Jack leg help - Happi jac

[tiptoptune]

left rear leg on my 2000 Bigfoot TC with happi jacs will not go down. It does work if i switch the wires at the logic board controller to another location. So the wiring to the leg is good. Spiral cord ohms out. so has to be the hand push button control or the main logic board controller.

Any ideas how to tell which is bad?
Any electric geeks out there want to compare my test to theirs? measured volts at cord connector on the logic board controller with cord disconnected and connector facing me, starting from the left, first 4 pins had 0.9 volts, 5th pin has 5 volts, 6 & 7 have 0 volts, 8th pin has 5 volts. Have the same readings at the cord that plugs into the hand control. I used a back probe thin wire end on my test leads to touch one pin at a time.

Thanks for any help.

[wnjj]

tiptoptune wrote:

wnjj wrote:
If the jack doesn’t work by itself or with the “all” buttons I’d say the issue is in the controller board and not with the keypad. The coiled phone cord sends codes down to the controller so very unlikely to just fail one jack. Also if the other 3 run when pressing the all up/down buttons that means the controller keypad is working and the issue is local to the controller board for that one jack output.

If it were mine, I’d open the control box and see if it’s something cheap like the $8 relay on my fridge’s control board.

Thanks wnjj. all function except left rear leg down with the all button. anyone any help how to test the board relays? i can hear relays click for other functions. Going to try to test some later today. happi Jac no longer makes parts for this vintage. $500 to convert to wireless which is only option they have. i tried and tried to get tech support on how to test the board to see if a single component could be replaced. they do not provide that info.

Sorry, somehow I missed this reply all this time ago. I'm not surprised that nobody would provide support for the board itself as some much these days is "not user serviceable."

If you are still interested in a non-workaround fix, a picture of the inside of the box would help. I suspect there are a bank of relays on that board and the one for that one jack, one direction is bad. You would just need to find someone who can solder to replace it.

[tiptoptune]

ended up installing a double pole double throw toggle switch in the wires near the leg motor to get it to reverse. Switch the toggle, press same button on wired controller and off the truck so could load the new camper. Sharing to help others if need. Thanks everyone for the input.

[tiptoptune]

Still on a quest to fix this without buying a whole wireless kit. The used one from member was not correct, remote plug was too small.
Anyone know if a Lipert 723914 will work with my older wired remote? a couple are on ebay and pic shows it has a remote plug in, and one place says wired remote compatible. I need plug in the size of a cat 5 ethernet cable, larger than a phone plug. If you remember what that is.

Happi Jac told me the wireless control board will not work. But if it has a remote plug in, i question that.

[ajriding]

I'm not advertising, but I do have a Hippajack board.
It came with my TC but seller did not have the remote, nor motors, so I bought a new everything.
I can't remember if this board works or not. Maybe I never tested it, or maybe I used it then later replaced with the new board.
Maybe it would be easy to test.
I bought the camper without motors, so had to crank by hand. I guess the motors I bought came with a new board so thats how I ended up with a new board.
It operates on wired for sure. The wired uses a phone cord as the wire. I do not know about wireless as there is no antenna wire like the new ones have.
My new one had the phone jack and also was wireless. The controller could do both.
The old one is in a box and to me is worth less than what you are talking about having to spend... just saying.
Etrailer dot com sells these.
There are no control buttons on the motherboard, so no way to test it without the remote or to jump the phone jack wires and I do not know what terminal to jump to test it, or if is using a switched signal or computer gibberish signal.
That's my entire story. Hope you enjoyed.

[ticki2]

You might try checking for circuit board repair near you . There are a number of places that test and repair all types of printed circuits .

[tiptoptune]

wnjj wrote:
If the jack doesn’t work by itself or with the “all” buttons I’d say the issue is in the controller board and not with the keypad. The coiled phone cord sends codes down to the controller so very unlikely to just fail one jack. Also if the other 3 run when pressing the all up/down buttons that means the controller keypad is working and the issue is local to the controller board for that one jack output.

If it were mine, I’d open the control box and see if it’s something cheap like the $8 relay on my fridge’s control board.

Thanks wnjj. all function except left rear leg down with the all button. anyone any help how to test the board relays? i can hear relays click for other functions. Going to try to test some later today. happi Jac no longer makes parts for this vintage. $500 to convert to wireless which is only option they have. i tried and tried to get tech support on how to test the board to see if a single component could be replaced. they do not provide that info.

[wnjj]

If the jack doesn’t work by itself or with the “all” buttons I’d say the issue is in the controller board and not with the keypad. The coiled phone cord sends codes down to the controller so very unlikely to just fail one jack. Also if the other 3 run when pressing the all up/down buttons that means the controller keypad is working and the issue is local to the controller board for that one jack output.

If it were mine, I’d open the control box and see if it’s something cheap like the $8 relay on my fridge’s control board.

[tiptoptune]

oops. wizards it is. sorry all.
Board has two fuses, both good. Parts are expensive, or i getting cheap. maybe both. We may be selling this TC and truck this winter or spring once find a class c that fits us so not wanting to spend a lot. $500 or something for main board and hand control, $250 for board alone, $150 for control. Too much. So i am trying to determine which is bad. i did read to cycle the power to the board. going to try that and call happi jac to see if they can give me any testing specs. anyone want to by a three legged camper 🙂

[JimK-NY]

Yes, check the fuses. My control board has at least two.

[joerg68]

Your analysis re. controller or main board sounds logical.
Does the main board have fuses that you can check?
Is there a way you could swap controllers with someone else for testing?

[rhodedog98]

I would have called them Wizards not geeks!!!