How to mount batteries on my TT tongue.

[Flatfive]

I have a 20' 2002 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx. Just getting it up and running. We're the new owner and new to trailering. Planning an 8-month trip around the US starting Feb 1st. We bought one 12V 109 AH battery that is 12" long. The tongue has two spaces for batteries that are exactly 12" long. The battery wedges in fine but now there's no space for a battery box. I guess I could cut the bottom out of a plastic box and put it over the batteries. (I think I'll get a second battery) Then drill some holes for battery tie-down rods. Appreciate any suggestions.

[mtofell1]

I fit two batteries in separate boxes w/covers on my extremely minimal tray. I had to cut off the side handles on each box where they align but it's otherwise just fine. Routing the cables out/in the boxes was also a bit of a challenge but worked out okay.

Check out Walmart or Camping World. There are a lot of different size boxes and trays.

[Rbertalotto]

Another RoyB here!

You might want to check out the mods I did to my trailer and the aluminum battery box I recently built for two Group 31 batteries.

www.rvbprecision.com

I'm here to tell you that a large (at least 250 watts) solar system, properly installed with the proper size wire and charge controller is an awesome advantage.

I attend motorcycle and shooting events that last three days and three nights. Many time in cold temp where the heater is running throughout the night. So far, I've not had to start the generator once and my batteries are fully charged by 2pm the following day as long as there is relatively good sun. (this is April through October up here in the Northeast)

But I would never travel far without my two Honda 2000ie generators. Can't run the AC or the Microwave off the solar system. Would take a truck load of batteries and more solar square feet than I have roof area!

Good luck and safe travels!

[bobndot]

RoyB, thanks for that info.

[mbopp]

I didn't have room for 2 battery boxes on the mounting rails between the frame. So I made a tray out of angle iron that's bolted to the top of the frame rails:

[DougE]

I don't know what your tow vehicle is, but modern trucks have the alternator output controlled by the computer. They can be problematic for charging a trailer battery while towing. A good, modern, high output stand-alone charger to top off the trailer battery when 120v is available is the simplest solution.

[DougE]

I ran trailers for years with exposed batteries - no problem. (I usually store them in the garage when not traveling so they won't walk off.) There's lots of plastic tubs at Walmart. You could put one upside down over the batteries and secure it with a bungee cord.

[SageCrispin]

Solar, more batteries, better hookups are all good, but IMHO, a generator should be your first line of defense. Works in the dark/rain, if new will be reliable, and if you have a siphon, your truck will always be able to provide fuel.

If you really want bare bones, a small inverter hooked to a running vehicle engine can provide emergency power. I guess what I'm saying is, you need a back up plan, and it should include generating active power, not just a passive system.

Just my 2 cents.

[RoyB]

bobndot - I ran a separate 4AWG cable from my truck start battery setup to another rear mounted two-pin connection with lift lid. Too large to use the 7-way connector. I didn't want to disturb any of the OEM wiring away...

Got my connector and plug from ETRAILER POLLAK PK12800 and PK12801 looks like this




My OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer has two large trailer cables that plugs into my truck setup. I haven't done it yet but going to add a second external battery bank in the truck bed to use for other radio operation equipment when no connected with the off-road trailer....

Roy Ken

[bobndot]

Question for those using an 8 ga. charge line.
When running an 8 ga. wire for battery charging in a TT application, will the thicker wire fit into the 7 way plug ? ( or is it limited to the smaller 12 ga. wire ? )

The only TT that I used WD bars was my 37 ft TT and my 30 ft TT on a factory sprung 250. All my other trailers were under 6k and I didn't use WD bars.
Today, I can tow my loaded up 6000# TT using WD bars or not using them . I can't notice a difference on my set up when im towing . I do use a friction sway control for passing trucks and crosswinds.
I tow using a 250 pickup with 2 added leaf springs in my pack. When I hitch up my approx. 700# hitch weight, my truck only drops 1/2" to 3/4" and I do not see too much difference in the front end height, maybe 1/4" .
When the transporter towed it to the dealership, he didn't use equalizer bars .

[RoyB]

This is not so much on mounting batteries on the trailer tongue but offering some pre-planning thoughts on getting setup with your smaller trailer. My battery bank is mounted across the top of the trailer tongue shown here... I am very prone to battery theif...


Having been camping off-road alot since late 2008 with a smaller trailer charging of the batteries is a big deal. IMO a small generator is a MUST HAVE item if you are going to be using your trailer for more than flashlights and candles.. Our present battery bank produces 255AHs of capacity...

The SOLAR of course only works when in high SUN and if the batteries are at zero or less than 50% charge state you have charging rules to follow to get them back up to their required 90% charge state before you start using them again. If you don't follow these charging rules then you will be replacing your batteries very early. Small solar panel installs will not produce enough DC current to maintain your batteries properly especially if you are draining them down to their 50% charge each day/night battery run.

The same goes with expecting the trickle charge coming from the truck alternator when driving between off road camp camping spots every couple of days. You will find yourself in deep trouble IMO expecting this to work for you.

We found out real quick just having 6 AMPS or so of re-charge DC Current available for short periods of time was not enough DC current to keep our batteries properly charged with our style of camping off road.

I have seen many times up to 20-22 AMPS DC current being drawn from the battery bank between the hours of 4PM to 11PM with our style of camping off road. This is alot more than just flashlights and candles...

Having the small 2KW portable generator around to use is most definitely a must have item for to use... Connecting the trailer on-board CONVERTER/CHARGER system to the 2KW generator will bring our battery bank up to its 90% charge state each morning when allowed in a three hour generator run time.


Public Camping on the East side of the US has more generator run time restrictions then camping on the West side of the US where there are more public off-road dispersed camping sites available.

Solar panels for us would be just enough panels to provide enough DC current in the 5-6 hours of expected high sun to top off our battery bank back up its 90% charge state after we have run the generator for the first one hour period to get our battery bank past the initial high current charge state. Then the smaller solar panels can get us to the 90% charge state before the high sun goes away. Keep in mind that a typical 120WATT Solar Panel will only produce a 5-6 DC AMPS that can be used to re-charge your batteries. Most trailers have a parasitic battery drain of 1-2 AMPS DC that is there 24/7...

We had to consider all of this in our planning for using our OFF-ROAD POPUP camper setup...

If you will convert your high current trailer lights to LEDs and maybe only run your HDTV set-up for a couple of hours each evening you can get by pretty easy on using the battery setup. Once you start doing this the want for more batteries comes on fairly fast.

To keep from getting into trouble 50 miles back up a good ole creek side camp site doing what you want to when camping I suggest you make a few dry runs in your back yard "with no cheating" and see how well you make it... This will let you know pretty quick where your short-comings will be...

By the way I don't have WDH on my loaded 4200lb OFF-ROAD POPUP setup being pulled by my F150 truck but in my case the very low wind resistance with my trailer in its down travel mode probably has alot to do with being stable going down the roads. If I was pulling a higher trailer I would most likely want to install the WDH... We travel on the smaller two lanes road alot verses the Interstates and the wake from one of those hugh Georgia Pacific log trucks loaded to the maximum height with logs going 60-70MPH will swamp you out on a two lane roadway in a heart beat especially if you pulling a normal height trailer behind you... The last thing you may remember is the big smile on the truck drivers face... hehe

This is what we usually look like camping off-grid here along the Blue Ridge/Skyline Drive high country somewhere.


This is all based on my camping experiences - I'm sure others will have different thoughts...

Roy Ken

[Huntindog]

Swapping would be a pain... Just leave the old wire in place, but disconnected at both ends,,, then run the new wire as you see fit. Easy peasy.

Flatfive wrote:
Fred,
Our tow vehicle is a 1-ton 2000 Dodge Maxivan. I don't really want to swap out those wires. I'm an engineer but that sounds like a pain. I was planning on unplugging the umbillical when parked.

[Flatfive]

Fred,
We don't have WD bars. Is that a problem? We towed it up here to Sonora from Sacramento and there was no problem.

[westend]

I'd suggest to get a decent battery box that you can lock, install a disconnect switch, Install a circuit beaker if you don't have one.

Solar and RV battery charging is like peanut butter and jelly. You could buy just a small 100W module, leave it unmounted and wire up a couple of connectors. Install a $20 solar controller to have a decent portable battery charger. Lean it toward the Sun when camped and have a spot for it to hang when traveling.

[Flatfive]

Fred,
Our tow vehicle is a 1-ton 2000 Dodge Maxivan. I don't really want to swap out those wires. I'm an engineer but that sounds like a pain. I was planning on unplugging the umbillical when parked.