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Factory EBC or use my P3?

gopherslayer
Explorer
Explorer
Maybe I need to play with my 2011 Silverado 2500s factory EBC a little more but I really like the P3 I put in my Yukon 2500.

Anybody use the P3 instead of factory EBC?
10 REPLIES 10

RasMouSein
Explorer
Explorer
RCMAN46 wrote:
RasMouSein wrote:
RCMAN46 wrote:
RasMouSein wrote:
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great


You have too much boost for the size of trailer being towed. Dial down the boost and the jerk may go away.

Another thing that can cause jurk is too much play in the hitch system.


When I'm driving like 1 or 2 km/h, I'm braking, at first the controller sends under one volts, but after a few seconds it jumps to 2.5volts...


The 2.5 volts is the hold voltage which is 25 percent of max voltage controller is set for.

It will not activate until there is no deacceleration. You are not braking the tv only activating the brake lights thus the P3 goes to the hold mode after about 5 seconds.


Tomato tamato !!! lol
It's a hobby for me to make things better!
See I was able to post using full words!!
Have a nice day 🙂
2017 KZ, Sportsmen Classic 181BHS. 430Amp-h, Trimetric, 2kw Honda, Iota DLS-55_IQ4

RCMAN46
Explorer
Explorer
RasMouSein wrote:
RCMAN46 wrote:
RasMouSein wrote:
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great


You have too much boost for the size of trailer being towed. Dial down the boost and the jerk may go away.

Another thing that can cause jurk is too much play in the hitch system.


When I'm driving like 1 or 2 km/h, I'm braking, at first the controller sends under one volts, but after a few seconds it jumps to 2.5volts...


The 2.5 volts is the hold voltage which is 25 percent of max voltage controller is set for.

It will not activate until there is no deacceleration. You are not braking the tv only activating the brake lights thus the P3 goes to the hold mode after about 5 seconds.

skyhammer
Explorer
Explorer
I had to install a P3 on my 2013 Chevy, as the Chevy IBC won't work with electric over hydraulic brakes.
On the other hand, my 2011 Ford DRW IBC works with either electric or electric over hydraulic brake systems.
2011 Host Everest, 11.5',triple slide.
2011 F-350,DRW,CC,LWB,4X4,6.7

RasMouSein
Explorer
Explorer
RCMAN46 wrote:
RasMouSein wrote:
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great


You have too much boost for the size of trailer being towed. Dial down the boost and the jerk may go away.

Another thing that can cause jurk is too much play in the hitch system.


When I'm driving like 1 or 2 km/h, I'm braking, at first the controller sends under one volts, but after a few seconds it jumps to 2.5volts...
It's a hobby for me to make things better!
See I was able to post using full words!!
Have a nice day 🙂
2017 KZ, Sportsmen Classic 181BHS. 430Amp-h, Trimetric, 2kw Honda, Iota DLS-55_IQ4

gopherslayer
Explorer
Explorer
When I get the camper out this next weekend I’ll setup the factory one and see how it does. I pulled it once in late fall after buying this truck and that was only 30 minutes down the road. I just put Bilstein 4600s on last night and new tires go on Tuesday. Towing 5 hours one way in a couple of weeks so I’ll get it all sorted out next weekend.

bartlettj
Explorer
Explorer
I love the factory set up on my '12 Sierra 2500hd diesel, especially with the exhaust brake. Making sure the play is taken out of the receiver hitch will help too.

Randu
Explorer
Explorer
Have used both the P3 and Factory EBC on 2014 Silverado 3500. Factory was much smoother and sold the P3. Nothing but factory on my 2017.
2017 Chevy 3500HD SRW Crew LTZ
4x4,Duramax, Allison.
2017 Jayco North Point 381DLQS
Previous: 2000 Travel Supreme
2005 Newmar Kountry Star
2008 Mobile Suites 36TK3

RCMAN46
Explorer
Explorer
RasMouSein wrote:
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great


You have too much boost for the size of trailer being towed. Dial down the boost and the jerk may go away.

Another thing that can cause jurk is too much play in the hitch system.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
In heavy traffic...just touch your TV brake pedal enough to turn on the brake lights...that is what the P2/P3 senses for it's turn on...and do NOT go any farther to start TV braking

That will have the P2/P3 turn on the trailer brakes...using whatever presets you have dialed in

Then just keep your foot there without setting the TV brakes and the accelerometer will continue to keep the trailer brakes on

Now, it gotta slam on the brakes...ditto the above, but now you have the TV brakes in that game and the accelerometer will will send even more voltage to the trailer brakes

My P3 keeps the trailer leading and does NOT jerk, but IMHO, the GM brake pedal switch is extremely sensitive to movement and tells my P3 to turn on way before the TV MC ever gets PSI

On OEM IBC's...they will NOT turn on the IBC as soon as my P3...unless they too have a TV brake pedal switch sensor...and...that, that pedal switch is as sensitive as GM's
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

RasMouSein
Explorer
Explorer
I have the P3 it's great except in slow traffic, after a few second of crimping it automaicly apply a set braking... it make the trailer jerk...

The factory one should be best, because it check how much brake pedal is aplied and brake acordingly , just need to set how much your trailer needs.

But I have to admit, the boost mode on the P3 is great
It's a hobby for me to make things better!
See I was able to post using full words!!
Have a nice day 🙂
2017 KZ, Sportsmen Classic 181BHS. 430Amp-h, Trimetric, 2kw Honda, Iota DLS-55_IQ4