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Hitch System Upgrade - Thoughts on Husky Centerline?

RavensFan24
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Reese 1000lb Round Bar WDH system with friction sway control. It's about 8 years old. I've been interested in potentially upgrading and have been looking for something like the ProPride, Hensley Arrow and Husky Centerline. Based on price, it seems like the Centerline would be the best deal, but I know a lot of people on here recommend the Arrow and ProPride. Does anyone here have experience with the Centerline System? It seems based on a little research that they just upgraded to compression cylinders to help reduce sway compared to some other models they had. I saw the ProPride goes for like $2500 and the new Arrow system is about $1800 (at least on eBay). The Centerline seems to be anywhere from $400-$800 and similar technology.

I only get sway in high winds and occasionally with a high speed passing truck, but I'd prefer to never feel it (especially when my girlfriend is driving). Any thoughts would be appreciated. If you have suggestions for other similar set ups with a good price for a quality system, I'm open to suggestions.
2010 Chevy Tahoe & 2015 Keystone Bullet Premier 30'
25 REPLIES 25

93Cobra2771
Explorer
Explorer
ctbailey wrote:
Vote for the DC.

It saved my life last winter. My trailer storage "pad" is level, but the approach has a significant grade to it, so while I'm "straight horizontally," the truck and trailer have a significant "vertical bend" at the hitch. Thus, HA is out.


You just described my exact setup every time I park at home. HA is not out in this situation. It's no more difficult in this situation than level ground. You adjust the spring bar jacks until they are slack and pull out. Don't touch the spring bars. When ready to hook back up, then you simply back into position. Yes, it's that easy.
Richard White
2011 F150 Ecoboost SCREW 145" 4x4
Firestone Ride-Rite Air Springs/Air Lift Wireless Controller
2006 Sportsmen by KZ 2604P (30')
Hensley Arrow

campinia
Explorer
Explorer
I had a basic Eaz Lift WDH with two friction bars for the last two years, it worked ok, but, I still felt the trucks passing a little more than I liked. I have been reading as much as possible the last few months, and finally decided on the Blue Ox Sway Pro. I can't tell you exactly how it works, but I can tell you it works very well. We just got back from a 1200 mile trip and there is very little movement, if any, with strong winds or passing trucks. It is also very easy to assemble and set up. It took about 1 hour to get it set up. The hardest part was finding a torque wrench that I could borrow that goes to 450 ft lbs.
2017 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab LT 2500HD Z71 4X4 6.0 Gasser
2018 Keystone Passport Ultra Light 175BH
Champion 3100W Inverter Generator
2018 Pescador Pro 10 Fishing Kayak
2018 Old Town Topwater 106 Fishing Kayak

carringb
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with Mike... The Blue Ox has limited ability to control sway. I like the rotating latches and the way the bars attach to the hitch head, and it rides better than other hitches. But it does a poor job controlling bow-wave, so I have my doubts it really controls sway all that well. Granted, I haven't gotten any sway with it, but I also haven't gotten any sway without it. Overall, I think I liked my prior Dual Cam hitch more.

Also, I'm getting some pretty good wear on the pivots (the base of the bar-end sockets).
2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST

Dutchie1979
Explorer
Explorer
Mike Up, you explained it yourself in a previous thread how the Blue Ox works. Scroll down near the bottom of page 5.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26669626/srt/pa/pging/1/page/5

It seems like you were ready to buy the blue ox, until other "experts" on this forum who apparently knew more about the system than Blue Ox did talked you out of it.

Main point of my original comment is try things yourself before you state that it does not do what it is designed to do.

jmtandem
Explorer II
Explorer II
The Equl-i-zer brand and Reese Dual Cam does the same into forcing the camper back into alignmennet.


This statement is incorrect. The Equalizer hitch is purely friction base against sway and also against return from sway. It does nothing to return a trailer back to straight from a sway situation. This is one of the shortcomings of that hitch.
'05 Dodge Cummins 4x4 dually 3500 white quadcab auto long bed.

Mike_Up
Explorer
Explorer
Dutchie1979 wrote:

In my previous post I mentioned I used the blue ox and was very happy with it,

Please don't make comments based on what you think is going to happen, use the hitch, you may surprise yourself. I am pretty sure every blue ox owner on here would agree with me that the blue ox is a great hitch.


Can you please then explain how sway is controlled? As I said, it uses principles somewhat like how other sway control devices combat sway 'after' it happens but seems to not have anything to keep it from happening in the first place.

Can you please explain how it keeps sway from starting in the first place since there doesn't seem to be any mechanics in place to do so?

Thanks as that would be really enlightening as many will want the mystery cleared up. In several other threads the mystery on how it would keep sway from starting was never solved although the force to bring back the trailer in alignment could be seen as minimal compared to every other sway control device out there.

I'm sure many would like to know how this device could actually control and prevent sway. Please enlighten!
2019 Ford F150 XLT Sport, CC, 4WD, 145" WB, 3.5L Ecoboost, 10 speed, 3.55 9.75" Locking Axle, Max Tow, 1831# Payload, 10700# Tow Rating, pulling a 2020 Rockwood Premier 2716g, with a 14' box. Previous 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH.

Dutchie1979
Explorer
Explorer
Mike Up wrote:
dodge guy wrote:
The food chain goes like this, Hensley Arrow\ ProPride, Reese Dual Cam, then all the other hitches with integrated friction sway control, and finally an add-on friction sway bar.

If you have the money then go with either the HA or PP. I personally like the DC.


The Husky looks like an Equal-i-zer brand copy with a compression piston over an adjustable bolt for trunnion tightness. Compression piston looks like a much better option that would reduce dog tracking BUT that compression piston may weaken and no way to test or replace it. Wouldn't want to find out it's too weak on the road when sway starts.

The Reese HP dual cam System (Strait-Line) uses a cam lock system along with the downward force on the spring bars when the cam is out of their dedent, to keep the trailer straight and/or to 'force' the trailer back to straight.

It does not rely on adjustable friction points that can lead to dog tracking, as with the Equal-i-zer brand.

The NEW designed Blue Ox Pro eliminated the adjustable friction point in the head to eliminate dog tracking and also eliminated the adjustable head tilt making a predefined permanent head tilt. So now there is no more sway control in the head than any other WDH.

It now uses a rotating chain catch to adjust bar tension instead of a lift bracket. This limits chain movement but not enough to add any real sway control.

Blue Ox says the new flexible spring bars when added with the permanent predefined head tilt, are what really control sway. I can see how this force would try to put the camper back into alignment with the help of limited movement thanks to the rotating chain lift, but there's no lock (Reese Cam and Detent) or friction (equal-i-zer head bolt trunnion tightness adjustment and bracket/spring bar, steel on steel friction). The Equl-i-zer brand and Reese Dual Cam does the same into forcing the camper back into alignmennet. The Equalizer tries to keep sway from starting by using hitch head friction and steel on steel friction, while the Reese Dual Cam using force to lock the spring bar detent onto the Cam and it's steel on steel friction. The Blue OX has nothing to keep sway from beginning, just the force to dampen sway. The NEW Blue Ox seems to have the force to try to stop sway after it starts, but nothing to keep the spring bars locked and to keep sway from starting. It seems the least effective sway control even compared to those add on sway control arms.

The Reese Dual Sway Control system is what I consider the best out of the inexpensive systems but you do need grease on the trunnion ends. Also precise installation is needed so the system doesn't damage itself, which many installers can't do.

I remove the spring bars before I back. I nearly angle 80 degrees to get into my driveway which removal was recommended by Reese support reps.

My best to worst would be Reese Dual Cam, Equal-i-zer, Husky Centerline, and Blue Ox "NEW" Sway Pro.


Mike up, have you ever used a blue ox setup before? I would guess no, but somehow you are a professional on how it doesn't seem to work based on what you think happens with the hitch. I get tired of people making claims on what they think rather than on experience. In my previous post I mentioned I used the blue ox and was very happy with it, I didn't carry on about all the other hitches and how they are bad or don't work. Please don't make comments based on what you think is going to happen, use the hitch, you may surprise yourself. I am pretty sure every blue ox owner on here would agree with me that the blue ox is a great hitch.

Mike_Up
Explorer
Explorer
dodge guy wrote:
The food chain goes like this, Hensley Arrow\ ProPride, Reese Dual Cam, then all the other hitches with integrated friction sway control, and finally an add-on friction sway bar.

If you have the money then go with either the HA or PP. I personally like the DC.


The Husky looks like an Equal-i-zer brand copy with a compression piston over an adjustable bolt for trunnion tightness. Compression piston looks like a much better option that would reduce dog tracking BUT that compression piston may weaken and no way to test or replace it. Wouldn't want to find out it's too weak on the road when sway starts.

The Reese HP dual cam System (Strait-Line) uses a cam lock system along with the downward force on the spring bars when the cam is out of their dedent, to keep the trailer straight and/or to 'force' the trailer back to straight.

It does not rely on adjustable friction points that can lead to dog tracking, as with the Equal-i-zer brand.

The NEW designed Blue Ox Pro eliminated the adjustable friction point in the head to eliminate dog tracking and also eliminated the adjustable head tilt making a predefined permanent head tilt. So now there is no more sway control in the head than any other WDH.

It now uses a rotating chain catch to adjust bar tension instead of a lift bracket. This limits chain movement but not enough to add any real sway control.

Blue Ox says the new flexible spring bars when added with the permanent predefined head tilt, are what really control sway. I can see how this force would try to put the camper back into alignment with the help of limited movement thanks to the rotating chain lift, but there's no lock (Reese Cam and Detent) or friction (equal-i-zer head bolt trunnion tightness adjustment and bracket/spring bar, steel on steel friction). The Equl-i-zer brand and Reese Dual Cam does the same into forcing the camper back into alignmennet. The Equalizer tries to keep sway from starting by using hitch head friction and steel on steel friction, while the Reese Dual Cam using force to lock the spring bar detent onto the Cam and it's steel on steel friction. The Blue OX has nothing to keep sway from beginning, just the force to dampen sway. The NEW Blue Ox seems to have the force to try to stop sway after it starts, but nothing to keep the spring bars locked and to keep sway from starting. It seems the least effective sway control even compared to those add on sway control arms.

The Reese Dual Sway Control system is what I consider the best out of the inexpensive systems but you do need grease on the trunnion ends. Also precise installation is needed so the system doesn't damage itself, which many installers can't do.

I remove the spring bars before I back. I nearly angle 80 degrees to get into my driveway which removal was recommended by Reese support reps.

My best to worst would be Reese Dual Cam, Equal-i-zer, Husky Centerline, and Blue Ox "NEW" Sway Pro.
2019 Ford F150 XLT Sport, CC, 4WD, 145" WB, 3.5L Ecoboost, 10 speed, 3.55 9.75" Locking Axle, Max Tow, 1831# Payload, 10700# Tow Rating, pulling a 2020 Rockwood Premier 2716g, with a 14' box. Previous 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH.

ctabailey
Explorer
Explorer
Vote for the DC.

It saved my life last winter. My trailer storage "pad" is level, but the approach has a significant grade to it, so while I'm "straight horizontally," the truck and trailer have a significant "vertical bend" at the hitch. Thus, HA is out.

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'll preface my comment with the fact that I do not have the years(or decades) of experience others have on the forum. However, I just got back into RV'ing (after a 30 year hiatus), and I got the Husky Centerline with my TT. Yes, to complete the hookup, you do have to be straight. Having said that, you can hook just to the ball, pull straight and then hook the bars up.. or, as pointed out, disconnect bars and then back in, if you can't keep straight once parked. Yes, kinda inconvenient but definately doeable.

I for one am very happy with my Husky Centerline. On my maiden voyage this past weekend, had absolutely ZERO sway, even with trucks going by. On return trip, I put water in the fresh water tank, just to see how the truck handled. Still, rock solid
The hitch is really quiet too. I don't know how "noisy" others are. But, I could not hear it make any noise with the windows up in my truck. With windows down it creaks a bit, but not a big deal. Like I said, I don't know how noise others are.. this isn't silent, but definitely not bad at all.

It does not have chains to make sure you have on the right link (remembering what link to set it on). Again, probably not a big deal, because I suspect that would not be a hard thing to remember.

Im very pleased overall, but admittedly, I don't have experience with the other hitches to compare to.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

93Cobra2771
Explorer
Explorer
Do what I did - I started with a standard friction bar sway control. Quickly ditched that and used a dual cam. Then, I watched craigslist within 400 miles LIKE A HAWK.

Eventually, I found a HA for 450. Yes, 450. $50 in parts and she was on the road. A year later, found another for on $200. Put about 200 in parts in that one and got my dad set up with it. Sold my DC setup and recouped some of that money.

Found another for a friend of mine, but he had to give a bit more - 800. However, no parts had to be bought, and he had some extras including cover and all. If you get a used one, don't forget to factor in the cost of a new stinger should you need. In my dad's case, we took his stinger to a machine shop and had then change the drop from 8" to 2". Needs to be done by a certified welder, of course. That was cheaper than doing the exchange route with HA. The PP has an adjustable stinger so no worries there.

Just saw one recently for 1500. A bit overpriced. You should be able to find a HA or PP in the 800 or less range. I would not pay more than 800 for one.
Richard White
2011 F150 Ecoboost SCREW 145" 4x4
Firestone Ride-Rite Air Springs/Air Lift Wireless Controller
2006 Sportsmen by KZ 2604P (30')
Hensley Arrow

BubbaChris
Explorer
Explorer
Please keep the comments coming folks.

I'm watching this thread because the one upgrade that I may consider this year is my WDH. The Blue-Ox Sway Pro sounds like a step up from my Andersen while keeping a lot of the same benefits.
2013 Heartland North Trail 22 FBS Caliber Edition
2013 Ford Expedition EL with Tow Package

gcloss
Explorer
Explorer
Dutchie1979 wrote:
I recommend the Blue-Ox sway pro, by far the easiest set up and a great WDH. Have been running mine 2 years and it performs flawlessly.


I have to agree the Blue-Ox Sway Pro is an outstanding WDH system. No need to have your TV straight when hooking up, can be connected at any angle. No need to disconnect when backing up, absolutely no noise, all lubrication points are enclosed, so no greasy parts to content with. The initial install is by far the easiest I've ever done and regular hitching up only takes a few minutes.

I've had a Reese WDH with friction sway bar and a Reese Dual Cam WDH. The Blue-Ox is my favorite and it is Made in the USA.
2012 Ram 2500 Big Horn Crew Cab 8' box
5.7 Hemi, 4x4, 4.10
2015 Jayco Eagle 284BHBE

jmtandem
Explorer II
Explorer II
The food chain goes like this, Hensley Arrow\ ProPride, Reese Dual Cam, then all the other hitches with integrated friction sway control, and finally an add-on friction sway bar.

If you have the money then go with either the HA or PP. I personally like the DC.


I think I would add to the top of the food chain the PullRite hitch: PullRite , Hensley, ProPride, etc. PullRite has a pivot point nine inches behind the rear differential. It does not project the pivot point as does ProPride or Hensley. It is actually there. Downsides is weight at around 400 pounds, a little expensive, and usually requires modification of the last couple feet of the exhaust. But the hitch works extrememly well. And it is not a friction based hitch.
'05 Dodge Cummins 4x4 dually 3500 white quadcab auto long bed.