It's Been a Long Wait...

I have wanted a slide-in for years, even before moving to the land of slide-ins (Idaho). The truck I presently own was bought with evil intentions back in 2011. I told my wife that it was for pulling our boat, but I had an ulterior motive. The siren song of slide-in adventure was pulling at me, even then. So I lurked in the shadows of this forum, ever anticipating the day when I could announce my triumphant coming of age in the world of truck camperdom.

After our move to Idaho, which necessitated the liquidation of the boat, I began to plot and scheme. Waiting for our finances to recover from a cross-country move took a few years, but we are finally ready to take the plunge. So the questions and choices become the next phase:

1) Is this the right camper?
2) Do we have enough truck?
3) Can we tow our tiny 1000 lb. utility trailer behind it with the camper loaded?

Data:

Wolf Creek 840 camper for long bed. We have looked at campers, used and new, for the last couple years and have finally settled on this one. No slides and good quality are non-negotiable. Would love a Northern Lite but too pricey. A few others have appeal, but we like the mid bath arrangement.

Ford F350 SRW Diesel 4x4 King Ranch Crewcab 8 foot bed
Curb weight about 7000 lbs, max payload 4300 lbs., max GVWR 11.5k, max GCWR 23.5k. Love my truck, don't want to change.

Tires 275/70R18E - 3640 lb. rating, factory wheels.

The truck came with a camper pkg. equipped. Now for a bit of a puzzle -- In the glove box of the truck I encountered a one-page info sheet from the factory that quotes a recommended max truck camper payload of 2950 lbs. I figure the Wolf Creek fully loaded is going to be at least that, if not a few hundred more. Am I crazy to think it will handle the WC840? I have put enough weight in this truck (firewood) to actually deform the bed floor a bit, and it drove like a Cadillac. I expect no real problems BUT

What says the brain trust? Punt or go buy the camper? Will I need stable loads or other mods? I guess I should insist on loading the sucker on the truck before I sign, eh? This is the point at which the souls of mere mortal men are tested.

Truck Campers

towpro
Explorer
Mar 29, 2016
If you want to know for sure, put it on a cat scale and see what the front and back weigh. (weigh truck with 1 scale line between front and back.
I think your truck weighs more than 7000 lbs, but still, my 2006 Ram 2wd had 3295 lb tires on it, and with the Wolf creek and 7x14 motorcycle trailer hooked up I was at the rear tire weight. But my GVWR was 9900 lbs which I was over. it came with a camper letter talking about around 1900 lbs.
dave17352
Explorer
Mar 29, 2016
My TC loaded and wet is right at 4k. It is right at the trucks payload rating. Probably my truck camper rating ddodad is right where is yours is. I do use stable loads quick connects but I had used the camper without them for sometime with no problems. The stable loads did give me just the bump I wanted in support to get rid of most of the sway issues. The nice thing about them is you can engage them just when the TC is on. I think you will probable be heavier than 3k loaded, they usually fudge those numbers down. I also tow a 3500 pound boat behind my truck with a 30 inch extension. No problems. Towing the boat is when the quick connects really paid off. My 4k number includes the tongue weight of my boat trailer. I know I got a little disjointed in writing this but I kept coming up with more things to say!!!:)
trail-explorer
Explorer
Mar 29, 2016
Another option would be an AF811. I scanned CL and found this one: AF811

Where in Idaho are you located?
Vinsil
Explorer
Mar 29, 2016
Your truck will work. Might need some upgrades like some stableloads. Roll across the scales once you have it loaded for camping to check to see if your tires will work: in my case I needed 19.5's.

Good luck, we love ours!
jimh406
Explorer III
Mar 29, 2016
It sounds like you need to look at used TCs especially if you are interested in a Northern Lite. Don't be afraid of used RVs as long as you inspect them and do research. Most RVs are barely used each year.

I carried my Host 9 1/2 Double Slide camper in my signature on a 2006 F350 4x4 PSD. It worked, but it all depends on how solid you want your TC to be, and more importantly, how much weight you want to carry. The problem with being marginal is that carrying water, having full holding tanks, etc makes a big difference, and more of a difference than a light trailer.

Without mods, your rear will definitely be low vs modified. Before making any changes to that SRW, I carried my TC to Montana and back. It did ok. Do make sure your rear tires are at their maximum 80 lbs.
noteven
Explorer III
Mar 29, 2016
Agree with jimh425 - we have always bought top line rv's gently used vs the latest new junk offering at the same budget level... people that can afford expensive campers new often look after them while they own them too...

We run an old 06 Dodge 3500 SRW. We haul camper and trailer, or 5th wheel toyhauler or gooseneck stock and flatbeds at around 7000lbs rear axle weight fairly often. It handled the weight fine with the stock suspension (same spring part no. as the same year DRW) and since has that has been modified with a 12000lbs rear air suspension(same as DRW) and 18in tires. It handles weight better with better braking and sway control without any "squatting" but it was ok with the OEM equipment too.
Bedlam
Moderator
Mar 29, 2016
Up to around 7000 lbs on the rear axle will need little except Torklift StableLoads with your current setup. If you want to go heavier and keep this truck, you need to look at adding airbags, heavier shocks and 19.5" wheels. If you think your combination will approach 9000 lbs on the rear axle, you need a bigger truck and may even want to consider a Class 4 or larger.
lonegunman
Explorer
Mar 29, 2016
I have a 2011 F-250 4x4 crew cab, diesel, short box with heavy duty and camper package and carry an Arctic Fox 865. It is the only thing AF makes without a slide. It is very similar to a Wolf Creek 840 in size. You might need to add stable loads or airbags. The Sterling rear axel on your truck is rated over 10,000lbs, the tires and springs are rated lower.

Yes, it works with zero problems and yes you can tow a small trailer. Yes you will be bumping up on max GVWR and you will be well under your combined weight. Thousands upon thousands of truck campers drive down the road safely without dual wheels or 19.5's.

Have them load it on the truck so you can see the size of the thing. Most people do not realize how tall and wide it will be once loaded. You will probably need to do a couple of mods to address sway and sag.

The best thing I did while looking was run into a guy with a truck camper and look at his truck, in person. The internet is full of horror and terror stories that they heard on the internet.
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Mar 29, 2016
My 03 F350 Crew Cab 6.0 diesel 4x4 longbed SRW scaled at close to 8000. My TC weighed at over 4k. I ran 19.5s wheels and tires, stable loads and airbags and towed a 7000 pound horse trailer. It can be done. but not with stock wheels and tires.
DWeikert
Explorer II
Mar 29, 2016
Ranger Tim wrote:
In the glove box of the truck I encountered a one-page info sheet from the factory that quotes a recommended max truck camper payload of 2950 lbs.

As I recall this sticker assumes a 150lb person sitting in every seat. If you're normally going to be driving with an empty back seat, add 450lbs to that 2950, bringing you to 3400 lbs. If you're within a few hundred pounds of this, you'll be okay.

If you're normally driving with all seats filled, you're going to want a bigger camper. :)