โJan-21-2023 09:35 AM
โJan-30-2023 10:24 AM
โJan-30-2023 06:45 AM
Bedlam wrote:
For frame strengthening, I was thinking along the lines of L-stock clamped with U-bolts to the rails. This would prevent the original frame from being drilled or welded. It would be the automotive version of a medical splint or brace. However, I still am not convinced that this is needed.
โJan-30-2023 05:57 AM
โJan-30-2023 04:39 AM
โJan-30-2023 04:12 AM
adamis wrote:
I don't know how this is turning into an argument about weight but since that seems to be the focal point of this thread...
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โJan-30-2023 03:59 AM
adamis wrote:
I don't know how this is turning into an argument about weight but since that seems to be the focal point of this thread...
The first weight I provided of between 4500lbs to 5000lbs which was a guesstimate accounting for camper dry weight, water, food and gear. I was basing that estimate on what I believed the camper dry weight to be 4000lbs and everything else depending on how I loaded it another 500lbs to 1000lbs. It turns out, the actual camper weight to be 1240.06 kilograms or 2733.8lbs when it went out the factory door.
Now, that doesn't include the Onan 2500 genset added later which weighs 113lbs or the AC unit also later added which is ~130lbs give or take a few so dry weight of my camper is 2976lbs. I guess you can add in the LiFePo4 battery and round it up to an even 3000lbs.
As far as the truck is concerned, BigToe, you clearly put a lot of effort into your analysis. No, my truck is not a California truck, it actually came from Texas. It passes smog here in California and that is all I care about. As far as your breakdown of weight analysis, you are quite knowledgeable or have a lot of time, maybe both but in spite of your best efforts, you were off by quite a bit. I can't believe I am actually doing this as I had to dig it out but for the sake of putting this argument to bed...
According to the scales, my truck weight is 7600lbs. By the GVWR rating of 11200lbs on the tag of the door, that leaves me with 3600lbs of capacity, not the 2961 you estimated. The axle rating on the truck is 8250lbs for the rear. By the CAT weight scales, I only have 3380lbs on the rear. That leaves me with 4870 lbs of rear axle weight capacity.
So now that we have the truck weight and the camper weight, we now know that dry, I am 600lbs below the GVWR of the truck. Sure, add in propane, water, food, pots, pans and all the other stuff and I'm sure I'm running over that 3600lbs but it isn't by a whole lot, certainly not overweight by the 1000lb to 2000lb BigToe, GritDog and valhalla360 seem to think. With the axle capacity of 4870lbs, I am confident I am well below that by several hundred pounds or more.valhalla360 wrote:
Excellent breakdown of the subject but I'm betting the OP just keeps insisting that it's OK because he wants confirmation, not an actual answer because it's most likely not the answer he will ike.
It might be an excellent breakdown but it was wrong. As far "insisting that it's OK because he wants confirmation" I asked for no such thing, I only asked if it had been done. I again point out that the question I started this thread was:adamis wrote:
... So, my next thought was to look at having my frame reinforced. I know there are all sorts of complications when going this route though. Ford does fully boxed frames for a reason because it gives so much more rigidity. I no there is at least one person that has done this on their 7.3 from a posting on the Ford forums. This is obviously a huge expense and extreme measure.
Has anyone else gone through this or found a way to handle excessive porpoising on older C channel frame trucks?
There have been several people who didn't focus on the weight and answered my question about adding rigidity to the frame based on their own experiences and knowledge and for that I am thankful. Clearly this isn't something commonly done and there is limited experience. THAT is the answer to the question I asked and for all of you who did focus on the heart of my question. Thank you.
โJan-30-2023 02:43 AM
โJan-29-2023 10:53 PM
valhalla360 wrote:
Excellent breakdown of the subject but I'm betting the OP just keeps insisting that it's OK because he wants confirmation, not an actual answer because it's most likely not the answer he will ike.
adamis wrote:
... So, my next thought was to look at having my frame reinforced. I know there are all sorts of complications when going this route though. Ford does fully boxed frames for a reason because it gives so much more rigidity. I no there is at least one person that has done this on their 7.3 from a posting on the Ford forums. This is obviously a huge expense and extreme measure.
Has anyone else gone through this or found a way to handle excessive porpoising on older C channel frame trucks?
โJan-29-2023 07:08 PM
โJan-29-2023 04:21 PM
BigToe wrote:
Executive Summary:
.......
โJan-29-2023 04:07 PM
adamis wrote:
I have a 1999 F350 Dually Quad Cab Long Bed. My camper is the Bigfoot 2500 and with everything loaded up is probably in the 4500lb to 5000lb range.
adamis wrote:
my truck is only two wheel drive. Fine for California
adamis wrote:
the reason I picked a 7.3 is the smog equipment is non existent. and I'm still legal in California. I also have close to $10k in "goodies" in this engine Larger KC Turbo, Larger Injectors, Chipped,
adamis wrote:
It took me a while to find it but Max Payload for the Crew Cab Dually Long Bed 2x4 appears to be 5355 lbs and the 4x4 is 4910lbs. My camper according to the tag on it weighed 2906 and that included 50 gallons of water and 20lbs of propane. Going to a 4x4 conversion that would leave me 2000lbs for people and gear which would be way more than we would ever carry.
โJan-29-2023 01:59 PM
TxGearhead wrote:
OP: are you sure you're not just seeing the camper rock back and forth, the spring loaded Fastguns doing their job?
โJan-29-2023 12:05 PM
โJan-29-2023 11:46 AM
โJan-29-2023 08:49 AM