Ford truck build

[Kayteg1]

I am trying to figure out the best way to get new truck build the way I like it at it turns impossible.
Don't want to spend extra $10k for options that I don't need, but when I use Ford site to built my truck and start with XL model, it will not let me choose several options like pearl paint, or tan interior.
Nor GPS, when I learned the the center console LCD is just for GPS, while backup camera is using lcd on reverse mirror.
Anybody build Ford Truck to his liking and can share experience here?
My main goal is to get supercab RWD, when those don't exist on dealers lots on whole West Coast (I check dealers in 1000 miles radius)

[Steve_in_29]

OP where are you located? If in Southern CA talk to Bobby Williams at Sunrise Ford in Fontana. He is the Fleet Manager and a very straight shooter.

He found us our last truck at a dealer in Colorado and worked with me to get it. We had to find an 07 leftover since we didn't want the new 08 body style or engine.

He can also take care of ordering whatever you want.

I also HIGHLY recommend the 4WD option, as when you need it you NEED it. Also if you are so light on your front axle that you don't have traction you are loaded WRONG.

[blueglide]

Kayteg1 wrote:
Good post blueglide.
30 days to build? I am getting 90-120 days estimates.:h
But why you need stabilloads? My camper wet is over 4700 lb and my current 2007 F350 dually carries it just fine.
Also how is your front suspension with the stiffer spring coming with camper package?
I figured out that 90+% of camper weight goes on rear axle so stiffer front suspension would be last thing I want.

They quoted me a similar time frame...truck was actually built in about 30 days...then the big snow storms of 2015 rolled through the south...including Kentucky where the trucks are built. Delivery to the dealer was delayed about a month while the plant shipped the backlog of vehicles that were delayed due to the weather. I was pretty anxious knowing it was done and just sitting there in Kentucky. The truck might have carried my camper fine without the Stableloads but I had read so much positive about them I figured they couldn't hurt. I do think they firm up the rear suspension and assist in preventing sway. I have very positive thoughts about them. I don't notice any stiffness in the front end and although it is a large dually truck...I don't think it rides harsh at all empty or full...and I use it as a daily driver also.

[Kayteg1]

To wrap the 4WD issue, as I experienced the resale value in states with dry weather is non-existent.
I spend part of my life in 4-seasons and know that 4WD is crucial in slippery condition, but my present truck is RWD with normal differential and I took my camper on it into some logging roads just fine.
IMHO with camper the front drive will be much useless on rough roads since front wheel will be in the air most of the time. Locking differential will make major difference.
Anyway, can't find comparison in fuel consumption between 4WD and RWD, but assuming 1-2 mpg difference, the extra fuel to carry the option over 50k distance will cost in range of $1000.
Additionally 4WD is adding about 2.5" of height and getting into those Superduties is not that easy and I had to carry in elderly passengers.
So I will consider 4WD as "cheap insurance" that I might never use, but might be good to have "just for 1 in 10000 situations" but it will not be decision maker.
edited for new info and error correction.

[Grit_dog]

Aside from your trying to cherry pick options, I got no answer there. You can get a 2wd super duty with an electric rear locker. It's not 4wd but it helps a bunch.
2wd isn't going to net you more than 1 mpg maybe 2 mpg at best over 2wd.
If it's a $3k option you'll get that back at resale maybe more unless the truck is totally ragged out, or so old it's only with a couple grand or less regardless.
And 4wd works the same whether the locking hubs are engaged or not.

[dunegoon1]

One of the reasons I have a truck camper in the first place is because I use the truck for many other things throughout the year. 4WD is required here for hauling firewood out of the woods, and much more. I've occasionally found it useful with the camper on, too.

As for the luxury items, whatever keeps the wife happy keeps me happy.

[Kayteg1]

Good post blueglide.
30 days to build? I am getting 90-120 days estimates.:h
But why you need stabilloads? My camper wet is over 4700 lb and my current 2007 F350 dually carries it just fine.
Also how is your front suspension with the stiffer spring coming with camper package?
I figured out that 90+% of camper weight goes on rear axle so stiffer front suspension would be last thing I want.

[blueglide]

I ordered my F350 to carry the camper in my sig. I used the Ford online build tool for a dually F350 6.2 gas in the XLT package. I went with the 4.3 rear end, camper package, the factory spray in bedliner, and a few other options I wanted for comfort or convenience. After I spec'd out the truck I printed the final build and took it to my dealer. He went over each option and ordered the truck just as I wanted. Some trim levels will include or prevent certain options but in the XLT trim package I was able to get everything I wanted and avoid a lot of the fluff I didn't want or need. We have been very happy with outcome and with some stabiloads the truck works great. I went through the the same thing as you trying to find a truck on a dealer lot that had what I wanted and it was almost impossible without dropping down to the XL trim level. Hadn't ordered a vehicle since the 70's but it was easy and my truck was built within 30 days.

[FreebirdFlies]

Additional information:

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2015/02/the-real-cost-of-repairing-an-aluminum-bodied-2015-ford-f-150/index.htm


http://www.businessfleet.com/article/story/2015/06/repairing-the-aluminum-body-f-150.aspx

[jimh406]

The new trucks are barely any lighter. They made the frames heavier.

There is a lot of pain on the tail lights. Almost $900 each. 🙂

Edmunds.com Editors Sledgehammer Aluminum 2015 Ford F-150

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDQZu8K51ZY

Edmunds.com Editors Sledgehammer Aluminum 2015 Ford F-150 Part 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um7UpIA4X0s

[FreebirdFlies]

An aluminum vehicle saves you fuel money every day/time you drive it by hauling less weight around. Also less weight to stop, so slightly shorter stopping distance. Might save you a fender bender.
Yes, repair may cost slightly more to your insurance company IF you bend/wreck it, so insurance likely will be just a tad bit higher, but the insurance companies seem to be standing pat waiting to see how the numbers settle out.
I see more gain than pain, but that is just opinion....and we all know what that is worth. Lol

[mlts22]

Don't forget to check if you are eligible for a Ford discount plan. USAA is one way, and some employers have discounts on Fords as well.

I'm sort of in the same boat, but it will be a while before I do a special order (jumped jobs recently when my old contract decided to end abruptly due to a company merger), so this is a useful thread.

I am paying for 4WD though... It may take a little bit more MPG and cost a bit more, but I plan to be in remote places where it can come in handy.

As for 2017 Fords... I understand the aluminium on steel is OK for a half-ton which is mainly a grocery-getter... but for 3/4 and one tons which tend to do actual work? That sort of worries me, although a truck bed can be made out of fiberglass, and because it isn't a structural item, it would be OK.

[805gregg]

Factor GPS in our Honda is garbage, a cheap Garmin is much better

[Kayteg1]

I agree that low gearing is pretty important in hauling.
I used to have 225HP F450 with manual and very low gear. When differential on it broke, I rented F550 with 320 HP automatic and almost created accident when that thing would barely move 18,000lb trailer on intersection. Than of following cold morning the RWD gearing would not pull the trailer from not that steep driveway.
I had to back up on flatter spot and gain some momentum.
Than with my F250 4WD I used the 4 wheel twice in 3 years. Once was when on steep driveway the empty pickup would spin wheels pulling 18k trailer, other time was hauling gravel on steep fresh fill.
But frankly I could avoid those 2 situations.
So my question still stands - how much mpg the truck loses with 4WD?
Even with disconnected hubs, you still have extra weight , extra height and extra transfer case gears to push.
Is it like comparing 17 to 16 mpg, or like 17 to 14?
When you calculate the 2 mpg difference over 50,000 miles before you use the option, it comes pretty hefty price.
Also how low is the low gear on new trucks?
FIY I am planning to move from CA to Las Vegas, where I doubt I will need 4WD for snow 😉
Thanks for the tip of more options while talking to commercial salesman.

[deserteagle56]

I've been going through the "build" process, same as Kayteg, and I found that there are MANY more options available for the XL series than what is shown on the official Ford build site. When I mentioned that to the sales guy at the Ford dealer he said Ford generally lists only the most popular options on that build site. The dealer has a list of all available options and it seems most of the toys available on the costlier lines are also available for the XL model. EXCEPT - paint and interior colors - those are what they are for the XL series and nothing else. I too wanted the the "Light Camel" interior (tan) but no go in an XL.

As far as 4x4 versus 4x2 - doesn't make sense to me to get a 4x2. In a Ford, with the free-wheeling hubs the 4x4 does not exact a mileage penalty as the front wheels are not connected to the axles as they are in a Ram or even a GM. That's why my Ram dually has been converted to have the free-wheeling hubs. For myself, it seems I rarely lock in the hubs - but I use the low range (2.73x reduction) a lot. Anytime any slow, intricate maneuvering is required in low range the truck will just barely creep around with no throttle application necessary, and with hubs unlocked there is no binding of the front end. Makes backing a trailer into a tight spot super easy. Backing a heavy load without that extra gear reduction with an automatic transmission can cause serious overheating of the tranny - a well-documented problem!

4x4 is an investment, not a liability.

[jimh406]

Glossary.

mupine = mine

Just a guess. 😉