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Enough Truck

upstech76
Explorer
Explorer
I recently purchased a new TT that weighs 6800# dry. I am currently pulling it with my '99 F150 which does ok but I am going to be truck shopping early next year and am debating if I want another 1/2 ton or step up in size. For those of you that pull a 7-8k TT with a 1/2 truck do you feel it performs ok? Most of my towing is on flat ground but do plan a few trips into the smokies and ozarks. Tips/Recommendations?
2013 Forest River Puma 28'
20 REPLIES 20

NC_Hauler
Explorer
Explorer
rhagfo wrote:
NC Hauler wrote:
pitch wrote:
Am I missing something here? On these threads someone always jumps in with the brakes on a 3/4 having more stopping power.
Maybe it is different with larger trailers, but my trailer brakes stop the trailer and my truck brakes stop the truck.
If you don't feel the trailer brakes engage and hold you need to look at your set up.

If you need a 2500 or larger that is what you need. Just remember that the repairs will be more expensive, registration usually costs more, tires are more expensive and around town gas mileage will be much worse.

If the TV is also a daily driver,how much are you willing to pay out for the downsides of a truck that you only use to its capacity for 60 days of the year?



I agree with you 100%,,,BUT, "WHAT IF", while towing, down a steep mountain, your trailer cable becomes disconnected? Now your truck is going to stop all that weight behind you...I know it can happen because it happened to me towing my 16,000# 5er with a 1 ton dually going down Saluda Grade on I26 in NC....tapped my brakes and trailer info comes on and states, "no connection"...wasn't going that fast, 55 or so, but it did take a tad to slow and come to a stop,to where I could pull over and make sure I was plugged in better., (I've since made an adjustment to keep this from happening), but again, "WHAT IF" something happened to the connector from what you are towing to what you are towing with? It CAN happen, just saying, it's nice to know that one has enough truck, T/H package, downshifting tranny, to help bring the load to a safe stop...

I've owned 1500's, 2500's, 3500 dually's and really it's no more expensive, depending on how you approach it, from one to the other, and price REALLY shouldn't matter that much if you're going to "go bigger", you need to pay the price of something that can effectively tow the "bigger/heavier" TT or 5er.....

My dually is my daily driver...it's what I tow my 5er with and I've gotten use to it, been driving dually's since 05'...it's what you get use to and it is too much for maintenance, too much for repairs, to much for license, and the topper the ride is too harsh!I'm not going to "cut corners" on what I tow with, even if I were to only tow a couple of times a year...hard to put a price on "peace of mind"...

One should match their TV up with what they're towing, no matter how often they tow with it..."better safe than sorry" still works for me.:)


X2

Well it it will work for a couple weeks a year,RIGHT! Because to get the right TV, it is too much for maintenance, too much for repairs, to much for license, and the topper the ride is too harsh!
If this is the case get a smaller trailer to go with the smaller TV.


Thanks, and that was my point...Even if one is only going to tow once or twice a year, I'd want to do it safely and know I wasn't abusing my truck or taking chances because I "crimped" on a TV because it was also going to be my daily driver and I "wasn't going to be towing that often"...If you're wanting higher mpg and smoother ride daily as you're using the truck, then best thing to do is buy a trailer that'll work with that Tow Vehicle. I'd rather be "safe than sorry". If you don't want possibly higher maint. cost, pay more for the TV, a "softer daily ride" and you want higher mpg....match a trailer to the truck that will meet all those specs for you..nothing more, nothing less.
Jim & Kathy, (Boxers, Buddy & Sheba)
2016 Ram 3500 DRW Longhorn 4X4/CC/LB/Aisin/4.10/rear air assist ...Pearl White.
2016 DRV MS 36RSSB3/ W&D/ slide toppers/ DTV satellite/ 5.5K Onan propane gen.
B&W RVK3600 Hitch
Fulltiming in WV & TX
USAF 71-75 Viet Nam Vet

NC_Hauler
Explorer
Explorer
Hannibal wrote:
NC Hauler wrote:
Don't understand why some use "Dry Weight" when trying to pick a truck to tow a TT or 5er with. It's really not much help or "real world"...Do yourself a favor and use TT's GVW when purchasing a truck to tow with...no one tows a TT "dry" or "empty", and believe some would REALLY be surprised if they weighed their unit, when loaded..I know I was...Weight can add up quickly..

If your present truck tows it fine, go with another 1/2 ton...if that is all you need and you're not planning on "eventually" getting a larger heavier TT or 5er...then, as someone suggested, I'd also recommend you look at a 3/4 ton to "already have one" in case you decide to go heavier later down the road.


Very true! I prefer to use a trailer's GVWR as the guide. However, we're looking at a 2014 Wildcat that has a shipping weight label of 8500~ lbs and a GVWR of 12k+ lbs. It has a 2100 lb water capacity. There's a little wiggle room there.


Agree 100% Hannibal. The ONLY reason I recommended he might "LOOK" at a 3/4 ton was "IF" he WERE to be thinking "bigger trailer" down the road, don't do like I did and spend more money on trucks because I was too stupid to not think I might go bigger...and I did, to the point of, at the time, having to have a dually to tow what the wife and I wanted to camp in....The weighs OP are 1/2 ton capable, but he has a young, growing family..."IF" he thinks he'll go bigger, I'd prepare now instead of spending a lot of money on different size pick-up's to tow upgrades....Wished I "thought it out better", but live and learn...sometimes the hard way:)
Jim & Kathy, (Boxers, Buddy & Sheba)
2016 Ram 3500 DRW Longhorn 4X4/CC/LB/Aisin/4.10/rear air assist ...Pearl White.
2016 DRV MS 36RSSB3/ W&D/ slide toppers/ DTV satellite/ 5.5K Onan propane gen.
B&W RVK3600 Hitch
Fulltiming in WV & TX
USAF 71-75 Viet Nam Vet

campigloo
Explorer
Explorer
OP, you stated the kids are late teens. When they do move on, completely, done with college, weddings, ect., you will what is called expendible income. You're really going to like it!

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
NC Hauler wrote:
Don't understand why some use "Dry Weight" when trying to pick a truck to tow a TT or 5er with. It's really not much help or "real world"...Do yourself a favor and use TT's GVW when purchasing a truck to tow with...no one tows a TT "dry" or "empty", and believe some would REALLY be surprised if they weighed their unit, when loaded..I know I was...Weight can add up quickly..

If your present truck tows it fine, go with another 1/2 ton...if that is all you need and you're not planning on "eventually" getting a larger heavier TT or 5er...then, as someone suggested, I'd also recommend you look at a 3/4 ton to "already have one" in case you decide to go heavier later down the road.


Very true! I prefer to use a trailer's GVWR as the guide. However, we're looking at a 2014 Wildcat that has a shipping weight label of 8500~ lbs and a GVWR of 12k+ lbs. It has a 2100 lb water capacity. There's a little wiggle room there.
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
NC Hauler wrote:
pitch wrote:
Am I missing something here? On these threads someone always jumps in with the brakes on a 3/4 having more stopping power.
Maybe it is different with larger trailers, but my trailer brakes stop the trailer and my truck brakes stop the truck.
If you don't feel the trailer brakes engage and hold you need to look at your set up.

If you need a 2500 or larger that is what you need. Just remember that the repairs will be more expensive, registration usually costs more, tires are more expensive and around town gas mileage will be much worse.

If the TV is also a daily driver,how much are you willing to pay out for the downsides of a truck that you only use to its capacity for 60 days of the year?



I agree with you 100%,,,BUT, "WHAT IF", while towing, down a steep mountain, your trailer cable becomes disconnected? Now your truck is going to stop all that weight behind you...I know it can happen because it happened to me towing my 16,000# 5er with a 1 ton dually going down Saluda Grade on I26 in NC....tapped my brakes and trailer info comes on and states, "no connection"...wasn't going that fast, 55 or so, but it did take a tad to slow and come to a stop,to where I could pull over and make sure I was plugged in better., (I've since made an adjustment to keep this from happening), but again, "WHAT IF" something happened to the connector from what you are towing to what you are towing with? It CAN happen, just saying, it's nice to know that one has enough truck, T/H package, downshifting tranny, to help bring the load to a safe stop...

I've owned 1500's, 2500's, 3500 dually's and really it's no more expensive, depending on how you approach it, from one to the other, and price REALLY shouldn't matter that much if you're going to "go bigger", you need to pay the price of something that can effectively tow the "bigger/heavier" TT or 5er.....

My dually is my daily driver...it's what I tow my 5er with and I've gotten use to it, been driving dually's since 05'...it's what you get use to and it is too much for maintenance, too much for repairs, to much for license, and the topper the ride is too harsh!I'm not going to "cut corners" on what I tow with, even if I were to only tow a couple of times a year...hard to put a price on "peace of mind"...

One should match their TV up with what they're towing, no matter how often they tow with it..."better safe than sorry" still works for me.:)


X2

Well it it will work for a couple weeks a year,RIGHT! Because to get the right TV, it is too much for maintenance, too much for repairs, to much for license, and the topper the ride is too harsh!
If this is the case get a smaller trailer to go with the smaller TV.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

NC_Hauler
Explorer
Explorer
pitch wrote:
Am I missing something here? On these threads someone always jumps in with the brakes on a 3/4 having more stopping power.
Maybe it is different with larger trailers, but my trailer brakes stop the trailer and my truck brakes stop the truck.
If you don't feel the trailer brakes engage and hold you need to look at your set up.

If you need a 2500 or larger that is what you need. Just remember that the repairs will be more expensive, registration usually costs more, tires are more expensive and around town gas mileage will be much worse.

If the TV is also a daily driver,how much are you willing to pay out for the downsides of a truck that you only use to its capacity for 60 days of the year?



I agree with you 100%,,,BUT, "WHAT IF", while towing, down a steep mountain, your trailer cable becomes disconnected? Now your truck is going to stop all that weight behind you...I know it can happen because it happened to me towing my 16,000# 5er with a 1 ton dually going down Saluda Grade on I26 in NC....tapped my brakes and trailer info comes on and states, "no connection"...wasn't going that fast, 55 or so, but it did take a tad to slow and come to a stop,to where I could pull over and make sure I was plugged in better., (I've since made an adjustment to keep this from happening), but again, "WHAT IF" something happened to the connector from what you are towing to what you are towing with? It CAN happen, just saying, it's nice to know that one has enough truck, T/H package, downshifting tranny, to help bring the load to a safe stop...

I've owned 1500's, 2500's, 3500 dually's and really it's no more expensive, depending on how you approach it, from one to the other, and price REALLY shouldn't matter that much if you're going to "go bigger", you need to pay the price of something that can effectively tow the "bigger/heavier" TT or 5er.....

My dually is my daily driver...it's what I tow my 5er with and I've gotten use to it, been driving dually's since 05'...it's what you get use to and I'm not going to "cut corners" on what I tow with, even if I were to only tow a couple of times a year...hard to put a price on "peace of mind"...

One should match their TV up with what they're towing, no matter how often they tow with it..."better safe than sorry" still works for me.:)
Jim & Kathy, (Boxers, Buddy & Sheba)
2016 Ram 3500 DRW Longhorn 4X4/CC/LB/Aisin/4.10/rear air assist ...Pearl White.
2016 DRV MS 36RSSB3/ W&D/ slide toppers/ DTV satellite/ 5.5K Onan propane gen.
B&W RVK3600 Hitch
Fulltiming in WV & TX
USAF 71-75 Viet Nam Vet

upstech76
Explorer
Explorer
I looked at a 2013 F150 5.0L V8 3.55 gears that has a tow rating of 9500#. Going to discuss it over with the wife tonight but I might be bringing it home soon!
2013 Forest River Puma 28'

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
We up graded/down graded (whatever) from an 04' F-250 6.0 PS to a 13' F-150 HD Ecoboost. Both have pulled the 07' 294RLS Cougar TT weighting 8600# and is 31'. The 150 pulls it a 100% better than that ole 250 did (suspension wise it sucked).
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker 😉

pitch
Explorer II
Explorer II
Am I missing something here? On these threads someone always jumps in with the brakes on a 3/4 having more stopping power.
Maybe it is different with larger trailers, but my trailer brakes stop the trailer and my truck brakes stop the truck.
If you don't feel the trailer brakes engage and hold you need to look at your set up.

If you need a 2500 or larger that is what you need. Just remember that the repairs will be more expensive, registration usually costs more, tires are more expensive and around town gas mileage will be much worse.

If the TV is also a daily driver,how much are you willing to pay out for the downsides of a truck that you only use to its capacity for 60 days of the year?

upstech76
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone for the advise. Its going to be a couple months before i can actually purchase the truck but will definately look at the 3/4 ton trucks. As for future upgrades it not likely but who knows! Kids are all in late teens and hopefully be moving on soon!
2013 Forest River Puma 28'

campigloo
Explorer
Explorer
P.S.-Sounds like you are upgrading the camper. Just a note; the general RV rule is your next one is just a little larger than the previous one. What about the next one? Will the 1/2 ton be capable?

maxwell11
Explorer
Explorer
I have a trailer, bumper pull, that is in your weight range.

I pull it with a Dodge 2005 model 2500 diesel. It pulls it fine as it has large brakes, we just got home from a trip in the smoky mountains.

The truck pulled the trailer up the mountain highways fine and the main thing, it pulled it down the mountain highways fine.

The tow/haul feature held the load, I felt safe coming down the mountain highways. under complete control

most people always talk about, can I pull that load easy,

but, I am more concerned about stopping the load, if for some reason you have to make an emergency stop.

Just my two cents:
what ever brand of truck you buy, I would suggest you drive a 3/4 ton and hook it to your trailer for a test run. I think you will like having a heavier truck. also the newer trucks have exhaust brakes, that exhaust brake will become your new best friend on mountain roads, so I have been told,

I do not have one on my old dodge.

remember on a 2500 you get heavier wheels, brakes, tires, frame, differential gears, steering rods, etc:

good luck with your new truck purchase.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
kw/00 wrote:
NC Hauler wrote:
Do yourself a favor and use TT's GVW when purchasing a truck to tow with...no one tows a TT "dry" or "empty".....It would help a little more when selecting a vehicle to tow it with.

If your present truck tows it fine, go with another 1/2 ton...if that is all you need and you're not planning on "eventually" getting a larger heavier TT or 5er...then, as someone suggested, I'd also recommend you look at a 3/4 ton to "already have one" in case you decide to go heavier later down the road.


X2 on this...well stated


X3 That is a great post NC.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

campigloo
Explorer
Explorer
I definitely think you should go 3/4 ton. Your weight is starting to get pretty high, and you may want to get a larger trailer in the future. The 3/4 will handle the load better and longer. Just staying a few miles from home pulling on an occassional weekend?, then the 1/2 ton will probably be ok. Want to go for a long trip?, the 3/4 will be safer and more comfortable. I traded my F250 with the triton for a f250 7.3 towing a similar load to yours. Night and day difference in capability. Sure, the ecoboost or equivalent is probably a fine truck, but I can't help but think a load like this is working them hard. My current 3/4 6.7 Cummins pulls a 35' @ 9500# and LIKES IT. Yes 1/2 ton will up and down mountains for a while, but I found mine had a hard time getting out of its own way. Ever been in a city and maybe find a short entrance ramp?, have to make a quick lane change?, start from a dead stop on a hill? That extra low end torque has gotten me out of a few jams. Just sayin'. IMHO.