenance. There is a video or forum for every 6.0 ailment out there. When I upgraded trailers I wanted a dually again. I got a very good deal on 6.0 because of all the fears of it. Like, about $12,000 savings compared to other trucks. I constantly monitor my engine with Torque Pro. The truck's brakes and transmission have given me more problems than the motor. Good luck in what you choose and remember the internet NEVER lies.

This was my point earlier. But ^ this guy said it more eloquently.
If A guy is on a budget and wanted/needed a heavy hauler diesel AND was willing to to turn wrenches, the6.0 is a great value package.
If a guy values more turnkey reliability and less timeunder the hood, move along from the two problem Powerstrokes.