Front brakes
I did a brake job on my 2002 2500 Dmax. The back brakes on the right rear were down to metal to metal. Put on a new rotor and pads. Now to the front. There were a lot of pad left but changed them any ...
Forum Discussion
My thoughts...
Fronts not warm...blockage, air in the front lines, MC piston seal, proportioning valve, and hanging caliper are the main things to look for
Easiest and cheapest is to bleed both front lines
Then check if the caliper is hanging. These are single piston with an anvil on the other side of the rotor. That means they must 'center' themselves during any stop and after some friction material has worn off. The caliper slide pin assembly needs to be replaced and properly greased. With the correct grease (high temp, disc brake grease)
My DIY for greasing the slide pin tube (the side pin slides inside this tube), between the O-Rings is to put it together and NOT finish the 2nd O-ring and while the interior is still open, poke in my grease gun for a couple strokes of grease. Then finish with both O-Rings engaged.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Some times, most times also put in some synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1) that has my own mixture of powdered Molybdium Disulfide with this modified oiler
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Bleeding. Normally use the giant "C" clamp method. Lost the Internet posting link when Photobucket switched from freebie to for $$$ and will have to make up another, but have posted it here often. Or use gravity bleed. Be sure to include opening the ABS body valves to bleed them too...this will require a scan tool that can open & hold them open while bleeding
Proportioning splits the braking PSI/GPH between front and rear. It could be sticking and if replaces, must bleed all brake lines.
A very remote possibility is that your front caliper has a pebble/stone/etc wedged in there preventing movement. Have come across one a loooong time ago
Good luck and please report back on how it went
Fronts not warm...blockage, air in the front lines, MC piston seal, proportioning valve, and hanging caliper are the main things to look for
Easiest and cheapest is to bleed both front lines
Then check if the caliper is hanging. These are single piston with an anvil on the other side of the rotor. That means they must 'center' themselves during any stop and after some friction material has worn off. The caliper slide pin assembly needs to be replaced and properly greased. With the correct grease (high temp, disc brake grease)
My DIY for greasing the slide pin tube (the side pin slides inside this tube), between the O-Rings is to put it together and NOT finish the 2nd O-ring and while the interior is still open, poke in my grease gun for a couple strokes of grease. Then finish with both O-Rings engaged.
Click For Full-Size Image.Some times, most times also put in some synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1) that has my own mixture of powdered Molybdium Disulfide with this modified oiler
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.Bleeding. Normally use the giant "C" clamp method. Lost the Internet posting link when Photobucket switched from freebie to for $$$ and will have to make up another, but have posted it here often. Or use gravity bleed. Be sure to include opening the ABS body valves to bleed them too...this will require a scan tool that can open & hold them open while bleeding
Proportioning splits the braking PSI/GPH between front and rear. It could be sticking and if replaces, must bleed all brake lines.
A very remote possibility is that your front caliper has a pebble/stone/etc wedged in there preventing movement. Have come across one a loooong time ago
Good luck and please report back on how it went
