โOct-06-2018 03:28 PM
โNov-07-2018 11:41 AM
โNov-04-2018 03:00 PM
northshore wrote:
Wow if you can get AF to do that much repair for $2k + that would be the way to go, I know when I checked with our local RV place about 6 mos. ago. That guy wanted $2k just to get started, he told me about ta dozen times that this is an expensive undertaking... so if AF will do repairs, thats the way I would go.
โNov-04-2018 11:42 AM
โNov-04-2018 11:12 AM
โNov-04-2018 11:01 AM
presh223 wrote:Downwindtracker2 wrote:
It's just fiberglass and polyester resin with a thin gelcoat, you are dealing with. Once the air is allowed out, it should flex.
Most of the time will be used in the mold/strongbacks making which once your two templates are made, they can be done in a basement. A couple of weeks of evening with your new spindle sander. Wear a dust mask. Ask System Three out of Portland which epoxies they recommend. An old eggbeater hand drill is the perfect tool for drilling the tiny holes for the injection. Big agricultural syringes might be harder to come by.
The repair can easily be done on a weekend, and covered by, get this, a tarp, chuckle.
My neighbor has done a couple of delams under windows on his '08 Fleetwood toy hauler. And has a couple more to do.
We have ORV travel trailer which had 1/32" or less checkerplate on the nose, which I dented. I replaced it with 1/16", and framing behind it. 2 years in ! I had a hard time finding a shop to roll 1/8" so I swapped the 1/8" for 1/16" and got a free roll.
My hunting camper is a stick and tin.
Nash might still be using the mold , so you might ask them for parts. They are just south and east of you in Le Grande . That would do a much nicer job, but it would be more work.
BAHAHAHA cover it with the initial offender. No covered workspace unless I build it myself. I may have to wait to do it when I get to san diego and just keep it watertight in the interim. Which really sucks because I presently have access to all of my tools. Definitely, something to think about.
โNov-04-2018 09:28 AM
โOct-09-2018 11:07 AM
northshore wrote:
I see you are thinking about using a piece of diamond plate or something like that to cover the "ugly area"
IF you go that route, consider just removing that front window and covering over that area . Of all the campers we looked at, when we were hunting for ours that window was the first place I looked for problems. It seems that a huge percentage of campers have problems with that front area not being sealed. Our first Lance did not come with a window in the front and we did NOT miss having a window in that place one bit.
Just an idea and may even help in your decision when and how to cover that area with diamond plate or what ever you choose.
I know what you mean about that delimitation being ugly I dont think i could live with it like it is, but then i tend to be somewhat picky
โOct-09-2018 07:10 AM
โOct-08-2018 03:13 PM
โOct-08-2018 03:10 PM
Downwindtracker2 wrote:
It's just fiberglass and polyester resin with a thin gelcoat, you are dealing with. Once the air is allowed out, it should flex.
Most of the time will be used in the mold/strongbacks making which once your two templates are made, they can be done in a basement. A couple of weeks of evening with your new spindle sander. Wear a dust mask. Ask System Three out of Portland which epoxies they recommend. An old eggbeater hand drill is the perfect tool for drilling the tiny holes for the injection. Big agricultural syringes might be harder to come by.
The repair can easily be done on a weekend, and covered by, get this, a tarp, chuckle.
My neighbor has done a couple of delams under windows on his '08 Fleetwood toy hauler. And has a couple more to do.
We have ORV travel trailer which had 1/32" or less checkerplate on the nose, which I dented. I replaced it with 1/16", and framing behind it. 2 years in ! I had a hard time finding a shop to roll 1/8" so I swapped the 1/8" for 1/16" and got a free roll.
My hunting camper is a stick and tin.
Nash might still be using the mold , so you might ask them for parts. They are just south and east of you in Le Grande . That would do a much nicer job, but it would be more work.
โOct-08-2018 02:50 PM
โOct-08-2018 01:59 PM
Downwindtracker2 wrote:
Boat owners deal with delamination a fair bit. Polyester resin doesn't stick to wet wood. West System has vids on it. Watch them. I like using epoxy for repairs and building. Inject epoxy and clamp, simple.
I would rate that as an easy fix,pulling the window allows you to clamp. A male and female molds, and very serious strong backs. I would build them out of 3/4" plywood and 1/2" RediRod. A jig saw and a drum sander would your friends as you make 14? identical curved plywood edges for your female mold. You'll need fewer male. Look at the mold stations on cedar strip canoes .
Not very difficult but certainly time consuming.
While you're at it, pull all the windows and corners and seal with Proflex or Stkaflex.
โOct-08-2018 12:35 PM
โOct-08-2018 12:14 PM
ardvark wrote:
I am also familiar with their product having used it. The video is fine as long as you bear in mind it shows repair in one of the easiest locations at a window. What I found is being able to clamp things while the glue dries is crucial and in many locations can be really difficult.