Front brakes
I did a brake job on my 2002 2500 Dmax. The back brakes on the right rear were down to metal to metal. Put on a new rotor and pads. Now to the front. There were a lot of pad left but changed them any ...
Forum Discussion
mkirsch, agree...but drum/shoe setup can be super tuned to be pretty good...still not as good as disc
Supper tune has to start when they are brand new. Once the slider wears a groove in the backing plate, they will never be able to be super tuned.
Part of that super tune is to liberally coat the adjustment assembly with anti-seize grease. Inside the dead-end hole, the rod that pokes into that hole, star wheel side, etc....but...not so much as to have it migrate to the friction material
Then the backing plate where the shoe edge rides on. I rub in (burnish) anti-seize and not so much to have the grease get onto the friction material.
There is a reason all shoes edges have that V or Z bent, and it is to increase the surface area & to NOT wear a groove into the backing plate because the 'swept' area is larger
Also grease the self-adjuster cable routing
Back when was a partner in a SUV/Suburban forum, many complained about poor rear braking performance. Even went out and helped a few and all of them had almost brand new rear shoes when they took it apart (just supervised their hands on, as won't hands on personally). One guy had over 100K miles and his shoes were brand new)
Too many variables to have one size fits all regarding front vs rear braking.
Back on the OP's question/situation...since they didn't notice until the rear went metal to metal, doubt if they will now know the difference with brand-new friction materials on all four. Guessing a repeat to find metal to metal down the road...unless their mechanic found and fixed whatever was the 'real' problem
Supper tune has to start when they are brand new. Once the slider wears a groove in the backing plate, they will never be able to be super tuned.
Part of that super tune is to liberally coat the adjustment assembly with anti-seize grease. Inside the dead-end hole, the rod that pokes into that hole, star wheel side, etc....but...not so much as to have it migrate to the friction material
Then the backing plate where the shoe edge rides on. I rub in (burnish) anti-seize and not so much to have the grease get onto the friction material.
There is a reason all shoes edges have that V or Z bent, and it is to increase the surface area & to NOT wear a groove into the backing plate because the 'swept' area is larger
Also grease the self-adjuster cable routing
Back when was a partner in a SUV/Suburban forum, many complained about poor rear braking performance. Even went out and helped a few and all of them had almost brand new rear shoes when they took it apart (just supervised their hands on, as won't hands on personally). One guy had over 100K miles and his shoes were brand new)
Too many variables to have one size fits all regarding front vs rear braking.
Back on the OP's question/situation...since they didn't notice until the rear went metal to metal, doubt if they will now know the difference with brand-new friction materials on all four. Guessing a repeat to find metal to metal down the road...unless their mechanic found and fixed whatever was the 'real' problem
