First Time Winterizing and I'm Nervous

[Rodie]

I knew the day would come eventually, I have to winterize my own Travel Trailer. There used to be a camper that would help at my campground (aka: He'd do it for me) but alas he has moved on.

At the same time, I purchased a new camper recently and don't have a lot of experience with it yet. It is a Park Model, Gulfstream Innsbruck 408TBS (2011.)

If anyone is willing to read through the checklist I put together and offer any feedback it would be appreciated. I've read numerous posts, watched numerous YouTube videos, etc and tried to put together what I am specifically going to do. I get a little fuzzy in some areas -- especially when it comes to when to close certain valves or leave them open and also what my specific trailer has and needs.

The biggest questions I (think) I have right now:
* Being a Park Model, I don't think my TT has a fresh water tank. I don't see anywhere on the exterior of the camper where you could actually pour water into it -- only the "City Water Connection" which I use (I am a seasonal camper.) I'm thinking I may not need to drain the fresh water tank.
I'm not doing much with the waste tanks. My intent was to fill them with fresh water at the beginning of the process, go through the process, pull them clear at the end, and then dump some antifreeze down the drains. Sufficient?
* I'm going to do air through the lines via compressor, then antifreeze. When doing the air, do I need to run the water pump?
* Is hand-pumping some antifreeze int the City Water Inlet after all of the lines are done via the water pump inlet sufficient?

Anyway, if you have the time and inclination and can offer any comments they are definately appreciated. It's my first time and I'm on my own!

TIA,
Rodie

PROCESS:

1) Close and Fill Waste/Black Tanks with Fresh Water
2) Disconnect Park Water Supply
3) Drain Main Fresh Water Tank (if Existing)
4) Drain Pipes
a. Turn on Water Pump
b. Open a Cold Water Faucet, Wait for Water Flow to Stop
c. Turn off Water Pump
5) Drain via Drain Valves
a. Open all faucets (hot and cold.)
b. Valves located at one of three locations
i. Low Point Water Valves (bottom of camper)
ii. Hot & Cold Water Pipe Valves (under galley sink)
iii. Hot & Cold Water Drain Valves (in exterior compartment)
c. Close all faucets (hot and cold.)
6) Drain Water Heater
a. Turn off Water Heater (All Switches)
b. Remove Plug (1 1/16” Socket (Suburban Model) or 15/16” Socket (Atwood Model))
c. Pull Safety Valve to finish draining and ensure all water out
d. New Anode Rod (Suburban Model) if it is corroded sufficiently
e. Replace Plug
7) Bypass Water Heater
a. Change valves on Heater (from interior)
b. Either 3 valves or 1 valve, depending on configuration
8) Purge Remaining Water with Air Compressor
a. Set Air Compressor to 25-30 psi.
b. Connect Air Compressor Fitting to City Water Intake
c. Turn on Air Compressor
d. ?? Run Water Pump Here ?? – Not Sure
e. Open and Close Faucets, Cold and Hot Separately, one by one until all water is purged.
9) Add RV Antifreeze
a. Disconnect inbound water connection to Water Pump.
b. Connect antifreeze tube to inbound connection of Water Pump.
c. Have multiple bottles of Antifreeze ready and available at Water Pump Location.
d. Insert antifreeze tube into Antifreeze bottle.
e. Run Water Pump 20-30 seconds. Monitor Antifreeze level to ensure continuity of supply.
f. Open and Close Faucets, Cold and Hot Separately, one by one until flow of red Antifreeze is present.
g. Do not over look Shower, Toilets, and Outside Shower.
h. Disconnect Antifreeze Tube from Water Pump and Replace with inbound water connection.
10) Pull and Drain Black Water Tanks, then Grey Water Tanks. Close after drained.
11) Additional RV Antifreeze
a. Hand-pump some Antifreeze into City Water Connection. (?? Not crazy about messing with this valve. ??)
b. Pour RV antifreeze into all drains and toilets.
12) Check Tire Pressure, Fill Tires as Necessary
13) Open Refrigerator/Freezer Doors and Prop Open
14) Close Slideouts
15) Disconnect Park Power
16) Disconnect and Bring home Battery for Warm Storage
17) Disconnect and Bring home Golf Cart Batteries for Warm Storage

SHOPPING LIST & TOOLS

1) Antifreeze Hand Pump/Tube/Connection to City Water Intake
2) Tube and Fitting for Flojet Brand Water Pump for Antifreeze Intake
3) Suburban Water Heater Replacement Anode Rod.
4) Teflon Tape
5) RV Antifreeze
6) Unrelated to Winterization
a. Suburban Water Heater Electronic Heater Replacement Element
b. Suburban Water Heater Electronic Heater Replacement Tool (5” Diameter.)
7) Tools
a. 1 1/16” and 15/16” Sockets, Extension, and Ratchet.
b. Air Compressor
c. Air Compressor Tire Fill Tool
d. Air Compressor to City Water Intake Adapter
e. Flashlight
f. Bucket
g. Towels, Paper & Regular
h. Wrenches, Pliers, Etc.

[CavemanCharlie]

There was less steps to launching a Saturn 5 rocket then that.

[Bigbird65]

Here is a link to a good description of how to winterize. It is pretty generic and applies to a lot of trailers.

[rexlion]

My list was always much shorter for the TT sitting in my back yard.
1. drain fresh tank
2. turn petcocks on water heater bypass
3. remove anode to drain water heater, then reinstall anode
4. pour pink stuff into fresh tank
5. turn on pump
6. open each faucet or valve in succession until pink stuff appears, then turn off
7. lock the trailer door on the way out

Now the list has gotten shorter still. My Aliner has no hot water heater.

[Vet_Man]

I had a park model for years, no fresh water tank or pump. I bought a cheap boat bilge pump from wal-mat. Connect it up to city water inlet, drop it in a bucket of anti-freeze using a 12 volt battery. Pump through all the lines and out the sewer, Add anti freeze to the drains your done. Will need someone to keep the bucket full.

[WyoTraveler]

Didn't realize it was so complicated using anti-freeze. In my previous TT took less than 10 minutes on the road. MH almost 15'minutes because we have a W/D. I just blow out the lines with air.

[Rubber_Ducky1]

According to Gulfstream website your trailer does NOT have a freshwater tank. So I doubt that you would have a water pump. You will have to hand pump the pink antifreeze through the water lines.

[Tennessee_Nomad]

Yessiree that is one thorough list you have there. We just drain the hot water heater, leaving the plug out, and activate the bypass valve. Have the better half go inside and open faucets one at a time while I pump the pink stuff in through the city water inlet until it comes out, then move to the next faucet, shower, tub or whatever else you have water to. Including the outside shower. Pour some pink into the holding tanks, p-traps and toilet, and we are good to go. Less than 30 minute job. We also bring the battery into the garage and top it off about once a month or so.

[Dick_B]

If you are going to add antifreeze (RV pink stuff) to the lines there is no need to use air EXCEPT if you have a Black Tank flushing system and have no good way to add antifreeze to that line. Ditto the campground inlet connection.
Double and triple check that all freezable items have been removed from the rig for the winter. I left a gallon of white wine in a cabinet thinking that it would not freeze; Wrong.

[Rodie]

Thanks for the replies -- I'm beginning to feel better already.

Water Tank/Pump: Still not sure if I have this, I assumed I have a pump due to the fact that there is a switch to operate it on my waste tank status lights thing -- but that same panel is on the majority of TT's and perhaps the switch isn't hooked to anything. I've never tried it being hooked to City Water!

Thanks again!!

[GENECOP]

That's one solid list, been doing my own for years and somehow your list looks longer than mine...

[PapPappy]

Very though list.
You do not need to run the pump when you are blowing air through the system. (#8d) This is the one time you will want to have someone helping you, as they will hold the air to the system, and you can blow out the faucets with each valve.

If you do not have a water tank, you probably don't have a water pump either....as you would be using the city connection for your water pressure. If that is the case, you can get an old garden hose and cut it long enough to where you can pour your "pink stuff" into the hose to fill the water lines. (having someone at the valves to make sure that it flows from each hot & cold fitting into the sink/shower) Having some flow down into the sink/shower drains is a good way to protect the traps too.

Also, if you want to spend the money, you can get a small pump from Harbor Freight and pump the antifreeze into the system, but gravity will work fine, if you've got a ladder handy.

Also, I like to pour about a gallon of the pink stuff into my toilet, and be sure to leave a few inches of it above the seal, to keep the seal from drying out. The extra down in the holding tank (which I will assume is dry) will help keep the drain valve seals moist, and avoid any freezing problems at the valves which are the low point of the tanks.
Again, not sure about Park models, and if you even have tanks, or are directly connected to sewer line??

Blowing out the water lines before adding antifreeze is a good method....some people will only blow out the lines, but some water will still gravitate to the low sections and can freeze. It may not bust any lines, but....it might. Antifreeze will prevent that from happening.

The antifreeze is supposed to be use in 100% concentration, do not add water....or add to water (if possible...hence the reason for blowing out the lines)

Good luck. Once you are finished, you will feel that it was a lot easier than you first thought....and you will find that you can cross off a lot of those steps on your list, but for the first time, better you walk through it....just in case.