Forum Discussion

mhudson's avatar
mhudson
Explorer
Oct 10, 2015

Leak Proof External Vertical Corners of Trailer

My trailer is a 2005 Fleetwood. With winter rains coming soon I am concerned with possible water leaks at the vertical corners of the trailer where the siding comes together.

The existing sealing compound between the siding and the corner moulding is cracked and looks like it might need replacing. If the corner molding has to be removed to replace the sealing compound,the rubber coating that seals the roof would have to be cut back at the roof level. That looks like a pain.

Is there any recommendation on time intervals the sealing compound should be replaced? Any ideas?
  • I use pro-flex for my vertical seams and it works great. I'd recommend checking all sealant at least annually as it's easier than fixing a leak.
  • oasisbob wrote:
    some caulk boasts 15 or more year life


    x2, I noticed that too. The same with those cheap handheld 2 way radios transmitting 37 miles. :h
  • I use Dicor non leveling lap sealant. I scrape any old sealer that I can that is above the seam, and try to remove any that is loose. Apply the Dicor with a calk gun. On large areas I usually use masking tape on both sides, apply the Dicor, smooth with my finger, then remove the tape. The only trouble I have with this method is the sealer is very stringy when removing the tape. In my experience, the stringy stuff is removed after it dries.
  • Best stuff to use is probably proflex RV, but its messy. Use paointers tape to mask a mm or so on each sid eof the joint, then apply, peel of the tape and run a moist ifnger downn it after. Eternabond would certainly be a permanent solution, but its unsightly
  • I scrape and replace every two to three years. I also grumble while I am doing it as some caulk boasts 15 or more year life expectancy.I also found covering to be the best of all. I bought a metal canopy to store ine under.
  • Most manufacturers will recommend semi-annual or annual inspection of caulking at seams and openings, with repair or recaulking as indicated by the inspection. How often it needs to be replaced will depend mostly on conditions of exposure.

    I am having a hard time envisioning a need to remove corner moldings to recaulk. Even without removing them, the job can be a pain, it takes a bit of practice to develop the skills for a neat job. Some owners put the matter behind them, permanently they think, by taping (Eternabond is one brand of long-life tape) rather than caulking, and that may or may not involve some disassembly, depending on what you want in the way of appearances for the finished job.

    So far I've done OK with caulking over the old seams, which is what most shops will do.