Great cooling system on them there SilverAdos!

“All depends how hard the truck was driven with cap off…”
Yeah wasn’t towing and it’s winter time here so no lack of cold air to cool the radiator.
But 300+ miles non stop at 80-94mph (cruise control only goes to 94 lol) including a several mile long 6% grade that drops the trans into 6th or 7th gear to maintain my speed.

blofgren wrote:
You definitely have to love the quality of work at dealerships. I try to do as much as I can myself and just cringe when I have to take any of my vehicles in to a dealership. Thankfully I have a buddy who has a heavy truck shop that can handle most things I can't; and he's fussier than I am so it's all good! :C

True story.
I’ll qualify with I do the vast majority of my own work too. But here’s a quick rundown of the last few years dealer visits.
Wife’s new charger. Radiator replacement under warranty. Got car back, 2-3 qts low on coolant, air intake clamp not tightened and lower rad hose clamp only half on the fitting.
New, well 60k mile 2 year old Chevy pickup. Trans had issue from day 1. Dealer “no issue, can’t duplicate “. At 60k the trans lets loose. 3 repair attempts and almost 10 weeks later, I get the truck back with a new trans, after 2 failed repair attempts and me racking up over 10k miles on their loaner trucks! Lol. And a service writer that got fired….(He was a dipchit but he was not the mechanics so his contribution to the incompetence stopped at the service desk))
This new truck. First lifter replacement fine except only did 50% of the job. Second half is what started this thread.
So aside from the trans (which eventually went how I told them it was going to when I brought it in) the other 2 repairs are pretty simple, straightforward repairs, both botched up with potentially expensive and time consuming repercussions.
I think snakes, car dealer repairs and my wife when she’s mad are the 3 things that scare me the most in life! Lol.

FishOnOne wrote:


Air exposure is a bit of a myth for the Dex Cool to break down and form sludge. I'm certain your coolant is just fine and the coolant in the degass bottle is normally exposed to air and that doesn't cause a problem.

Thank you. I’m comfortable there is no damage nor will there be. I was being polite.
Not going to be a Karen about it at the dealer either.

blofgren wrote:
You definitely have to love the quality of work at dealerships. I try to do as much as I can myself and just cringe when I have to take any of my vehicles in to a dealership. Thankfully I have a buddy who has a heavy truck shop that can handle most things I can't; and he's fussier than I am so it's all good! :C

What is the scope of your mechanical aptitude?

You definitely have to love the quality of work at dealerships. I try to do as much as I can myself and just cringe when I have to take any of my vehicles in to a dealership. Thankfully I have a buddy who has a heavy truck shop that can handle most things I can't; and he's fussier than I am so it's all good! :C

Grit dog wrote:

BenK wrote:
If me, I'd have them flush the OATs coolant on their dime because they left that pressurized cap loose

FYI if you don't know it...OATs (organic acid tech) does NOT play well with O2 in the system and they why the overflow bottle is now pressurized. That is to keep O2 out while checking coolant level. To check these days of OATs & HOATs, just look through the translucent overflow bottle body & the graduations molded into it

The risk is that enough O2 was ingested into the coolant system to do its nasty work with the acid & acid etched metal (oxide) that turns into acidic, gelatinous globules that then stick to the cool-down surfaces of the radiator. That then rots the tube metal

FYI for what it's worth...

I did not know that, thank you. Quick search didn't pick up much about that concern. Do you think it's really feasible that, say, 6hours or so of non pressurized operation could even begin to compromise the coolant?

Heck, I'm still blown away that it didn't boil over!

Air exposure is a bit of a myth for the Dex Cool to break down and form sludge. I'm certain your coolant is just fine and the coolant in the degass bottle is normally exposed to air and that doesn't cause a problem.

Grit dog wrote:
snip... Quick search didn't pick up much about that concern.

snip...

Heck, I'm still blown away that it didn't boil over!

Search using 'deathcool' and there should be tons of comments from all makes

As for not boiling over...agree amazing what the engineers have designed into our vehicles today!

And, depends on how hard that truck was driving while that cap was not tight

Thermal management systems for vehicles are designed for the limits of their specifications (warranty line) and has a LOT of headroom above that line.

Like tow rating (MTWR)...these vehicles are designed for that MTWR, plus some more in margin.

Anything below that, it should have almost no problems

Dadoffourgirls wrote:

mkirsch wrote:

Same guy who doesn't reset the TPMI after rotating the tires. I wouldn't mind so much if there was a way a mere mortal such as myself could do it but you need the special tool to communicate with the truck.

I understand that they should reset, but I have purchased the relearn tool since I swap winter and summer wheels/tires on multiple vehicles.

TPMS relearn

You’re saying GM vehicles should “know” the wheel position for TPMS, automatically?
Trying to remember if my 2016 did, because the 2020 does not.
Chryslers back to the 2006 we had and current 2016s know the location after a tire rotation, although I had to turn off the TPMS display function on the 2016 truck to keep from getting the stupid low pressure warning on every startup. Haven’t cared to spend the money to program that feature now that the gubmint took away that ability.

BenK wrote:
If me, I'd have them flush the OATs coolant on their dime because they left that pressurized cap loose

FYI if you don't know it...OATs (organic acid tech) does NOT play well with O2 in the system and they why the overflow bottle is now pressurized. That is to keep O2 out while checking coolant level. To check these days of OATs & HOATs, just look through the translucent overflow bottle body & the graduations molded into it

The risk is that enough O2 was ingested into the coolant system to do its nasty work with the acid & acid etched metal (oxide) that turns into acidic, gelatinous globules that then stick to the cool-down surfaces of the radiator. That then rots the tube metal

FYI for what it's worth...

I did not know that, thank you. Quick search didn't pick up much about that concern. Do you think it's really feasible that, say, 6hours or so of non pressurized operation could even begin to compromise the coolant?

Heck, I'm still blown away that it didn't boil over!

mkirsch wrote:

Same guy who doesn't reset the TPMI after rotating the tires. I wouldn't mind so much if there was a way a mere mortal such as myself could do it but you need the special tool to communicate with the truck.

I understand that they should reset, but I have purchased the relearn tool since I swap winter and summer wheels/tires on multiple vehicles.

TPMS relearn