Forum Discussion

bkenobi's avatar
bkenobi
Explorer
Jun 16, 2016

Fiberglass TC question

I'm new to RV camping but have been doing a lot of reading and trips to the camper shops. I started out thinking I could pick up one of those super cheap deals on craigslist ($1500 "immaculate" camper). Well, after looking at close to a dozen "perfect condition" campers, I've learned a bit. Primarily, people are liars or don't know what they are talking about. ;)

I have a 2016 Ram 3500 Cummins SRW crew cab that I took delivery of last month. I have been looking for something on the light side and something that does not extend past the tailgate as I will likely be towing a horse trailer with it down the road. I drove a buddy's rig (2000's F350 DRW + Arctic Fox single slide + 3-4 horse steel trailer) up Mount Hood and left a brown streak on the upholstery due to the swaying next to the drop offs. I don't want that.

My ideal to this point has been something like a Lance 835, Elkhorn 8', etc. However, I've looked at a few of these and even the better looking ones seem to have some water issues. I could get a new one, but if these people think they are taking care of their rig and still end up with damage, what's the chance I'd just ruin my investment?

So, in the last couple days I've been thinking Northern Lite or Bigfoot fiberglass campers would be a nice option. But, there's 2 issues I see.
1) they extend well past the bumper
2) they are EXPENSIVE!

So, I'm open to suggestions. Here's my questions:
  • Am I overreacting on maintenance for a typical camper?
  • Does the fiberglass shell mean I won't have water issues in practice?
  • Will the factory hitch need replacement if I go with a 9'6" especially since they all seem to have the porch
  • Is a 15yo fiberglass camper old compared to a 15yo wood/aluminum frame camper?
Truck Campers
  • jackrabbit_1's avatar
    jackrabbit_1
    Explorer
    Jun 19, 2016
    Regarding Bigfoot, and other trailers, the roof is not the only place to experience leaks. If window caulking is left unchecked, especially on Bigfoots, water WILL seep into the insulation and walls. Couple of tricks to help deter this. 1) it is very easy to remove and reseal the windows. You may even find room for added insulation. 2) You can buy flexible rain gutters that you cut to length and mold around your windows to alleviate this issue.
    Now, Bigfoots have a radial roof. Water will flow down and streak the sides, including the windows. The rain gutter will be one of the cheapest yet most important modifications you can do. Bigfoots are wonderful trailers, especially if you like late fall and early winter camping! Not roomy, but efficient, especially for dry camping!
    Hope that helps.
  • towpro's avatar
    towpro
    Explorer
    Jun 16, 2016
    on ram builder posted in this thread, where you see Base Weights/GCW/Payload/Trailer Towing charts, the next line down is camper guide.
    on page 11 of the camper guide you will see this. the last 2 are 14,400 GVW trucks which are dual rear wheel trucks.
    I think the weight rating of your rear tires will be your limit
    my wolf creak was real close to my limits on my 06, than I added 500 lbs tong weight for my horse (2 wheel verity) trailer and I was over my tire weight limit. but your new truck should be higher (and heaver) than my 06 was.
    edit: wondering if it came with a slip of paper in glovebox that shows slide-in camper capacities?
  • bkenobi's avatar
    bkenobi
    Explorer
    Jun 16, 2016
    The door tag says 4332# payload and 12,300# GVRW. I don't know how to determine the max camper weight. I looked at the camper guide a while back (have it printed) and the numbers were well below anything listed for payload typically. The guide I have says 2970# or 4339# for two that look identical on the chart.

    If I look at the ram truck builder site:
    https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/towing_guide/pdf/2016_ram_3500_towing_charts.pdf

    I see on page 5 for 4x4, SRW, diesel, 68RFE:
    6.7L CUMMINS DIESEL A6 68RFE 3.42 12,300 4,480 7,825 4,854 2,970 6,000 7,000 25,300 17,010

    That's essentially what the door tag shows (difference is options I have over standard).
  • towpro's avatar
    towpro
    Explorer
    Jun 16, 2016
    I was checking ram body builders website, I do see 4400 lbs payload for SRW 3500 4x4.

    if truck is 11,400 GVW its rated for 3062-3215 lbs. camper
    check it out Ram body builders guide
  • bkenobi's avatar
    bkenobi
    Explorer
    Jun 16, 2016
    It's a LB and I'm intentionally looking for a lighter camper so it will be a minor issue. If I go with the Lance or Elkhorn I know it won't be an issue as I have several examples of that setup with slightly older rigs (2000+ F250 srw for example). My truck lists 4400 lbs payload stock, so I was hoping to stay in the 2000#'ish range. I know wet will be above that.
  • cewillis's avatar
    cewillis
    Explorer
    Jun 16, 2016
    bkenobi wrote:
    Primarily, people are liars or don't know what they are talking about.


    Sorry I can't help with your search -- but you do understand the problem.
  • Bedlam's avatar
    Bedlam
    Moderator
    Jun 16, 2016
    Your buddy needs to log on to rv.net and get some setup advise. I carried an Arctic Fox 811 on my F250 while towing a 20' enclosed trailer with no sway or control issues. I did have to make upgrades to wheels and suspension, but I was driving a SRW.

    Is your crew cab truck a short bed or long bed? You may have trouble finding a short bed camper without an overhang. A horse trailer will have a lot of tongue weight which will take away from your payload for a camper. Are you prepared to upgrade your 3500 like I did my F250 to safely carry a camper and tow horses at the same time?
  • bkenobi's avatar
    bkenobi
    Explorer
    Jun 16, 2016
    I've seen a few used ones on C/L that are in the early 2000's era listed for $8-13k. They are more of a drive for a weekday than I've been able to invest, but I'm thinking it's worth the time. Anything I should know about these units?
  • Wardster's avatar
    Wardster
    Explorer
    Jun 16, 2016
    I have a new NL 8'11" on my short bed truck and pulling a trailer requires about a 42" extension. TorkLift would be the method of choice for your application with the horse trailer, but it's expensive too just like the NL. Upgraded sway bars, StableLoads, shocks, airbags, etc. should help with the pucker factor you experienced earlier.

    With respect to water infiltration on the fiberglass units, it still exists. Even on my new NL I check to make sure the caulking around any of the openings is good and intend to remedy any areas that aren't in real time when I find them. About two hours away from my house here in Ohio is a TC dealership that carries most of the major brands, so I had the opportunity to climb inside a number of units before making the easy decision to pay a little extra for the NL. They are expensive though, but I believe you get what you pay for.

    Good luck

About Travel Trailer Group

44,027 PostsLatest Activity: Mar 04, 2025