Ground power options

[bkenobi]

My NL TC has a 3 pin plug on it with an adapter to fit a standard 15A socket. When removed, the plug is a 3 pin 30A type that will fit into the generator socket in the bay where the cable is stored. My question is, is this designed to be used exclusively with a 110V twist lock type outlet or can it also be used with 220V? There isn't anything that I can see that specifies. I am assuming 110V only, but thought I'd ask a dumb question in case it's not so dumb.

The reason I ask is I'm going to add an outlet on the side of my house and can provide either 110V or 220V. If 220V works and would charge faster that would be good to know. If I'd burn something down, I guess that might be good too.

[SidecarFlip]

Just so long as it's 60 Hertz, I'm happy.

[Old-Biscuit]

bkenobi wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
30A 220VAC will have 3 wires---2 HOT & 1 Neutral
30A 120VAC will have 3 wires---1 HOT, 1 Neutral & 1 Ground

To use that 220V in garage you would need to go back to AC Panel and take 1 hot wire off of a breaker and connect it to the GROUND bus. ID as ground by placing green tape around both ends of that wire (s/b a RED wire but not being code who knows)

In garage you should have 1 Black/HOT, 1 Red/was hot but now being used as Ground and 1 White/Neutral.

Wire nut appropriate wires (black/Hot, Green/Ground, Whote/Neutral to those in box and run to outside wall then into a Water proof 30A RV receptacle/box

This. But since I only need 110V, I'm leaning to just going from a GFI protected 15A already near where the outside box will go. Good discussion, thanks!

That would be YOUR best option

Not understanding that 30A 120V AC is 120VAC just like that 15A outlet
you would best be leaving ANY electrical connections as simple as possible

[bkenobi]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
30A 220VAC will have 3 wires---2 HOT & 1 Neutral
30A 120VAC will have 3 wires---1 HOT, 1 Neutral & 1 Ground

To use that 220V in garage you would need to go back to AC Panel and take 1 hot wire off of a breaker and connect it to the GROUND bus. ID as ground by placing green tape around both ends of that wire (s/b a RED wire but not being code who knows)

In garage you should have 1 Black/HOT, 1 Red/was hot but now being used as Ground and 1 White/Neutral.

Wire nut appropriate wires (black/Hot, Green/Ground, Whote/Neutral to those in box and run to outside wall then into a Water proof 30A RV receptacle/box

This. But since I only need 110V, I'm leaning to just going from a GFI protected 15A already near where the outside box will go. Good discussion, thanks!

[Old-Biscuit]

30A 220VAC will have 3 wires---2 HOT & 1 Neutral
30A 120VAC will have 3 wires---1 HOT, 1 Neutral & 1 Ground

To use that 220V in garage you would need to go back to AC Panel and take 1 hot wire off of a breaker and connect it to the GROUND bus. ID as ground by placing green tape around both ends of that wire (s/b a RED wire but not being code who knows)

In garage you should have 1 Black/HOT, 1 Red/was hot but now being used as Ground and 1 White/Neutral.

Wire nut appropriate wires (black/Hot, Green/Ground, Whote/Neutral to those in box and run to outside wall then into a Water proof 30A RV receptacle/box

[time2roll]

As long as there is a separate neutral and ground (4 wire) you can use that circuit.
Change the breaker to single pole and wire nut one of the Hot for not in use.

Just extend the circuit with #10 or better wire and pull to the place you need it.

[bkenobi]

My garage is not per code as they left it uncovered (taped off but exposed wire in the box). I know it's 220 at the panel, but it's always had the breaker turned off. I guess that actually means I could wire it to what I want. I was planning on using that run and putting a new box outside to avoid running extension cord under the door.

[time2roll]

bkenobi wrote:
I'll just go with 110V. I'm not familiar with the 30A sockets and saw they could be wired either way (have one as 220V in my shop I believe).

Yes and no.
If wired correctly to NEC you will have the right voltage.
If the electrician wires it wrong.... the smoke come out.

NEMA 30-TTR is ALWAYS 120 volt.

NEMA 10-30R is 240 volt.

NEMA 14-30R is 120/240 volt.

Your garage outlet is most likely 10-30 or 14-30. Get a flashlight and look for the number.
Your RV is the first at 120 volt.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/

[Old-Biscuit]

bkenobi wrote:
I'll just go with 110V. I'm not familiar with the 30A sockets and saw they could be wired either way (have one as 220V in my shop I believe).

You have no other choice but to stick with 110V
Any other voltage will DAMAGE ALL of you ELECTRIC GEAR....

30A can be wired 120V or 240V

Just as I posted -----1st reply to you post with the description AND PRETTY PICTURES :S

[Old-Biscuit]

Johno02 wrote:
We stayed at a Volunteer Village that only had the old 110/220 regulated voltage. Heater in rig pulled voltage down to about 115V. Could not run Microwave, did not try to run AC units. Heaters would barely heat at all, We were very careful as we were worried about low-voltage damage. Plenty of amperage, just voltage was low. LED TVs survived Ok.

Think you meant 105V......cause 115V doesn't make sense

Utility company 'standard' is 120V +/- 10% (108VAC---132VAC)

[Johno02]

We stayed at a Volunteer Village that only had the old 110/220 regulated voltage. Heater in rig pulled voltage down to about 115V. Could not run Microwave, did not try to run AC units. Heaters would barely heat at all, We were very careful as we were worried about low-voltage damage. Plenty of amperage, just voltage was low. LED TVs survived Ok.

[Johno02]

Thanks, I found the book, looks like a good one to have on hand.

[bkenobi]

I'll just go with 110V. I'm not familiar with the 30A sockets and saw they could be wired either way (have one as 220V in my shop I believe).

[time2roll]

If you want to charge faster then you need to review your charging system.
Post your converter model for best answers.

Otherwise stick with 120 volt outlet. It is a NEMA TT-30R that you need if you want to plug in direct. Single pole breaker, 120 volts.

[deltabravo]

I'd recommend hiring an electrician to do the job.