Lance 3000 8-6 Leaky Tanks!

Oh ok then... I used to work on electronics and the semi circle with a flat side is a common shaft... wondering if I can just find some other way with some other knob and just mark it up to know where gas, on/off etc are in the circle... I have not found them less that just under 20 bucks and that's quite a lot for such a simple item..

I too had a problem with my fridge knob "socket" breaking. Bought new ones and after a while had the same problem. Me thinks they don't make them very strong. :) You might want to buy more than one.

thanks Tom.. saw them on line for 17 bucks... I'll be working on the fridge next...

I have a 97 3000.
Get a replacement knob for refrigerator. They are cheap.
That's what I did.

Tom

Udates on my 3 seperate issues: I found the fresh tank leak and the gray tank leak and the fridge control knob on the left side turns independently of the actual shaft. On the fridge issue, I'm still addressing the leaks but did ask at local RV store and they said I might try placing toothpicks in the female area of the knob in order to "shim" the shaft. Have not tried that yet but will update..

The fresh tank leak is actually stupidly simple and I'm amazed that I didn't find it way back while full time. I removed both 6" square metal access panels below the front of the box and both the drain elbow in the passenger side and the fill elbow on the drivers side look solid and show no signs of leaks. I then removed the drain valve at the right side rear of the camper and there it was! I found what appeared to be electrical tape around the male stepped insert on the back side of the valve and that oddly, the long poly pipe that runs the length of the floor was not quite long enough to attach firmly to the drain valve shaft. That was where the tank was leaking out on to my trucks rear bumper... I have not yet addressed this problem but am considering running a new full length of poly pipe or fabricating a short piece of pipe with small hose clamps to lengthen the run so that the valve attaches properly.
As for the gray tank leak, I removed the drivers side rear panel of the box and found that the outflow pipe was badly cracked. When I added water to the gray tank it started "pissing" on me and revealed the extent of the failure.







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Here are some shots of the fresh tank outflow pipe repair...

Hi guys and thanks for the great responses.. I saw the two small square panels but have actually yet to get started on the inspection.. also, tanks were never frozen so anticipate connection leaks of some sort.. will update with pics when I get started checking it outl..

On my 185,which is probably plumbed similar , the part of the grey tank that narrows to the 1 1/2" drain had a crack in it . A bit of epoxy and that tape that you stretch and it seals on itself worked for my leak. I had to take off the galvinized sheet metal covering the plumbing on the rear drivers side to access it.
As for the fresh tank , there should be a 6 x 6" sheet metal cover on each side at the front bottom ,one for the pump intake and one for the drain. Unscrew them... Could be the hose is just cracked.

I believe you can remove the bottom panels to get access. Then, you can find out the tanks or lines are busted/ leaking. Unless the tanks were really full and froze, they are probably ok.