mkirsch wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
I presumed it was just surface rust bubbling the paint, not rusted through.
Not sure which google you're using, but the "5000 different options" are really like a dozen different styles from 100 different vendors, lol.
Although, I'm confused, you first said you were planning in "fixing" the rust (presumably not with a good finish or color matched, hence the need for flares) and said you were looking for something you liked.
Then you said you're just slapping them on to cover up the rust to sell it.
If the latter is the case, buy the cheapest ones you can find and add a for sale sign to your order and let er rip.
PS, still think the bushwhacker type wide flares look awkward with OE size wheels and no lift, so I'd go with skinny OE style looking flares.
It is surface rust but surface rust means it's on the verge of rusting through. Sanding it down and painting it will buy me 6 months max. To do it properly I would have to have the old metal cut out and replaced.
I fail to see anything contradictory about my statements. Yes, I plan on doing some sanding and slapping on of paint, probably black POR15 because I have some leftover from another project. Then I want to cover up the rust with fender flares, because despite my sanding and paint, the rust is still there.
This way if questioned I can honestly say I "fixed" the rust before adding the flares, because that's how you "fix" rust in car salesman world.
I agree on the Bushwacker flares, and would never install those. I just want something quick and easy and cheap that will cover up the rust. Impossible to tell from the pictures if they will cover up the rust, or how easy/hard they are to install, or if they even fit decent out of the box.
Well, "we" don't know how far up the fenders you will be "repairing."
"We" don't know if its on the inside surface and if you plan on "repairing" that as well or not.
So noone can tell you, hey you can repair 2" up from the fenderwell and the flare you've picked out is 2.5" tall.
What I can tell you is that rust is oxidation. Steel can't oxidize if it's not exposed to.....oxygen. and your thinking is sound, in that if you TOTALLY seal the properly prepped surface (IE wire wheeled down to shiny steel and or a rust converter over minor flash rust, WITH a topcoat of paint) and you don't miss any spots, AND then protect that area from further road damage, rock chips, etc, it WILL last far longer than 6 months.
Now your propensity to fix it right (without cutting out otherwise good sheetmetal, or maybe it's worse and rusting from inside out) may not be there, and a quick wire wheel, scuff n scratch, rust converter, hide with fender flares, "may" only make it through one salt belt winter before rust pops up again.