Honda EU 2200i on Eco with AC??

double post

Our Eureka has a 5K BTU window unit and it runs just fine in Eco mode with the Honda Eu2000i.

Below In quotes just to recap, followed by OP update:

3 tons wrote:
Update:

Thanks to All !!....So at 90df in my garage I took the cover off the rooftop Coleman and using a clamp-on meter at the compressor (excluding fan), I came up with this having no other appliances on...

On shore power:
Shore power volts, no load 117v
Shore power volts w/compressor running 113v
Volts at compressor 111 to 112v
Amps at comp motor (minus fan) 9.2a

On Honda 2200i:
Volts at Generator, no load 127v
Volts at Generator, w/compressor running 124v
Volts at compressor 120v
Amps at compressor (minus fan) 9.4 to 9.5a

The results seem a bit ambiguous, but it appears that the compressor amps are high - If I can believe Colemans specs of 9.0 total amps (incl. fan) at 95df (90df during my test), and the fan is supposedly using about 2.5a, then the actual compressor only amps should be about 6.5a, which (if correct) means that the compressor is using 2.5-3.0 extra amps than the specs call for. Seems like quite an overage to me, yet the air runs fine otherwise - maybe a bad omen awaits - lol

The air unit is about 9.5 yrs old, but has not been used a whole lot...I have run it off the inverter only occasionally (for brief times), but the inverter seems to have no problem starting or running it, shore power always works too - Operationally, it’s only the genny that struggles (only when on Eco...), except when the inverter is set to ‘standby mode’ to assist with compressor starts...And this charicteristic is when at higher ambient temps and elevations (4,800’), so it’s not clear to me that it’s all that unusual (I just don’t know....??)....Absent other issues causes me to ponder the ‘outside-chance’ as to whether Coleman’s published spec’s for this particular unit are quite accurate or possibly outdated...Maybe just ‘wishful thinking’ here, admittedly, I have no other experience with a Coleman air conditioner...

3 tons

OP update:

So I changed out the ‘Run’ capacitor with a new one, but first tested the OEM run cap and found (via multi-meter) that it had no charge and would not take a charge, though visually it appeared normal (no leaks or bulges) ...

I also checked the ‘start’ cap (though it is disconnected and unnecessary due to the installation of the Soft-start) and it checked out good...

After installing the new run cap, the compressor ONLY amps (measured after a 30 min warm-up - using clamp-on meter) had dropped from about 9.5 to 6.5, which puts it well within Coleman’s published rating - I applaud their accurate numbers!...However what begs the question is how the compressor could run with a faulty run capacitor, unless the HyperEngineering soft start somehow was able to meter out the power deficit ??

Either way, I’m satisfied for the time being, but what I’ve yet to mention is that during these many trials I also tried to restore the air unit back to OEM by disconnecting the Soft-start and reinstalling the start cap and found that the fan would run but after many repeated trys the compressor would not start... As I said, the start cap measured out just fine, but ultimately this may be an indication that the compressor when at LRA (locked rotor amps) trips its own internal overload device with the start cap in the circuit, whereas the soft-start (start cap defeated) apparently is able to meter out this high current inrush, so the compressor overload never bothers to engage...

Hope this added info helps!

3 tons

burningman wrote:
When I tried mine in the window like that I sealed around it with cardboard and painters tape.

I did use cardboard last year when I did it, but this year I put the AC in to protect the fully loaded TC from the rising temps.As everyone knows,a TC or basically any RV, turns into an oven in hot temps and I have a bunch of stuff in there I did not want to see hit 120 degrees..So I did a quicky and used the curtain to keep the bees out. :B

When I tried mine in the window like that I sealed around it with cardboard and painters tape.

mkirsch wrote:
Logic dictates that if the eu2000 can do it, the eu2200 can do it better.

Your mileage may vary. Some people have no problems. Others have to disable Eco mode. Still others cannot get their AC units to start with a single eu2000. In some cases one eu2000 will start the AC, while another seemingly identical unit will not. There is no guarantee that it will work; all you can do is try.

X 2

bigfootford wrote:

jaycocreek wrote:
Honda 2K on eco mode with 5K window unit right now in the sun..96 out and 71.6 in...But it is a lance..(laughing)

I am interested in how you mounted it....

Can you post a picture or two?

Rounded edges of the Bigfoot windows do create an issue as to mounting.

Jim

I don't have it mounted permanently or know if I will..It is to easy just to throw it in the back seat or behind the dinette seat where I carry my Honda 2K gen set, when I think I might need AC.It is super light to move around and mount with ease.

3 tons wrote:


So having said all that, I now believe that the Easy-start may actually be a contributor to this problem of not being able to run the AC when on Eco.... Understand, Eco operation is my only goal, and from watching the electronic indicators-inverter metering, what happens is that while the genny attempts to step-up RPM to whats the now heavier load (a seemingly lengthy matter), the Easy start sees the deficit and shuts down power to the compressor to the point where a cycling conditioning develops, Compressor ON, Compressor OFF, Compressor ON, etc) though the genny rpm never increases ..... Now, IF (and only IF) the inverter is on, it simply corrects this low voltage condition and happily takes over the entire load, and the generator continues blindly on its merry low RPM way...

So I kinda of the belief that the ‘non-programmable’ Easy-Start (as good as it may be in common applications) is not syncronizing well (or compatible??) with genny on Eco (due to cycling), and the inverter back up takes over without a hitch...

Your above scenario is kind of what happened when running (or attempting to run) my A/C, going through a hardwared Progressive Industries EMS unit.

The generator could not react fast enough to the load demand of the A/C, so the EMS unit would disqualify the incoming A/C power from generator. A/C had attempted to start, but was now in locked rotor condition. A/C compressor would start its countdown time before attempting to restart the compressor (I think that's why there was a delay)... then the process would repeat.

The ONLY way to get the gen to run the A/C was to allow the inverter to start it, turn off eco-mode, EMS and inverter would pass through the generator power, then the A/C would switch over to inverter power.
After that was all said and done, I could turn ECO back on.

The hard wire EMS was part of the cause. I finally removed it and sold it on eBay earlier this year and went to a portable unit.

I haven't tried the A/C on a portable gen because I sold both of my EU2k models.

I'd like to try it on an EU2.2k, but I recently discovered that the original A/C on my AF was an 11k BTU. I installed a heat pump model and went with a 13.5k BTU. I thought the original was a 13.5k

jaycocreek wrote:
Honda 2K on eco mode with 5K window unit right now in the sun..96 out and 71.6 in...But it is a lance..(laughing)

I am interested in how you mounted it....

Can you post a picture or two?

Rounded edges of the Bigfoot windows do create an issue as to mounting.

Jim

sitting here in 93* temps Fired up my Honda 2000i that is at least 8 years old and started my 08 Polar Cub 9200 in eco mode no problem. It's been running in eco mode for the last 5 1/2 hours and its a lovely 71* in my Lance. Old stuff just works....