I think I goofed.

[Rovito]

I had a Nissan Xterra pulling a KZ Sportsmen Classic 19BH. The Xterra pulled the camper with no problems in the power side of things as it was rated to pull 5000 pounds and the camper loaded was pushing 3000 pounds. The only real problem was the Xterra wheel base was only 106 inches and there was way too much sway for comfort. I found a 2001 F150 xlt supercab at a local dealership and did a quick google search on the towing capacity for that year and line. 7000 to 8000 pounds came up so I figured it would give me over a foot longer wheel base and up my towing capacity a couple thousand pounds at least. Done deal. Love the truck. No rust, low miles, has a factory towing package. Can't wait for spring to hook up and go! Today I was looking into specs on Fords generic towing guide and see that with my axle ratio at 3.08 I actually only have a 2000 pound rated tow capacity. I ran the vin on Fords site and one spec does say 3800 LB(1724 KG) Rear Axle Assy. My questions are, what will happen if I pull the 3000 pound camper with the truck as is? Is it worth the money to get the ratio changed to up the towing capacity? Why does it have the towing package built in only to haul 2000 pounds. Is there a way to tell if axle ratio has already been changed? I think I goofed.

[mkirsch]

If you try to tow with it as-is, you probably won't be happy with the performance.

That is all that will happen, UNLESS the transmission is already on its last legs, which is entirely possible on a 16 year old truck. Then it is likely that the transmission will fail, but it would fail whether you were running a 3.08 or a 4.10 ratio.

You will simply stop driving it long before anything bad happens unless you have absolutely no common sense, and wouldn't know an underpowered towing situation if it came up and bit you on your arse. Since you had the good sense to doubt your decision, I don't expect you're one of those people.

[BenK]

Even though a 'pickup', this is the low end spec version that is
discussed often...as many confuse the other dozen or more F150's

Best to use their GVWR, RGAWR and GCWR as reference...marketing badging
changes from model year to model year...but the Ratings does NOT

Here is a good site to check all the F150 offerings on one site
2001 F150 Specifications

Key spec that I'd look at if considering a purchase would highlight
this year and class 'half ton' shows a RGAWR range from 3.8K to 5.3K
A 1,400 lb difference for payload, hitch and tongue weights (look
at the "rear axle specifications" area

Then another telling area are the tire class offered or married to
a sub-class of these F150's. Notice that some are 'P' class
(lowest and are 'Passenger' tires that must be de-rated a min of 9%
when used on pickup trucks)

That scenario continues and showing/telling on which F150 is in
discussion...grocery getter (car) to TV

Note saying bad...just pointing out the specification & HOW2 metrics
in weighing which one to get...of course too late for this OP and
hope a good source for future buyers (lurkers)

The OP can change the diff ratio to a higher numeric and assume his
'tow package' has the right stuff to go along with that better towing
ratio...also note that MPG will drop when driving empty and might
even go up when towing...as the ICE won't be working as hard


Also for the OP...you can check the diff ratio (both 2WD and 4WD)
by this method:

Tape a length of string to the drive shaft...at it's lowest point

Roll the vehicle one tire rev using the valve stem as reference.

Whole turns of string on the drive shaft is the whole number of
the diff ratio. 3 turns means a 3.08, 3.54, 3.73 etc

Fractions of a turn are the rest of the diff ratio. If 3/4 of a
turn, then a 3.73. If half a turn, then a 3.54, etc

Remove the string when done (gotta say that as on another forum and
here in the past)...got yelled at for not saying that, guess they
wound up a bunch of string on their drive shaft... :S

Rovito wrote:
These are the specs from Fords web site when I run the vin.
Primary Features
Build Date: 22.08.2001
Vehicle Line: F150
Body Style: Super Single Cab
Version: 150
Engine: Romeo V8 4.6 SOHC EFI
Transmission: 4R70W (AODE) 4-Speed Auto Trans
Drive: LHD RWD
Axle Ratio: 3.08
Emission: With 49 State Emission Requirements
Air Conditioning: Manual Air Conditioning
Territory: (+)"USA"
Paint: Oxford White

[SouthpawHD]

Grit dog wrote:

Bionic Man wrote:
It is a 5000 pound trailer. Don't over think it. You are fine.

Lol. You know someone here will reccomend a 3/4 ton before the thread is over!

I'm shocked that hasn't happened yet! Those folks must all be busy today...

I agree with Bionic, it's a smaller trailer (I think you said only 3,000 pounds), don't overthink it.

Also, it's a truck.... Smaller rear gears, but other than that it's not a Prius, it's a truck and built to do things. So go ahead and start with a small trip and see how things go.

Another poster also suggested a new rear end from a salvage yard, that could be a nice simple and inexpensive solution as well.

[DanNJanice]

rexlion wrote:
What if the limiting factor is the size and strength of the rear end gears used in the 3.08? Perhaps they used smaller diameter, physically less-robust gears in that application. In that case, the primary danger would be breaking those gears. This is the situation with the Toyota Tacoma; the rear end gears used with the 4 cylinder engine are much lighter than those used with the V6, thus the rear end is considered by many to be the weak link in the drive train of the 4-banger Taco for those who try to tow close to its 3500 lb rating.

If this is the situation, then yes it's worth replacing with 3.55 or whatever you decide. Probably not a terribly expensive job if you get them out of a boneyard. And you might have to get them from the boneyard; I know it is getting difficult to find some replacement parts (such as seat belt assembly) for my 2000 Merc Mountaineer.

That would be my thought too, but no way to know for sure, unless the OP finds mechanic that knows about it, or contacts Ford directly.
I think it is highly unlikely that the basic chassis is going to that much different. If an auto maker made that many changes between trim lines on the same model, they would be out of business.

[Grit_dog]

Bionic Man wrote:
It is a 5000 pound trailer. Don't over think it. You are fine.

Lol. You know someone here will reccomend a 3/4 ton before the thread is over!

[Grit_dog]

RoyB wrote:
My OFF-ROAD LOADED POPUP Trailer is right around 4200lbs give or take a few lbs... I think the over-all length of this trailer is 17-feet from hitch to bumper

My savings grace is I have almost ZERO wind load being the trailer is well snuggled behind my truck. Even on US82 between MS and middle Arkansas where you meet really high probably way overloaded Georgia Pacific log trucks going 70MPH meeting you on two lane roadways. I have actually lost Antennas on my truck my meeting them haha...

My F150 4X4 with 3:73 gears does an excellent job towing this trailer without WDH... I know being a POPUP without any noticeable wind problems from approaching vehicles this is not a really good comparison on what you might expect to see...

Just passing along my experience with my 2010 F150 truck with tow package...

I would go with the higher gearing if it is possible for best power pull and best fuel mileage... I have always picked the 3:73 gearing just for this reason... I monitor my fluids temperatures very close from the system console displays when towing... Never gets into the red zones...

I do notice my transmission shifting is different with the 2010 F150 as it was with my 2004 F150. I shift more climbing what I think are small hills with my 2010 more than it did with the 2004 model when not in tow mode...

Just my thoughts and what works for me with my setup...

Roy Ken

My truck would pull it fine too, but it's about as apples to oranges as your truck is compared to the OPs. But thanks for sharing, sounds like you have an ice truck!

[Grit_dog]

Rovito wrote:
What's the worst case scenario if I pull as is?
I do have a good equalizer and anti sway system.

You don't need any of that stuff to pull a 3k trailer with a F150. It even has the little V8.
Barring anything we don't know about the truck in particular being 15 years old, it will pull your little trailer no problem.
You did not goof up.

[RoyB]

My OFF-ROAD LOADED POPUP Trailer is right around 4200lbs give or take a few lbs... I think the over-all length of this trailer is 17-feet from hitch to bumper

My savings grace is I have almost ZERO wind load being the trailer is well snuggled behind my truck. Even on US82 between MS and middle Arkansas where you meet really high probably way overloaded Georgia Pacific log trucks going 70MPH meeting you on two lane roadways. I have actually lost Antennas on my truck my meeting them haha...

My F150 4X4 with 3:73 gears does an excellent job towing this trailer without WDH... I know being a POPUP without any noticeable wind problems from approaching vehicles this is not a really good comparison on what you might expect to see...

Just passing along my experience with my 2010 F150 truck with tow package...

I would go with the higher gearing if it is possible for best power pull and best fuel mileage... I have always picked the 3:73 gearing just for this reason... I monitor my fluids temperatures very close from the system console displays when towing... Never gets into the red zones...

I do notice my transmission shifting is different with the 2010 F150 as it was with my 2004 F150. I shift more climbing what I think are small hills with my 2010 more than it did with the 2004 model when not in tow mode...

Just my thoughts and what works for me with my setup...

Roy Ken

[Rovito]

OK. Ford spec sheet shows,

With Heavy Duty Trailer Towing
With Super Engine Cooling System
With Standard Transmissn Oil Cooler

[newman_fulltime]

Truck was ordered as a fleet truck like for a parts run truck they paid as little as had to and ordered maximum fuel eff

[Huntindog]

Rovito wrote:
What's the worst case scenario if I pull as is?
I do have a good equalizer and anti sway system.

A transmission failure. I have a friend that had repeat tranny failures on a Dodge/Cummins... Then he had a pinion seal leak. When the mechanic opened up the diff, he found that the gears had been changed from the 4.10s on the placard to 3.08s. He changed them back to stock, and it pulled MUCH better and no more tranny problems.

[ggardne2]

The 3.08 and 3.31 on a 4.6L should both be 8.8" axles (i.e. ring gear diameter is 8.8 inches) and the ratio change is accomplished at the ring 40 ring, 13 pinion tooth count vs. 43 ring 13 pinion tooth count so I do not believe that the axle is the limiter in this case, more than likely the limiting factor is powertrain cooling.

[GWolfe]

If you try it as is I wouldn't even try overdrive, keep it in 3rd or drive to keep the revs up a little bit.

[rexlion]

What if the limiting factor is the size and strength of the rear end gears used in the 3.08? Perhaps they used smaller diameter, physically less-robust gears in that application. In that case, the primary danger would be breaking those gears. This is the situation with the Toyota Tacoma; the rear end gears used with the 4 cylinder engine are much lighter than those used with the V6, thus the rear end is considered by many to be the weak link in the drive train of the 4-banger Taco for those who try to tow close to its 3500 lb rating.

If this is the situation, then yes it's worth replacing with 3.55 or whatever you decide. Probably not a terribly expensive job if you get them out of a boneyard. And you might have to get them from the boneyard; I know it is getting difficult to find some replacement parts (such as seat belt assembly) for my 2000 Merc Mountaineer.

[coolmom42]

ggardne2 wrote:
Changing the axle ratio without understanding what drove the original 2000 lb towing limit will not necessarily increase your towing capacity. There is some component in the original truck build that is impacting your maximum trailer capacity. My educated guess is this particular truck is limited in powertrain cooling capacity (either transmission, engine oil, or radiator) and as a result the towing capacity was limited to 2000 lb. You need to verify what this truck has in terms of transmission coolers, whether it has an engine oil cooler, and the radiator size. Towing a trailer >2000 lb without the proper equipment on the truck could result in overheating of the transmission fluid, engine oil, and/or radiator coolant, particularly when pulling on grades.

I agree.