I would like to have a warmer TC floor... any ideas?

[sleepy]

I am old, my feet get cold... easy.

I’d like to add some “insulation” between the bottom of my TC and the truck bed.

My truck bed has a Linex coating

Would one of those rubber Matt’s work? Would it rust out the bed?

Or should I frame and styrofoam a 1” or 2” sub floor?

Attach to bottom of camper?

All thoughts and ideas appreciated

Sleepy (chet)

[Naio]

For odd shaped areas, closed cell foam camping pads are useful, cheap insulation.

[bighatnohorse]

Air infiltration ought to be examined first. Every breeze and movement of the truck will pour more freezing air into the spaces between the bed and basement.

Insulating sheet stock looks like the easy part. But filling the voids between bed and basement air entry points will be bugging me now.

[sleepy]

Eugarps...

It’s not just a sock or house slipper problem even though I characterized it that way.

After using my laser thermometer to examine my truck camper during these extremely cold January days I was able to identify the real problems.

To start with I want to explain what the truck campers “tub” is... it is area that sits between the walls of the pickup trucks bedand below the wings or overhang just above the sides of the truck bed.

Well, the un insulated tub in my camper measured as much as 30 degrees colder than the insulated walls above them. That’s about 20 inches in height of very cold walls that require a lot of energy to heat and not very well at that.

It turns out that when traveling for weeks or months at a time there are some normal activities that are very uncomfortable... like sitting on the commode... all the way up to your knees are in the cold zone.... Another is coming out of the shower.

The inside of the “tub” is about the size of a large refrigerator lying on its back and feels like that we are standing in it.

Socks are nice... I wear them all the time at home where the walls are insulated... but they come up short here.

And so... my need at this point is to insulate the tub and still have plenty of room to load the truck camper between the wheel wells.

Thanks

Chet

[Eugarps]

Sleepy,

For this old engineer, simple is always better. I wear Acorn Slipper Socks from October through March. The foam between the wool sock and the thin leather sole keeps my feet warm all winter. I had a pair that was wool with fleece lining an rubber soles. I wore those outside and for driving long distances.

Just thinking out loud,

Bill

[sleepy]

Phancy wrote:
I have a 04 Silverado with Linex spray bed liner with a rubber mat sense the truck and camper were new, absolutely no rust. The 1161 rarely comes off the truck and has been garaged when not in use which is not often. As far as insulation with this set up not sure because have always used it this way. When we winter travel I usually put the carpet in, have stayed warm in 0* weather.

I know that some of you wonder if I’m paying attention to your reply’s and suggestions. I definitely am!

Our 1 Ton dually 2003 GMC also has had a Linex bed since new... and yesterday I bought two 4’ x 6’ rubber horse mats to cover the truck bed cross wise.

I was surprised at how heavy the rubber mats are.

Our truck camper also stays loaded 99% of the time...

I’m still looking for the perfect closed cell sheet material to cover the outside of the truck campers tub.

Thanks

[sleepy]

bb_94401 wrote:
You might consider placing an electrical, far infrared radiant carbon thin film under your vinyl floor or carpet. It is 0.017" thick, in widths of 30, 40, 50, 60, 80 and 100 cm. Most common use is under wood floors. Koreans and Europeans use in floors, walls and ceilings. Just remember where it is, so a fasterner or drill doesn't go through it. :E



My plan is to intall it on the part of the wall surfaces and floor under the dinnette. Even though it runs on 120VAC, I figure on using it while I charge my batteries once they are out of the bulk phase of charging. Uses 200 W per meter squared film. Your inverter and battery bank could handle this.

Typical boiler based radiant heat systems inputs use:
105 - 115 F for water temp for wood floors (too high heat causes shrinkage due to drying)
85 - 105 F for tile / contrete floors (conducts heat well)
115 - 135 F for carpet (pad /carpet combination more an insulator)

Goal is to keep finished floor temp < 82 - 85 F. Suggests having thermostats that have temperature sensors that are located on the thin film to limit max temperature of floor as well as one for room temperature. Less regulated systems use lower W/m^2 films. Third generation films have a positive temperature coefficient which use less current when warm and less likely to overheat.

Websites to get an idea:

RexVa - XiCA carbon infared heating film

RexVA - Positive temperature coefficient heating film

Korea Heating EU

Fenix


Lots of Youtube videos showing installation

Carbon Heating Film

Key elements of the installation of infrared heating film

Infrared Underfloor Heating System - Installation


A little for surfing the web will find current suppliers in the US and eBay. Simple systems can even be found at Home Depot (Quiet warmth)

I hope to see your installation... I think it would work with what I think I want.

Thanks

Chet

[sleepy]

deltabravo wrote:
Rigid foam board insulation around the side walls where the camper sits between the wheel wells. That will help.

To wrap the campers base:

I have priced LDPE... Low Density Polyethalene 3/4” thick sheets... expensive but smooth, simi rigid and will not absorb water. You can google it.

I prefer the horse pads under the camper... for the 4’ x 6” x 1” I have found them for $36 each and the same ones for more than $50 each

[bb_94401]

You might consider placing an electrical, far infrared radiant carbon thin film under your vinyl floor or carpet. It is 0.017" thick, in widths of 30, 40, 50, 60, 80 and 100 cm. Most common use is under wood floors. Koreans and Europeans use in floors, walls and ceilings. Just remember where it is, so a fasterner or drill doesn't go through it. :E



My plan is to intall it on the part of the wall surfaces and floor under the dinnette. Even though it runs on 120VAC, I figure on using it while I charge my batteries once they are out of the bulk phase of charging. Uses 200 W per meter squared film. Your inverter and battery bank could handle this.

Typical boiler based radiant heat systems inputs use:
105 - 115 F for water temp for wood floors (too high heat causes shrinkage due to drying)
85 - 105 F for tile / contrete floors (conducts heat well)
115 - 135 F for carpet (pad /carpet combination more an insulator)

Goal is to keep finished floor temp < 82 - 85 F. Suggests having thermostats that have temperature sensors that are located on the thin film to limit max temperature of floor as well as one for room temperature. Less regulated systems use lower W/m^2 films. Third generation films have a positive temperature coefficient which use less current when warm and less likely to overheat.

Websites to get an idea:

RexVa - XiCA carbon infared heating film

RexVA - Positive temperature coefficient heating film

Korea Heating EU

Fenix


Lots of Youtube videos showing installation

Carbon Heating Film

Key elements of the installation of infrared heating film

Infrared Underfloor Heating System - Installation


A little for surfing the web will find current suppliers in the US and eBay. Simple systems can even be found at Home Depot (Quiet warmth)

[dhull]

Mostly on grid so I use my heating pad to sit my feet on. Nothing else works! Need to rip flooring up and lay in a hot water system using tubing like I've seen on "This Old House" then put new flooring down!

[deltabravo]

Rigid foam board insulation around the side walls where the camper sits between the wheel wells. That will help.

[pianotuna]

Available on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=easy+heat+warm+tiles+thermostat&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps...

sleepy wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:
Sleepy..

I was perusing the Menards ad in the Sunday paper when I saw a heat ribbon designed to lay under engineered flooring to warm the floor in say a bathroom. While it was 110 volt, it was low wattage, less than 50 watt so you could run it on an inverter or genny too and it was thermostatically controlled and waterproof.

I may check them out for my floor myself for those chilly mornings.

Your idea is interesting... maybe even wrap up the sides of the area between the wheel wells. I’ll be watching.
I did look at the Menards add and other links on those pages.

Thanks

[sleepy]

Delta bravo

I have the factory wall to wall removable carpet and it helps some.

I borrowed a Raytek laser light non contact thermometer and went all over the base of the camper.

Observation:

The walls of the area between the wheel wells are cold... they aren’t insulated.

The floor on mine apparently has a little dead air space sandwiched that gives it a little help.

I am definitely going to use one of the earlier suggestion as a start... the horse mat. It is 1” thick and 4’ x 6’... using two of them, cross wise and carefully fitted around the wheel wells... double function: insulation and it would keep the camper from sliding in the bed.

Another thought:

Maybe I could add another 4’ x 8’ plywood sheet up and under the campers base... to allow the 110volt AC heating wires as suggested to be sandwiched between solids.... It requires a solid matrix, not the rubber horse mat.

I have got to do something about the base side walls.

Thanks everyone... we can build on all of your idea

[sleepy]

SidecarFlip wrote:
Sleepy..

I was perusing the Menards ad in the Sunday paper when I saw a heat ribbon designed to lay under engineered flooring to warm the floor in say a bathroom. While it was 110 volt, it was low wattage, less than 50 watt so you could run it on an inverter or genny too and it was thermostatically controlled and waterproof.

I may check them out for my floor myself for those chilly mornings.

Your idea is interesting... maybe even wrap up the sides of the area between the wheel wells. I’ll be watching.
I did look at the Menards add and other links on those pages.

Thanks

[bighatnohorse]

deltabravo wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:
Thick throw rugs (or two throw rugs-one on top the other) ... Easy to wash and/or replace too.

Throws rugs were the first upgrade I did in my camper.
Cheap and easy. Washable.

Done.

Or maybe carpet underlayment cut to fit then a sheepskin topper sewn to match by an upholstery company.
Couple that with some of the supplemental heating methods suggested above and you might never want to come out of the camper again.

[deltabravo]

Lwiddis wrote:
Thick throw rugs (or two throw rugs-one on top the other) ... Easy to wash and/or replace too.

Throws rugs were the first upgrade I did in my camper.
Cheap and easy. Washable.

Done.