Hot Water Heater Issues

If it's a Suburban then this should help. Atwood comes out from the other side and I believe uses the same high limit thermostat for both elec. and gas.
replace element

A huge thank you to everyone, really appreciate you guys and gals taking time out of your day to help a newbie like myself out. Look forward to the day when I have enough knowledge to do the same.

A rookie mistake, we've all made them. Now that you have this one under your belt, you are no longer a rookie, so don't do it again! (Ahem!)

Absolutely no doubt the electric element is burned out. They only last seconds if there's no water in the tank. And absolutely you have to purge ALL the air out by running a hot water faucet as long as any air comes out. The high limit switches are safety devices that prevent your water heater from turning into an exploding boiler. Google "exploding boiler + 1930s" for some real horror stories. A tiny boiler like you have would probably only level your trailer along with the ones on either side of it in the campground.

In any case, unless you managed to melt the bottom of the tank off -- which should show up very quickly when you turn on the water, you are probably ok.

There should be a rubber cover with two round circles on your water heater, accessed from the outside of your camper. Push those round spots. Those are the resets for the water heater.

Make sure you have water in the tank, purge all the air out by running a hot water faucet until no more air spits out.

Make sure you have not tripped any fuses in the electric panel (12 volt DC) or the breakers (120 volt AC). If they are either blown or tripped, reset them.

Make sure you have gas in your propane tanks (check the propane flow by turning on the gas stove and lighting a burner). Chances are it's fine, but still, check anyway, sometimes you just never know? Your propane tank could have leaked completely empty ... anything can happen. Just check to be sure you have propane and good pressure.

Now, fire up the water heater with the propane side. See if anything happens. If there is no clicking (electric sparking) to ignite the gas, there's a deeper issue. If it fires up, then you are good to go. Turn the gas setting back off.

Now, make sure the electric side is working. Your water heater may be double switched. There is a rocker arm switch at the water heater, accessed from the outside of the camper. This needs to be in the "on" position. In addition, you may have an electric on-off switch inside the camper for your water heater. This also needs to be "on". Flip both on and listen. If it starts heating, you will be able to hear a slight hissing, humming sound from the water heater. Things have to be very, very quiet to hear it. If you hear it, you are good to go.

Now, if you have gas working but not electric, chances are the electric heating element is blown. The are not difficult to replace if you have the correct size socket. That is the problem, finding the socket that actually fits that element. Elements can be purchased at Lowe's Home Centers or a local RV dealership parts shop.

If you still have failure with both gas and electric, then the next common part that both systems share is the thermostat. I had one replaced a year ago when I turned both gas and electric on with no water in the tank. But I took mine to an RV shop and they figured it out.

Good luck. Hope this helps.

The red light just stays on. I ran the water for a while before I turned on the propane heat, I think thats what you mean by purging all the water after I opened the valves. I just watched some youtube videos on changing elements, and I definitely believe I am capable of doing it on my own. Anybody have any recommendations on where to get the heating element from????

So did you purge all the air out of the tank after you turned on the valves? The electric element is melted for sure but it should still heat on gas. Does the red gas light come on and stay on or turn off after 30 seconds?

I appreciate you information, and be patient with me, but the eletric element is why the electric part of the water heater won't work, and not to sound stupid, but does that also affect the propane heater, or does that have to do with the high limit switches???? I'm not really sure what the high limit switches are..... Also roughly how difficult is it to replace the electrical element???? Is it something I should bring it in to the repair shop??? Or can a person with average intelligence, and average mechanical knowledge handle it. Again Thanks a ton for the information.

Definitely blew the electric element and maybe tripped the high limit switches. Replace the element and reset the limiter's and I suspect you'll be fine.
No need to replace the whole thing!