Has anyone installed the Ram 5th wheel prep kit part# 82213980AB in their 2014 or newer Ram 2500? We're about to purchase a 5th wheel and I want to use this for my attachment points in the bed. My truck didn't come with the kit pre-installed so I'm going to tackle this myself. I've seen on other forums the kit comes with good instructions, but I'd like to see a video just to make sure I'm comfortable with it.Thanks,KJ

LIKE2BUILD wrote:Has anyone installed the Ram 5th wheel prep kit part# 82213980AB in their 2014 or newer Ram 2500? We're about to purchase a 5th wheel and I want to use this for my attachment points in the bed. My truck didn't come with the kit pre-installed so I'm going to tackle this myself. I've seen on other forums the kit comes with good instructions, but I'd like to see a video just to make sure I'm comfortable with it.Thanks,KJI did it last fall. Took about 4-4.5 hours working by myself, including the electrical outlet in the bed. The OEM bed bolts were really hard to remove do to the locking stuff they used. Two people would be able to do it much quicker. You have to remove the bed bolts and one side and loosen them on the other side, then jack the bed up on one side as a time to place the pucks into the mounts that are on all the frames. I used a board from a trolley floor jack to raise the bed. My SB has three mounting bolts on each side. Drilling the big holes in the bed is scary. I had to order the hole saw, as it is not a size that the box stores stock.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E8FP6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I drilled the first pilot hole and then use a bent piece of wire to check the calibration of the location, and made a slight adjustment of the three other locations based on that finding.PM me if you want I will give you my phone number to talk. I did not install the gooseneck hitch.I really like my B&W hitch. The latch mechanism is the best there is available.Chris

Perfect information. Thanks so much.Your install looks extremely clean and that's the appearance that I want. The 5er we're buying is coming with the hitch that uses standard bolt-down rails in the bed. Call me crazy, but I just really don't want anything permanent in the bed. I want it completely clear so if I carry a load of wood, plywood, drywall....whatever....I don't have to goof around with the rails being in the way.I went back and forth with installing a B&W turnover ball then using a Companion hitch. That's a pretty nice deal but by the time I bought that whole setup I'd be over $1300 into the project. I'm getting the factory fifth wheel prep, wiring kit, and Reese picture frame adapter for under $700. Since I'm getting the hitch for free that puts me way ahead on $$$$$.I guess the final straw in going this route is having 4 points of locking contact for the hitch compared to 1 for the B&W setup. Yes, I know the Companion spreads the weight across bed and it is a very well engineered system, but I do like the idea of having hitch locked directly into the frame rails. Another nice thing is picture frame adapter makes it versatile and if I want to upgrade 5er hitches it's just simple plug and play without any other mods.KJ

I dont have a video but did install mine on a 2014. The tricky or worse part is cutting the holes. First you have to loosen the box bolts and slip the pucks in between the brackets. They provide a template for the hole placement but I wasn't comfortable with using a hole saw having to take one try at it and being dead on. The template got me in the ballpark and I then drilled several small holes and used a die grinder to clean it up and keep it on center. I did try to use a smaller hole saw at first thinking it would give me room to clean up the hole if it was a little off center but it didn't want to cut that steel very well. As you get the pucks in and look at the template you will see what I mean.When you attempt to drop the picture frame into place the "key" shape pins on the picture frame may not want to drop into place in the pucks. At that point you may loosen the pucks a little and re tighten. You may also have to clean up the edges of the pins a little to get them to drop in. It's all sort of crude and not a precision set up yet it can be a little touchy to get them to drop into place at first. You wont need to grind a great deal off of them, you are just going to finesse them a little. Try the puck on the pin before you install anything just to see what I mean.When the picture frame is in place you can then see how the engagement of each pin/puck feels and adjust as needed. You may need to pull the cotter pins and adjust the depth of engagement for each pin with the large nut adjuster. I adjusted it so there was no up down movement of the picture frame. While I was doing that I used anti seize on everything so it wasn't a nightmare to work with it years later. It's not real high tech but cutting the holes is the important part. You have leeway in it because of the plastic insert so it's not like you will ruin everything. Look at the plastic inserts and picture the tolerance you need to stay within. This isn't part of the install but I also shortened my arms so I could lift the whole unit out at one time while hanging on the FW pin. As it is designed you will need to pull the 4 pins and clips to first remove the upper portion of the hitch. When the upper portion has been removed it then allows room for the 4 arms to swing inward 90 degrees releasing the picture frame. I cut my arms short enough so that they can swing in 90 degrees and allow the picture frame and all to come out at one time. I have drilled, tapped and bolted the end of each arm when in the engaged position. Those that want to get all excited about the warranty just relax. It's not a space ship. Filing and cleaning up the ends of the pins isn't going to allow them to release and shoot the whole works in the air and wipe out three states and all their inhabitants either.

LIKE2BUILD wrote:Perfect information. Thanks so much.Your install looks extremely clean and that's the appearance that I want. The 5er we're buying is coming with the hitch that uses standard bolt-down rails in the bed. Call me crazy, but I just really don't want anything permanent in the bed. I want it completely clear so if I carry a load of wood, plywood, drywall....whatever....I don't have to goof around with the rails being in the way.I went back and forth with installing a B&W turnover ball then using a Companion hitch. That's a pretty nice deal but by the time I bought that whole setup I'd be over $1300 into the project. I'm getting the factory fifth wheel prep, wiring kit, and Reese picture frame adapter for under $700. Since I'm getting the hitch for free that puts me way ahead on $$$$$.I guess the final straw in going this route is having 4 points of locking contact for the hitch compared to 1 for the B&W setup. Yes, I know the Companion spreads the weight across bed and it is a very well engineered system, but I do like the idea of having hitch locked directly into the frame rails. Another nice thing is picture frame adapter makes it versatile and if I want to upgrade 5er hitches it's just simple plug and play without any other mods.KJIf you have not yet purchase the Reese PF, STOP and look at the Demco 6099 frame. It can be release without first removing the hitch. I pick my whole hitch/picture frame as a single unit.ORRRRRRrrr save the picture frame money, sell the free hitch and get a B&W RVK3600. You will not be sorry on doing that, I guarantee you will not be sorry if you go this route!!!!!Chris

rjxj wrote:This isn't part of the install but I also shortened my arms so I could lift the whole unit out at one time while hanging on the FW pin. As it is designed you will need to pull the 4 pins and clips to first remove the upper portion of the hitch. When the upper portion has been removed it then allows room for the 4 arms to swing inward 90 degrees releasing the picture frame. I cut my arms short enough so that they can swing in 90 degrees and allow the picture frame and all to come out at one time. I have drilled, tapped and bolted the end of each arm when in the engaged position. Those that want to get all excited about the warranty just relax. It's not a space ship. Filing and cleaning up the ends of the pins isn't going to allow them to release and shoot the whole works in the air and wipe out three states and all their inhabitants either.Thanks for the info. I was thinking about doing something similar to the locking arms. My thought was to cut them short enough to to rotate out and clear the wheel wells. Then I was going to tack weld tabs on the locking arms and picture frame that I can lock together with the pins.KJ

Installing Ram 5th wheel prep | Good Sam Community

transamz9
Explorer
Aug 09, 2016
LIKE2BUILD wrote:
I got the puck system installed this weekend and assembled the hitch.

Observations on the puck installation:
1) The bed DOES NOT need to be lifted to install the pucks. There was ample room between the frame and bed to slide in the pucks and attach them to the frame.
2) Locations for the 3 1/2" holes was a little sketchy. The instructions say to "measure 26 1/4" from the end of the bed support ribs". These ribs taper a good bit at the end so it felt a bit like a guessing game. I measured exactly from that point and all of my holes ended up 1/4" too far forward. I used a die grinder to lengthen the holes so the trim rings would fit.
****In hindsight, I should have drilled the pilot hole for the 2 front pucks then checked for centering. That might have helped, but it's tough to get a good line of sight from underneath.
**** I wish Ram would have chosen the back edge of the bed as the measuring point instead of the ribs. That would have been a better define place to use as a starting point.

Observations on the Hitch:
--- It seems pretty well constructed and assembly was a snap.

--- The Curt Q20 with dual jaw design seems similar to the B&W hitch head design. I know the B&W is well made, but the $300 difference is a little tough to swallow. The Curt head is cushioned and tilts front/rear and side-to-side. I think it covers most design features of the 'better' hitches in the industry. Of course there's air ride and all kinds of other high end systems, but I think the Curt will be worlds better than the RBW.

KJ

The only this that I would give to the B&W is less moving parts to get sloppy and worn and the big thing for me is the lock and release of the king pin is effortless and simple but well designed. There have been times with other hitches that I have had I would have given someone $500 to get my hitch unhooked. Since I've had the B&W my wife can hook and unhook.Otherwise I believe you have chosen a great hitch so enjoy and go camping.;)
MFL
Nomad II
Aug 09, 2016
LIKE2BUILD wrote:
I got the puck system installed this weekend and assembled the hitch.

Observations on the puck installation:
1) The bed DOES NOT need to be lifted to install the pucks. There was ample room between the frame and bed to slide in the pucks and attach them to the frame.
2) Locations for the 3 1/2" holes was a little sketchy. The instructions say to "measure 26 1/4" from the end of the bed support ribs". These ribs taper a good bit at the end so it felt a bit like a guessing game. I measured exactly from that point and all of my holes ended up 1/4" too far forward. I used a die grinder to lengthen the holes so the trim rings would fit.
****In hindsight, I should have drilled the pilot hole for the 2 front pucks then checked for centering. That might have helped, but it's tough to get a good line of sight from underneath.
**** I wish Ram would have chosen the back edge of the bed as the measuring point instead of the ribs. That would have been a better define place to use as a starting point.

Observations on the Hitch:
--- It seems pretty well constructed and assembly was a snap.

--- The Curt Q20 with dual jaw design seems similar to the B&W hitch head design. I know the B&W is well made, but the $300 difference is a little tough to swallow. The Curt head is cushioned and tilts front/rear and side-to-side. I think it covers most design features of the 'better' hitches in the industry. Of course there's air ride and all kinds of other high end systems, but I think the Curt will be worlds better than the RBW.

KJ

Thanks for the update! Congrats on doing the install yourself! I have no experience with the Curt hitch, but seems many are happy with them. In any case, your finished setup is worlds above your original plan.

Happy towing,
Jerry
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Aug 09, 2016
"Curt will be worlds better than the RBW" I would agree with that for sure! But there is NO comparison to the B&W. The $300 would have been money well spent. IMHO

But if you are happy that is all that matters!
Me_Again
Explorer III
Aug 08, 2016
Well it seems the 2500 puck system difference allows the installation without lifting the bed. My 2015 3500 required lifting the bed. Chris
LIKE2BUILD
Explorer
Aug 08, 2016
I got the puck system installed this weekend and assembled the hitch.

Observations on the puck installation:
1) The bed DOES NOT need to be lifted to install the pucks. There was ample room between the frame and bed to slide in the pucks and attach them to the frame.
2) Locations for the 3 1/2" holes was a little sketchy. The instructions say to "measure 26 1/4" from the end of the bed support ribs". These ribs taper a good bit at the end so it felt a bit like a guessing game. I measured exactly from that point and all of my holes ended up 1/4" too far forward. I used a die grinder to lengthen the holes so the trim rings would fit.
****In hindsight, I should have drilled the pilot hole for the 2 front pucks then checked for centering. That might have helped, but it's tough to get a good line of sight from underneath.
**** I wish Ram would have chosen the back edge of the bed as the measuring point instead of the ribs. That would have been a better define place to use as a starting point.

Observations on the Hitch:
--- It seems pretty well constructed and assembly was a snap.

--- The Curt Q20 with dual jaw design seems similar to the B&W hitch head design. I know the B&W is well made, but the $300 difference is a little tough to swallow. The Curt head is cushioned and tilts front/rear and side-to-side. I think it covers most design features of the 'better' hitches in the industry. Of course there's air ride and all kinds of other high end systems, but I think the Curt will be worlds better than the RBW.

KJ
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jul 31, 2016
Brisk wrote:
I have to agree with the B&W guys since I am one myself. That is THE hitch to buy PERIOD. I totally understand the cost factor but you will HATE towing your 5er when it clunks every time you start and stop. Sell something if you have too, but BUY THE B&W HITCH!!!!!

I think you just earned one free year in the B&W Fanboy Club!!!
Brisk
Explorer II
Jul 31, 2016
I have to agree with the B&W guys since I am one myself. That is THE hitch to buy PERIOD. I totally understand the cost factor but you will HATE towing your 5er when it clunks every time you start and stop. Sell something if you have too, but BUY THE B&W HITCH!!!!!
Me_Again
Explorer III
Jul 29, 2016
So Troy you can install a 270 hitch assemble with one arm/hand, right?
FishOnOne
Nomad
Jul 29, 2016
Me Again wrote:
LIKE2BUILD wrote:
Perfect information. Thanks so much.

Your install looks extremely clean and that's the appearance that I want. The 5er we're buying is coming with the hitch that uses standard bolt-down rails in the bed. Call me crazy, but I just really don't want anything permanent in the bed. I want it completely clear so if I carry a load of wood, plywood, drywall....whatever....I don't have to goof around with the rails being in the way.

I went back and forth with installing a B&W turnover ball then using a Companion hitch. That's a pretty nice deal but by the time I bought that whole setup I'd be over $1300 into the project. I'm getting the factory fifth wheel prep, wiring kit, and Reese picture frame adapter for under $700. Since I'm getting the hitch for free that puts me way ahead on $$$$$.

I guess the final straw in going this route is having 4 points of locking contact for the hitch compared to 1 for the B&W setup. Yes, I know the Companion spreads the weight across bed and it is a very well engineered system, but I do like the idea of having hitch locked directly into the frame rails. Another nice thing is picture frame adapter makes it versatile and if I want to upgrade 5er hitches it's just simple plug and play without any other mods.

KJ

If you have not yet purchase the Reese PF, STOP and look at the Demco 6099 frame. It can be release without first removing the hitch. I pick my whole hitch/picture frame as a single unit.

ORRRRRRrrr save the picture frame money, sell the free hitch and get a B&W RVK3600. You will not be sorry on doing that, I guarantee you will not be sorry if you go this route!!!!!

Chris

That looks like some Rube Goldberg engineering.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jul 27, 2016
LIKE2BUILD wrote:
Okay, this is really funny. The Ram 20K Hitch

....looks pretty much identical to the Curt 20K 5er hitch.

KJ

They are the same, BOTH Made in China and not simple to hitch. I have hitched an inlays twice and not simple as it should be.