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I think I goofed.

Rovito
Explorer
Explorer
I had a Nissan Xterra pulling a KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH. The Xterra pulled the camper with no problems in the power side of things as it was rated to pull 5000 pounds and the camper loaded was pushing 3000 pounds. The only real problem was the Xterra wheel base was only 106 inches and there was way too much sway for comfort. I found a 2001 F150 xlt supercab at a local dealership and did a quick google search on the towing capacity for that year and line. 7000 to 8000 pounds came up so I figured it would give me over a foot longer wheel base and up my towing capacity a couple thousand pounds at least. Done deal. Love the truck. No rust, low miles, has a factory towing package. Can't wait for spring to hook up and go! Today I was looking into specs on Fords generic towing guide and see that with my axle ratio at 3.08 I actually only have a 2000 pound rated tow capacity. I ran the vin on Fords site and one spec does say 3800 LB(1724 KG) Rear Axle Assy. My questions are, what will happen if I pull the 3000 pound camper with the truck as is? Is it worth the money to get the ratio changed to up the towing capacity? Why does it have the towing package built in only to haul 2000 pounds. Is there a way to tell if axle ratio has already been changed? I think I goofed.
2001 Ford F150 pulling a KZ Sportsmen classic 19BH.
50 REPLIES 50

allen8106
Explorer
Explorer
DanNJanice wrote:
Rovito wrote:
I had a Nissan Xterra pulling a KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH. The Xterra pulled the camper with no problems in the power side of things as it was rated to pull 5000 pounds and the camper loaded was pushing 3000 pounds. The only real problem was the Xterra wheel base was only 106 inches and there was way too much sway for comfort. I found a 2001 F150 xlt supercab at a local dealership and did a quick google search on the towing capacity for that year and line. 7000 to 8000 pounds came up so I figured it would give me over a foot longer wheel base and up my towing capacity a couple thousand pounds at least. Done deal. Love the truck. No rust, low miles, has a factory towing package. Can't wait for spring to hook up and go! Today I was looking into specs on Fords generic towing guide and see that with my axle ratio at 3.08 I actually only have a 2000 pound rated tow capacity. I ran the vin on Fords site and one spec does say 3800 LB(1724 KG) Rear Axle Assy. My questions are, what will happen if I pull the 3000 pound camper with the truck as is? Is it worth the money to get the ratio changed to up the towing capacity? Why does it have the towing package built in only to haul 2000 pounds. Is there a way to tell if axle ratio has already been changed? I think I goofed.

I just looked it up too, that is just a crazy amount of difference in towing capacity. You loose over 4000lbs of towing cap going from the 3.31 to the 3.08.
You need to talk to someone who really knows why there is such as big difference in towing capacity, to determine if it would be cost effective to change the ratio.
If you got a decent price on the truck, I would probably just sell it to break even, and pick up one with a 5.4V8.


If you read his post you will see he already has the 3.08 gear.
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dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
On the gauge, an even better and cheaper alternative is an OBDII dongle and an app for a smart phone, I use Dash Command on my IPhone. There is also another one but for he life of me I can't remember it, something Pro? They will not only give you trans temps from the sensor built into the trans but actual temp readings for all other parameter of the engine/trans. The dongle is about $20 and the app is another $10 plus $10 more for your specific year vehicle. Well worth the $30 and no install!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

penguin149
Explorer
Explorer
I had a 1998 F150 4.6L 2WD that came with 3.08's. Towed a 24 ft TT, about 4800#. You will NOT break any speed records moving from a dead stop! After a couple of short, flat trips, I swapped for 3.73s. Best decision ever! Do what they guy above said: replace shims, seals ,etc. Also think about adding a tranny temp gauge; less than $100 from Summit and you can put to sensor in the test port on your tranny. That will allow you to watch the temp but with a 3000# trailer, probably a little overkill.
2021 Nissan Titan Pro-4X 5.6L V8 4WD - 2019 Keystone Bullet 243BHS

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
DO NOT provide the parts, but have your mechanic/shop buy it to your spec...that
would be like bringing in a raw steak to a restaurant and asking them to
cook it for you...with a warranty that it will be a good steak...

Also, make sure they put in writing their guarantee. Normally a
time and/or miles (the parts supplier should also have a warranty)

DO NOT tow until you have a min of 500 miles on the new gear set and make sure
the shop includes the price to flush it after 500 miles

Use synthetic lube with Moly...only if it is an open diff...if clutches of
any kind...then no super lube...just straight up synthetic
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

wcjeep
Explorer
Explorer
The special day tools required make no sense to buy for a gear change. It's straight forward swap on an 8.8 rear axle. Local Offroad shop, local mechanic or dealer should be able to accomplish. Replace all seals. 3.73 is what I would do. This will eat more fuel when empty. Your current 3.07 were installed for best fuel mileage.

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Rovito wrote:
If I do decide to swap it out Will THIS work?


Yes. you will also want an install kit (new bearings, shims, crush sleeve, and while your at it axle seals). still worth every penny. and yes the 3.73 will be a good ratio to move an even bigger (not too much bigger) trailer if you`de like!

Oh, ya. and you will have to have the PCM reprogrammed for the new ratio.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Rovito
Explorer
Explorer
If I do decide to swap it out Will THIS work?
2001 Ford F150 pulling a KZ Sportsmen classic 19BH.

jerem0621
Explorer II
Explorer II
Something I learned on this generation F150. Many people look for a transmission cooler and see a cooler on the bottom drivers side of the radiator support and assume this is a transmission cooler. This is a power steering cooler. So, OP, please verify that you have a factory transmission cooler.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control

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dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
With a 3k lb trailer you should be fine. see how it tows. if you don`t like it go to 3.55 or 3.73. very easy and affordable on a Ford 8.8.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Perrysburg_Dodg
Explorer
Explorer
Rovito wrote:
What's the worst case scenario if I pull as is?
I do have a good equalizer and anti sway system.


I'm sure it's been answered by now but sway is not the issue here it is being able to efficiently move the weight down the road. You bought a very large grocery geter. Re-gear to a 3.92 or something close to that so if you move up to a larger RV you will still be good. Would a 3.55 work, for that size TT yep but if you are shelling out the cash do it right the first time.

BTW to the guys saying the truck is lacking something like coolers or whatever, the OP has said the truck has the factory tow package but has 3.08 gears. The thing that does not sound right is the gear ratio! If you ordered the tow package back then didn't the ratio get upgraded to 3.73's or something like that. BTW those would be a bad gear for your truck either. Point is the tow package gives you HD alt., cooling, engine/trans coolers and gear upgread. Not a Ford guy anymore but maybe the truck was special ordered with the 3.08 rear end?

Don
2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab SWB 4X4 Ecodiesel GDE Tune.

Fast_Mopar
Explorer
Explorer
I've extensively towed heavier trailers using 2 different Ford minivans (Windstar and Freestar) without towing packages (rated for 2000 lb). My experience was great, and you have a V8 which I did not have. I'm not telling you what to do, because it is your choice, but I would do it in a heartbeat if it was my truck.
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Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
That huge drop in towing capacity has to do with startability up a grade. If you're not planning on doing launches from a dead stop up steep grades, you'll be fine. Our '94 F150 with 5spd manual and 3.08 was rated for only 2k lbs towing. We towed 7k lbs. Just stayed out of the mountains. Our '95 Aljo 1850 weighed 4400 lbs. We towed it to Cherokee NC one year and it did fine. The 3.08 is actually a good highway gear to run in direct with as apposed to O/D. That's just my experience. Not recommending anyone break the rules.
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BenK
Explorer
Explorer
There is a difference between "can" and "rated" in regards to towing...or anything to do with specifications...

Rated for it should have it do it for hours on end...for years...as the designers engineered in margin...AKA safety factor...to last through warranty..plus a bit...

"Can do it" will have performance issues and the wheels will fall off sooner...

Change the components to match a higher rated F150...or decide to reduce your trailer size...or a higher
Rated TV
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

jerem0621
Explorer II
Explorer II
I wouldn't pull as is. I have a 4.6 in my Town Car with gears similar to yours and it's fine for daily driving but no way would I tow with it without swapping to 3:55 minimum.

My father in law used his 01 Expedition with 3.31 and a 5.4 ... no heavy duty cooling or trans cooler and he fried his tranny after a few heavy pulls (4-5k) over mountains

I would regear to 3.55 or 3.73 (had 3.55 in my 97 F150 with a 5.4 V8 and it was a good in-between gear) add a stacked plate transmission cooler and use the truck you have.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control

It’s Kind of Fun to do the Impossible
~Walt Disney~