Forum Discussion
myredracer
Jan 18, 2019Explorer II
Specs say that trailer is almost 35' long with a 8800 lb GVWR and listed cargo capacity of 1900 lbs. Always ignore factory dry weights. Optional items you order can reduce a TT's payload/CCC capacity. I would weigh it when you first pick it up and again after it is fully loaded for camping. At an average TW of 12-13%, you could be looking at around 1100 lbs of actual TW and possibly even a bit more. One or more full holding tanks can add a lot of wt. too.
If you haven't, since you are pushing the limits of the F150, if not exceeding them, I would take it to a scale with just driver and see how the actual payload capacity compares to the sticker and also again when it's fully loaded for camping. Our F250 for ex. has a substantially lower payload capacity than the door pillar sticker. Anything you've added to the truck like say a cap/canopy will reduce payload cap. How much will passengers + pets + camping stuff in bed weigh ? Perhaps 800 - 1000 lbs? Perhaps higher? Then you can easily be well over the TV's payload capacity when hooked up to the TT. Besides payload capacity, there's also braking and handling of a TV to consider.
It's not a good idea to use a Pro Pride (or Hensley) WDH to address an under-sized TV or to hide sway issues. You still need to deal with all the things that contribute to sway such as tire pressures on TV & TT, tire type on TV, ensuring TT is level (to slightly nose down), etc. before heading out on the road. I would check the load capacity rating on the TT tires. I've seen Keystone TTs with almost no reserve load capacity. You want at least 15%, and more is better which will help reduce the risk of a blowout. You might benefit from the next load range higher. Also, what brand tires on it?
I predict it won't take long before you realize the TV isn't enough. Unless you are just doing short local trips. Long distance trips and/or hilly terrain will not be fun. Not trying to be pessimistic, just realistic based on experience.
Anyway, on things to get in addition to what's mentioned by others: If planning to travel around to numerous CGS, especially older ones, get a Progressive Industries EMS. An autoformer can be a good idea in the summertime when voltage in CGs take a dive which can damage AC units. Make sure to have a 50-30 amp adapter because there are lots of CGs with few 50 amp sites, and some older ones with none. A voltmeter is very useful and a permanent one inside is best.
Good water filtration may help (and not those next to useless inline exterior cartridges with high micron ratings). That looong a TT may bounce a lot when set up on a site and you may want some stacker jacks and also stabilizer struts. Extra lengths of sewer and water hose are a good idea to have on hand and sometimes even a shore power extension cord (could use a 30 amp). A clear sewer elbow helps. Make sure to have at least some basic tools, jack & lug wrench and level for setting up the TT on a site. A GPS is helpful on longer trips along with paper maps. Don't forget the easy to forget stuff like coffee mugs, toothbrushes and the like... :R
If you haven't, since you are pushing the limits of the F150, if not exceeding them, I would take it to a scale with just driver and see how the actual payload capacity compares to the sticker and also again when it's fully loaded for camping. Our F250 for ex. has a substantially lower payload capacity than the door pillar sticker. Anything you've added to the truck like say a cap/canopy will reduce payload cap. How much will passengers + pets + camping stuff in bed weigh ? Perhaps 800 - 1000 lbs? Perhaps higher? Then you can easily be well over the TV's payload capacity when hooked up to the TT. Besides payload capacity, there's also braking and handling of a TV to consider.
It's not a good idea to use a Pro Pride (or Hensley) WDH to address an under-sized TV or to hide sway issues. You still need to deal with all the things that contribute to sway such as tire pressures on TV & TT, tire type on TV, ensuring TT is level (to slightly nose down), etc. before heading out on the road. I would check the load capacity rating on the TT tires. I've seen Keystone TTs with almost no reserve load capacity. You want at least 15%, and more is better which will help reduce the risk of a blowout. You might benefit from the next load range higher. Also, what brand tires on it?
I predict it won't take long before you realize the TV isn't enough. Unless you are just doing short local trips. Long distance trips and/or hilly terrain will not be fun. Not trying to be pessimistic, just realistic based on experience.
Anyway, on things to get in addition to what's mentioned by others: If planning to travel around to numerous CGS, especially older ones, get a Progressive Industries EMS. An autoformer can be a good idea in the summertime when voltage in CGs take a dive which can damage AC units. Make sure to have a 50-30 amp adapter because there are lots of CGs with few 50 amp sites, and some older ones with none. A voltmeter is very useful and a permanent one inside is best.
Good water filtration may help (and not those next to useless inline exterior cartridges with high micron ratings). That looong a TT may bounce a lot when set up on a site and you may want some stacker jacks and also stabilizer struts. Extra lengths of sewer and water hose are a good idea to have on hand and sometimes even a shore power extension cord (could use a 30 amp). A clear sewer elbow helps. Make sure to have at least some basic tools, jack & lug wrench and level for setting up the TT on a site. A GPS is helpful on longer trips along with paper maps. Don't forget the easy to forget stuff like coffee mugs, toothbrushes and the like... :R
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