Front brakes

snowpeke wrote:
I did a brake job on my 2002 2500 Dmax. The back brakes on the right rear were down to metal to metal. Put on a new rotor and pads. Now to the front.

There were a lot of pad left but changed them any way. Now for a test drive the back brakes were warm but the front were cold.

Says your fronts are not in the braking ball game *AND* will not bed in properly...if ever

As bedding in requires the friction material to get hot enough to out-gas, which then condenses onto the brake rotor surface. This is part of 'curing' the friction material, and advise that there are many Internet comments that today's friction material does NOT need to be cured...I say as long as there are binders in the friction material, it needs to be cured by high temp baking

Friction material on friction material is the best braking, as that has the highest coefficient of friction.

But do NOT stop while the friction material is out-gassing. That will bake on a thicker layer of friction material that will have future braking 'pulsate', as if the rotors are warped. To remove those higher friction material spots, get up to highway speed and NAIL the brakes. That will scrub off those high spots.

Then continue to roll to get an even condensed layer of friction material on the rotors.

No biggie to have a high spot baked on...just repeat the above highway scrub proceedure

How can I get them to work equally?

My previous response addresses your question and it might take an ASE Master Brake mechanic to diagnose & fix it

Note: am not an ASE certified brake person.

Just someone who has designed industrial disc brakes (most common were 17"-24" dia range) and the biggest one is a 48" dia disc and calipers (half calipers, as they only pressed onto the disc from one side & married with another one on the other side of the disc)